Advice on current miter saw options


  #1  
Old 05-07-13, 11:20 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Advice on current miter saw options

I am a new homeowner, in the market for my first miter saw (I already have a jigsaw and a circular saw, but no table saw). Some tasks on my to do list over the next two years include:

Install fencing in yard
Install new hardwood floors in several rooms
Build outdoor compost bins
Build shelving, mostly for books

Money is something to consider, but not the governing factor. I could cough up for a 12 inch sliding saw (I would probably get the Dewalt 780, available for about $449 at Lowes, or the Hitachi C12rsh, available at Menards for $399), but for the above tasks it seems like a 10 inch non slider would be adequate (I would probably go with a Dewalt 713 over the Hitachi C10FCE2 because there seem to be more limits to what you can cut on the Hitachi, due to the fence or guard design... though the hitachi can be had for $99 while the Dewalt is $219).

I don't like to get the wrong tool and then have to get another one year later. But I also don't want to buy something I don't need and have it gather dust in the garage... So I thought I'd see what the experts think.

Am I right that less is more in this case? Any advice before I take the plunge on slider/nonslider or hitachi/dewalt?

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
  #2  
Old 05-08-13, 04:58 AM
N
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,743
Received 20 Likes on 18 Posts
I picked up a 10" for some of the tasks you are looking to do.
I had a good buddy of mine (licensed carpenter) mentioned he preferred the 10" blades over the 12" as the 12" can flex a bit.
I also went with the 10" because my table saw was a 10", which means I can switch the blades around between the two depending on what I am cutting.
 
  #3  
Old 05-08-13, 05:40 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
If you plan on doing any of the following in the future, I would splurge for the 12".

-Base molding larger than 3 1/4"
-Crown Molding Larger than 2 1/2" (unless you do the cut flat method)
-Stair Treads of any kind require a slider
-Cutting anything larger than a 2x8

A 12" saw is also heavier which means safer/sturdier when handling long pieces of lumber.
 
  #4  
Old 05-08-13, 06:31 AM
J
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 4,294
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I bought a 10" a long time ago and brought it back the same day and bought a 12".
Something as simple as trying to build a deck, cut stair treads and you had to flip the boards over to cut all the way through.
Only time I've had a problum with a 12" blade flexing is if it's dull, using to fine a blade or trying to cut IPE.
90% of the time I use my Ryobi 12" that I've used since 1999 and still works fine. It's been left out in the rain on jobs when the tarp blew off, been tipped over in the trailed, and still works.
I also have the 12" slidding Hitichi with the digital readouts and lazer, but it's to heavy it takes two people to move it so I use it mainly in the shop.
 
  #5  
Old 05-09-13, 03:39 PM
Mike1555's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 307
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I had a 10" saw and would come up short on some boards. Sold it in a garage sale and bought a 10" slider one. Really happy with that one.
 
  #6  
Old 05-09-13, 04:47 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,964
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
I think if the majority of your work is wider boards, then a 10" slider will suffice. I do a lot of trim work, and in order to properly miter tall boards, I need the 12", but in addition I need a dislocated belt driven unit. My motor sits above it all and allows tall pieces to be mitered without the motor hitting it. I seldom have use for cutting wide boards doing trim. If I did, I have a circle saw.
 
  #7  
Old 05-09-13, 07:22 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 15,030
Received 629 Likes on 538 Posts
I have a DeWalt 12" non-slider and it has been the best $300 I spent 15 years ago.

IMO - I would buy a 12" non-slider, or a 10" slider.

Look on Craigslist for some good used ones. There are quite a few available. My Boss just bought a Rigid 12" slider for less than $300 (I think)
 
  #8  
Old 05-10-13, 08:21 AM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks everyone for your thoughts. Lowes just posted a great price drop on the Dewalt 12 inch nonslider ($219 before tax). Having gone and fiddled with the demos, I find I like the feel of the Dewalt more than the Hitachi (also enjoyed the feel of the Bosch, but that's another story). The hitachi gets great reviews but it just seems very cheap to the touch for some reason, perhaps becasue there is a lot of plastic on it. The Dewalt has more metal and I find I like that. It feels solid and precise. I must confess though, even though I think I am being silly, that I am a little taken in by theHitachi laser (the Dewalt model Lowes is selling does not have a laser or light and can't be used with the Deal add-on light or laser). But I guess millions of cuts have been made without lasers! The other best option is to cough up $300 more for the Dewalt slider (12 inch, with LED) or $200 (10 inch, no LED but adaptable for thirty more bucks).

Does anyone have experience attaching an aftermarket laser or LED to the Dewalt 718 (the one that will not take Dewalt's own laser system)? Or does this crowd find the laser / led options out there a gimmick?

Thanks.
 
  #9  
Old 05-10-13, 08:54 AM
N
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,743
Received 20 Likes on 18 Posts
I should have mentioned in my post that I have a 10" slider.
 
  #10  
Old 05-10-13, 03:35 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
You will need to constantly check the calibration of the laser. I had an old tile wet saw that had a laser you could control both the pitch and yawl (or something like that). Used it once, then when back to use it the next day and had to recalibrate it. Never used it after that.

If you measure your wood and mark it with a crows foot (a "V") instead of a line and then finish with a speed square, you have no need for a laser. Then set the saw blade close, start, take a nibble, adjust over a little until you hit your mark. The whole laser thing is a no deal breaker to me. I have a Delta 12", my buddy has a Rigid 12" slider (I want it) the Rigid is by far the superior saw (and the price shows it). Start with what you foresee you will need. Sometimes it is good to have a dream machine you hope to own someday. I'm still dreaming....
 
  #11  
Old 05-10-13, 04:10 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,110
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
My 10" Rigid has a laser. I use it just to get my mark close..then do as czizzi does. Useless outside on a sunny day anyway.

What you really need is that electronic miter saw table that Tommy uses on ToH. Prob only about 2 or 3 Grand.
 
  #12  
Old 05-10-13, 05:06 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 29,439
Received 1,580 Likes on 1,416 Posts
You don't want the laser with the Dewalt saw, you want the DW718XPS w/LED light. The DW718 is now a discontinued model (from what I have read) but the XPS light can be added onto it. It's the best attachment ever, casting a shadow on the workpiece that shows you exactly where the blade will cut. Fat blade? Fat shadow. Thin blade? Thin shadow. ingenious!

Amazon has a good deal on it right now. DEWALT DWS7085 Miter-Saw LED Work Light System, and says it is compatible.

Dewalt's site agrees.

DWS7085 Miter Saw L.E.D. Worklight System | DEWALT Tools
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: