I had this Green Works 1700psi 51012 pressure washer for over 2 years now and it works great. never really had issues with it until now. Two weeks ago I pulled it out of the shed and started leaking when i powered on. Took the pressure washer apart and found the broken piece (HP Swivel kit $18+$8shipping) not too bad. Installed the piece and it was still leaking but this time from inside. Dismantled the unit and found out that damage was in the housing.. Don't see that part for sale so before giving up on the unit asking for some advice. If anyone know of any trick that help me resolve the issue that would be awesome. First attempt i used zip ties but it snapped when I powered it on.


Photo of bad piece. There is crack in the mouth and is part of the housing. The clip supposed to hold the hose in place. That clip is cant grip onto anything as it is right now. I tried using the 2 zip tie but it snapped as soon i turned power on and water started gushing out..



Location of bad piece from the part list chart.


Manual of actual unit
http://www.greenworkstools.com/uploa...r_E_Manual.pdf

Bought the piece from here this site and housing is not a part for sale:
GREENWORKS 51012 Pressure Washer Parts, Breakdown & Owners Manual


Suck to trash the unit because of this. Already shopping for new one..

 

It sounds like the pump was allowed to freeze and now it's cracked.

I tried looking at the sites where I get parts from but no luck in the pump housing.

 

Epoxy would be your only hope.

 

gosh.. I guess that is exactly what happened to me. I did made sure to get all the water out but there is no way purge the water from inside the machine....

 

To effectively winterize a pressure washer you need to run RV antifreeze through it.

To do this you would need to make up a short hose with a garden hose connector and attached to the pump water inlet.
Put the hose end into a full jug of RV antifreeze, hold the spray wand trigger open and turn on the washer.
The fluid should be drawn into the pump and begin spraying.
Once you get a reasonable spray keep the pump running and release the spray trigger.

Depending on what type of washer you have the pump will either shut off on a pressure switch if electric or the unloader will cycle on a gas washer sending antifreeze through the unloader valve and piping.
Leave the antifreeze in the pump until next time.

Sounds like a bit of a process but once you get the hang of it it takes less than a minute to do.

 

While I don't live as far north, I've never used anti freeze in any pressure washer and have never had any issues BUT I always drain all the water out of the unit prior to putting it up! I disconnect [and drain] the pressure line and wand along with pulling the starter rope a few times to expel water from the pump.

I've taken care of PWers this way for over 40 yrs and never had a freeze issue. Not saying not to use the anti-freeze just that it isn't necessary if you remove the water. I believe removing the water also protects the pump/parts from rust/corrosion. I never knew you were supposed to winterize a PWer until reading it on the forums a few yrs ago

 

Mark,
Are the pressure washers you winterize electric?

If so the smaller homeowner electric units I am familiar with all use a pressure switch to turn off the motor when you release the wand trigger.
Gas types and larger commercial electric use a mechanical unloader where some sections of tubing can't be drained.
For these types it is important to operate the unit with antifreeze then release the rigger so that the unit unloads and pushes antifreeze through the unloader section.

It is not uncommon when the mid-winter weather warms up to -18C or 0F and with no wind and the sun shining to hook up to the house hydrant and wash whatever needs washing.

 

I missed the part about this PWer being electric I don't recall that I've ever used an electric PWer, I only know about the gas powered ones, mostly commercial duty.

 

Quick updates,, On my attempt to fix this unit I purchased a pack of Epoxy Metal/Concreted, and applied the glue in the opening and let it dry. Next day thought about re-enforcing it with 24 gauge wire all around and more Epoxy to harden.





4days later epoxy was fully hardened so I assembled the unit and took it to the back yard. I open water valve was fine, then powered on and it was running, pressure was good, after 5 mins it bursted. It was too good to be true.

The first mistake I realized was that the on the Epoxy package says not for portable water devices, and the second mistake I wrapped the wire on 1 side should have wrapped more on the side with the crack.

I saw the AR Blue 1900psi electric pressure washer on sale for $120 in Amazon so just bought it. However I am not giving up on fix it again but this time with hose clamps or wire clamps...

 

The problem with the epoxy breaking is it looks to be maybe the wrong type and wasn't applied properly.
It appears to be haphazardly applied.

You would need to encase the broken section totally and smoothly.....let this cure then build up layers moving away from the broken section.

The section that is broken after applying epoxy should closely take on the shape of the repaired piece, only thicker.
Another thing you need to do is rough up the area you will be gluing with fine sandpaper or a wire brush then totally clean the area with a solvent like acetone.

Applying wire will not help.

JB Weld is a good product.