frozen column tube on 1970s Craftsman radial saw


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Old 08-13-10, 06:27 PM
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frozen column tube on 1970s Craftsman radial saw

hi I recently got a radial arm saw but there's some rust on the vertical column tube, and I can't get the elevation crank to turn (to raise and lower the column), and I can't get the radial arm to rotate at all (it's supposed to be able to rotate about 180 degrees). The best that I can figure is that rust between the column tube and the inside of the column support has 'glued' the column tube to it. The specific Craftsman model is 113.29441, which is a 1970s model.

I've loosened the set screws at the back of the column, and I've been squirting WD-40 where the column tube rises from the support column, for about a week, but it hasn't freed up the column tube at all.

Does anyone have any suggestions about how to dissolve the rust? Or if there's someone who has taken the column and/or elevation crank apart, could you let me know what you think is the best way to take them apart? If you have a saw like this one you know that the column and base parts are very, very heavy.

I have the manual so I could send scans of the exploded views of the column etc. by email.

Thanks.
 
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Old 08-13-10, 08:36 PM
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if you don't get any help here you might try going on Old Wood-Working Machines (OWWM) - Welcome (old wood working machines) and ask there. I'm sure you will get lots of info from those guys.
 
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Old 08-14-10, 05:47 AM
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WD-40 is a water displacement product, not a penetrating lubricant. Buy some PB Blaster and spray around the column as well as on the worm gear and gear box. Work the handle, carefully CW and CCW. It is a weak handle, so don't break it ( I did on my 1973 model). Let the PB work, then after it is freed up, spray white lithium lube on the tube to keep it moving free. I would also address the horizontal carriage with lube while you are at it. Let us know how it goes, and stay with us. We can give just as good advice as some others may.
 
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Old 08-14-10, 06:00 AM
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Parts Diagram

Here is the parts diagram from the Sears website:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=partSearch

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 08-14-10, 07:18 AM
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If you decide its not worth trying to get the column to work there is a recalls for many of them for safety guard issues and yours might be one. The last I checked I could have gotten a 100 bucks back for mine but I decided it was worth more to me as a saw.
The new radials come with safety guards that protect your fingers more from side access.
You might check here for info.

Radial Arm Saw Recall
 
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Old 08-15-10, 07:10 AM
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Thanks for the referral

Hi, thanks very much for mentioning the other site to me. I enjoy learning more about keeping older equipment up and running.

Originally Posted by mecabman
if you don't get any help here you might try going on Old Wood-Working Machines (OWWM) - Welcome (old wood working machines) and ask there. I'm sure you will get lots of info from those guys.
 
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Old 08-15-10, 07:39 AM
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Will try PB Blaster; how to access worm gear?

Thanks for your suggestions. I will get some PB Blaster and the lube for when it's all freed up -- hopefully. Could you recommend a good way to get access to worm gear to spray it? Do you think it would be better to loosen the crank's bracket at the base of the support column, or to flip the table over and try from the bottom where the vertical shaft of the crank assembly fits into a retaining plate, according to the schematic. When it comes to taking things apart, I have a knack for doing it the harder way, when left to myself to figure it out.

The idea that I get from what I can see is that some water probably dripped on the column and ran down between the column tube and column support. Overall there isn't much rust visible on the column, but I haven't felt any movement at all, of the column tube in the column support, either horizontal or vertical.

Well, maybe after a week or so of PB Blaster, it will loosen up.

Thanks. I will keep you posted on progress. I'd really like to get this saw going, for things that my table saw can't do as well.


Originally Posted by chandler
WD-40 is a water displacement product, not a penetrating lubricant. Buy some PB Blaster and spray around the column as well as on the worm gear and gear box. Work the handle, carefully CW and CCW. It is a weak handle, so don't break it ( I did on my 1973 model). Let the PB work, then after it is freed up, spray white lithium lube on the tube to keep it moving free. I would also address the horizontal carriage with lube while you are at it. Let us know how it goes, and stay with us. We can give just as good advice as some others may.
 
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Old 08-15-10, 07:44 AM
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Thanks for the parts diagram

Thanks very much for the parts diagram. One thing that's different on my saw are some parts at the top of the column: mine doesn't have the parts 49 to 52; on mine the bolts are inside the column. I'm not sure what difference that makes, if any.

Originally Posted by Wirepuller38
Here is the parts diagram from the Sears website:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...ken=partSearch

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 08-15-10, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for the recall info

I'd heard about the recall but your link gave me the first specific info about it. Like you with yours, I think the saw is worth more to me than the $100, if I can get the column freed up. Thanks.

Originally Posted by idmason60
If you decide its not worth trying to get the column to work there is a recalls for many of them for safety guard issues and yours might be one. The last I checked I could have gotten a 100 bucks back for mine but I decided it was worth more to me as a saw.
The new radials come with safety guards that protect your fingers more from side access.
You might check here for info.

Radial Arm Saw Recall
 
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Old 08-15-10, 12:48 PM
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And the recall only involves the head, not the carriage, so you won't be gaining anything. They ain't gettin' mine for no stinkin' $100.
 
 

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