Tapcon sheared off in hole
#1
11-29-15, 12:26 PM
Tapcon sheared off in hole
I'm fastening a metal fireplace backplate to brick.
Drilled a 3.5 inch hole in the brick and started screwing in the tapcon but it sheared off halfway.
Anyway to get the other half out of the hole? I cannot drill a new hole as the backplate already has this hole in the metal now.
Drilled a 3.5 inch hole in the brick and started screwing in the tapcon but it sheared off halfway.
Anyway to get the other half out of the hole? I cannot drill a new hole as the backplate already has this hole in the metal now.
#2
11-29-15, 12:32 PM
Group Moderator
If there is anything still available.... use vise grips to remove the piece.
Otherwise you will need to move the hole as you cannot drill a tapcon out.
Otherwise you will need to move the hole as you cannot drill a tapcon out.
#3
11-29-15, 12:36 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Do you have any of the tapcon showing? Picture would help. THere are hollow screw extractors out there, although I couldn't find any to refer to, that you put in a driver in reverse and it actually grabs the outer portion of the screw, assuming you have any.
#4
11-29-15, 12:48 PM
This was the last of 4 tapcons, so to use a screw extractor or even vice grips, I have to remove the other 3, remove backplate, then reinstall but I can't re use them in the same hole so would I need bigger tapcons?
Used a drill bit of 5/32"
Used a drill bit of 5/32"
#5
11-29-15, 01:03 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Was it a Tapcon bit? They are proprietary and sized just right for the associated tapcons. How much weight will the other 3 screws have to hold? Will they? Do you need the 4th screw? Can you not drill another hole in the plate and insert another fastener?
#7
11-29-15, 01:22 PM
Member
If you are using tapcons, I assume that they will be covered up and not visible. Why can you not just drill another position? Can you provide a link to the item you are installing so we can get on the same page with you?
#8
11-29-15, 01:43 PM
Group Moderator
A 3 1/2" hole sounds kind of deep if you are fastening a metal plate. Embedment should be only 1" to 1 3/4".
http://www.tapcon.com/documents/tapc...3-16and1-4.pdf
http://www.tapcon.com/documents/tapc...3-16and1-4.pdf
#9
11-29-15, 02:04 PM
Attached pictures.
It's not supporting much weight, it was actually to stop a vibration from the fan. The original installer forgot to attach the backplate to the actual fireplace and now it's not possible as it's in place so I'm doing this as a makeshift attachment to stop the backplate vibrating against the metal.
It's not supporting much weight, it was actually to stop a vibration from the fan. The original installer forgot to attach the backplate to the actual fireplace and now it's not possible as it's in place so I'm doing this as a makeshift attachment to stop the backplate vibrating against the metal.
#10
11-29-15, 03:40 PM
Group Moderator
Most of those fireplaces are not attached to the brick. Mine is not.
You can drill on an angle and miss the broken piece. Also.... those tapcons are way too long.
You can drill on an angle and miss the broken piece. Also.... those tapcons are way too long.
#11
11-29-15, 03:54 PM
The backplate is supposed to be attached to the fireplace but it's not so now I have to attach it to the brick to stop it vibrating.
If I drill at an angle, the head of the tapcon will be at an angle too, which will look strange.
Originally they were that long as the space of the backplate is about 1 inch so I wanted a bit in the wall. Admittedly, a 2" tapcon would have worked but either way I need some way of getting the old one out.
It was drilled with the proprietary drill bit that came with the tapcons.
If I drill another position then there is a hole left on the plate.
If I drill at an angle, the head of the tapcon will be at an angle too, which will look strange.
Originally they were that long as the space of the backplate is about 1 inch so I wanted a bit in the wall. Admittedly, a 2" tapcon would have worked but either way I need some way of getting the old one out.
It was drilled with the proprietary drill bit that came with the tapcons.
If I drill another position then there is a hole left on the plate.
#12
11-29-15, 04:18 PM
Member
This is just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth.
You are happy to look at the exposed heads of tapcon screws, but an extra hole in sheet metal turns you off?
I would move the hole and re-drill. You can re-drill on the other side of the unit to balance as well and make it look like it is supposed to be that way. Get some black high temperature black paint and blend the hole and screw heads so they disappear.
You are happy to look at the exposed heads of tapcon screws, but an extra hole in sheet metal turns you off?
I would move the hole and re-drill. You can re-drill on the other side of the unit to balance as well and make it look like it is supposed to be that way. Get some black high temperature black paint and blend the hole and screw heads so they disappear.
#13
11-29-15, 04:50 PM
Group Moderator
It was drilled with the proprietary drill bit that came with the tapcons.
If you have long screws in the other three holes you should have plenty of holding power left if you take them out and put them back in.
#14
11-29-15, 04:52 PM
Member
Put fenders washers under each screw (yes they can usually be reused) so they match but where the broken one is you will drill another hole just to one side of the first and the fender washer will cover the old hole. (My prose is a bit tangled but I think it makes since.)
