Need advice to remove hole saw from arbor

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-05-15, 05:03 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Need advice to remove hole saw from arbor

I have this set of Milwaukee hole saw I use occasionally. The arbor just screws in from the back, there is not lock nut or anything from the other side. The Milwaukee hole saw cuts beautifully much better than the $9.95 Harbor Freight set.

However today after use the arbor won't come loose. It's stuck.





I sprayed some WD40, no luck. Tried a socket wrench on the arbor, no luck either. Tried sticking a screw driver shaft into the slots on the side, no luck...

Any idea how to get it loose?
 
  #2  
Old 10-05-15, 05:16 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,761
Received 1,321 Votes on 1,221 Posts
Clamp the arbor in a vice and use two big screwdrivers in the slots on the blade to turn the blade off.

You are supposed to put the blade on the arbor as far as you can and still use the locking collar. When you turn the nut on the bottom of the arbor.... two pins come up thru the blade and hold it in place. Your blade is jammed against the arbor as those two locking pins weren't used.

In the picture.... I pointed to where the locking pins of the arbor should come thru and hold the blade.

Name:  IMAG4709.jpg
Views: 7536
Size:  46.4 KB
 
  #3  
Old 10-05-15, 05:18 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,854
Received 83 Votes on 78 Posts
The reason it's stuck is you over tightened it.
The pins keep it from spinning on the arbor, it's never screwed on all the way to the flat area.
You get it close to it and then turn that knerled knob to lower the pins into the two holes in the saw.
Now your stuck with holding the hex part of the arbor in a vice and using a big pipe wrench, strap wrench of as a last resort channel locks to unscrew the hole saw.
 
  #4  
Old 10-05-15, 05:22 PM
J
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,854
Received 83 Votes on 78 Posts
Screw drivers will distroy the hole saw.
A blade spanner would also work, most people would not even know what one is.
 
  #5  
Old 10-05-15, 05:29 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,523
Received 37 Votes on 34 Posts
You can try a hair dryer to heat the saw part while you are in position to crank it off as others have suggested. I got caught with this when the saw passed through a hole and the locking collar hit the side of the hole and backed the pins out of their locking holes. I then proceeded to drill more holes not realizing the locking pins were no longer limiting the saw from spinning on extremely tight. I ultimately had to heat the saw to get it off. Using a hair dryer will prevent you from overheating the saw.

Bud
 
  #6  
Old 10-05-15, 06:20 PM
GregH's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 10,162
Received 43 Votes on 41 Posts
Are you sure the pins are not slightly into the holes in the saw?
If not I usually clamp the saw in a vice at the base where the most metal is.
A quick snap with a wrench might do it or an impact wrench would also work.
 
  #7  
Old 10-05-15, 06:25 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
OK I will try these tricks tomorrow.

What can I say I am an idiot.
 
  #8  
Old 10-05-15, 07:44 PM
GregH's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 10,162
Received 43 Votes on 41 Posts
No, I don't think so..........I thought your saw was stuck on the mandrel.
How'd you think folks know how to remove them!....cause theirs was stuck at one time too!
 
  #9  
Old 10-05-15, 08:26 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,761
Received 1,321 Votes on 1,221 Posts
I have to chuckle.... we've all gotten the blades stuck on.

Many of the basic mandrels don't have the locking pin system. Especially the smaller size blades so they get stuck routinely.

Your next question should be ..... how do you get the cut piece out of the inside of the blade ?
 
  #10  
Old 10-06-15, 06:30 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,523
Received 37 Votes on 34 Posts
MC, I also noticed there is no drill bit in the center of that saw, did you take it out?

Bud
 
  #11  
Old 10-06-15, 07:36 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Bud9051, yes I removed the drill bit.
 
  #12  
Old 10-06-15, 07:39 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
OK I got it to come loose.

I put the saw on a vise, then used a impact driver with a socket wrench adapter in reverse, a couple of tries it came loose.

Now, I need to learn how to use this saw properly. It was a very old set given to me and I never tried to used it until now.

So now I have the arbor loose. You say the right way to use it is to thread the arbor into the hole saw to "almost" tight, then turn the "dial" to engage the two "pins" into the two holes on the hole saw right?

Well, I do see the two pins, but the dial doesn't turn. What am I doing wrong? Or is this arbor broken or stuck?



 
  #13  
Old 10-06-15, 07:45 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 60,761
Received 1,321 Votes on 1,221 Posts
From the hole saw being bound at the top of the mandrel..... the top of the mandrel is probably peened over the two holes. A little 3in1 oil on the pins couldn't hurt.

You may have to put the hex part in a vice and use channelock pliers to loosen the nut.

Name:  IMAG4724.jpg
Views: 7237
Size:  27.1 KB
 
  #14  
Old 10-06-15, 07:53 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,523
Received 37 Votes on 34 Posts
Your dial (the knurled disk) should turn easily and push and retract the two pins. Since I can see threads between the dial and the main body I assume the pins are now fully retracted.

Does the dial turn?

Bud

Too fast for me PJ, again
 
  #15  
Old 10-06-15, 11:04 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
No the dial doesn't turn, not clockwise not counterclockwise, not even with a channel lock.
 
  #16  
Old 10-07-15, 12:06 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,523
Received 37 Votes on 34 Posts
Here's one like yours pictured with the dial all the way down with the pins extended.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-5.../dp/B00002249O

As PJ said, lubricate the pins plus the threads you see inside below the dial. The dial threads up and down on those threads on the shaft while a collar pulls and pushed the pins.

Bud
 
  #17  
Old 11-30-15, 10:35 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
I finally got the dial loosened.

So now I would like to make sure I know how to use this arbor properly.

Inserting the hole saw - do I threat the hole saw onto the arbor until it bottoms, then loosen the hole saw just enough for the two holes to align with the two pins from the arbor?

Then turn the dial to advance the pins all the way forward, and when the dial won't turn anymore then dial it back just a little.

Is this how it works?
 
  #18  
Old 11-30-15, 10:45 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 26,521
Received 776 Votes on 716 Posts
You got it all right except for the last part... turn the "dial" all the way tight.
 
  #19  
Old 12-01-15, 05:27 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 10,523
Received 37 Votes on 34 Posts
There is one extra caution. As the hole saw passes through the intended hole, that dial can bounce off of the side of the hole. That can accidentally withdraw the pins without you knowing it and then any further drilling would put you right back to where this all started.

So, as X said "turn the dial all the way tight" and then check those pins after every hole.

Bud
 
  #20  
Old 12-01-15, 07:13 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,668
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Got it. So turn the dial all the way tight.

Bud, thanks for the heads up on the dial getting bounced off the side of the hole. I noticed the dial is the same diameter as the cylinder. When I was trying to get it loosened, first by putting the hex shaft on a vice, then using a wrench to turn the dial - that didn't work, and I didn't want to use my bigger pipe wrench to totally chew up the dial, I then put the dial on the vice...and it was a bit tricky as I had to do it so that the big cylinder of the arbor was not clamped with the dial, then I used a impact driver on the shaft with a socket adapter, and a few forward reverse it came loose. I was wondering why they didn't make the dial slightly smaller or bigger. If they did, then it either wouldn't go through the hole, or it will go through it but less likely to be caught in the hole.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: