Tank drain on older Campbell Hausfeld air compressor?

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Old 06-05-19, 07:56 AM
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Question Tank drain on older Campbell Hausfeld air compressor?

My first post, hello everyone!

I'm new to air compressors, but recently bought a used Campbell Hausfeld 20 gallon 5HP electric air compressor (oil free) model number WL610002AJ off of craigslist, and I have a question about the tank drain valve... because I can't find one on this unit.

I looked on the bottom of the air tank and all that's down there is a round "plate"-type fitting with a raised hexagonal surface on it. It's about 2.5 to 3 inches or so in diameter. It does NOT look inviting.

So I was wondering if some older consumer compressors like this one might not have been equipped with a tank drain valve... or if I'm supposed to crank that big plate out of the tank... or ?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me any feedback on this.

WW
 
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Old 06-05-19, 08:56 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

There should be a petcock on the bottom of the tank. If you could post a pic of the part in question we'd have a better idea of what you are looking at
https://www.doityourself.com/forum/e...-pictures.html
 
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Old 06-05-19, 09:41 AM
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Thanks marksr, as soon as I get home from work I'll take a picture and post it. -- WW
 
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Old 06-05-19, 09:50 AM
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Looks like it is located towards the front of the tank....#8 in the following

https://mastertoolrepair.com/portabl...p-1117888.html
 
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Old 06-05-19, 01:58 PM
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one mystery solved, one more thing to fix

If I had looked more closely late last night I would have seen what I'm showing you now in this picture.

I found where the drain plug should be but it's still not there... at least not ALL of it... looks like it got busted off sometime in the past.

My thought on looking at this is I could get one of my easy-out bits into that hole and try to power it out. I think I'll use a little penetrating oil before I begin.

I don't think that big hex-head thing is going to unscrew without a big fight. It's larger than any wrench I have (~2 3/16") and I don't want to try to wrestle with it unless I absolutely have to.

What do you think of my easy-out plan? Other ideas?

Thanks

WW
 
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Old 06-05-19, 02:19 PM
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I assume the petcock is currently closed ? Is that the only plug/fitting on the bottom of the tank?
I'd spend a few days saucing it down with PB Blaster before removing it. It 'should' come out fairly easy.
 
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Old 06-05-19, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr
I assume the petcock is currently closed ?
Unfortunately, I'm leaning towards "drain got sheared off, tank was never drained, petcock isn't "CLOSED" it is blocked by gunk.
 
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Old 06-05-19, 05:03 PM
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I agree with Hal; looks like the tank was dragged over something or something was shoved under it and broke the petcock off. It is probably brass, and, again, broken, not twisted off, so I would think that you could get it with an ez-out. Then it's a simple matter of picking up a new petcock for it. It would obviously be easier if you weren't standing on your head so to speak, but I would not remove that 1-1/2" bung or whatever size it is because those are put in at the factory and are very tight.
 
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Old 06-05-19, 05:04 PM
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the tank holds air

Whatever's going on with that broken part, the tank holds air okay. That said, I am currently waiting for a new tank gauge because the original one was broken... would not go to zero. I forget where it was stuck (what PSI) but it would show increase in pressure when the pump was running.

I haven't checked for leaks yet because I removed the busted gauge. I think I will try taking the line gauge off and attaching it to the tank fitting and seeing what it says... I'll give it a try overnight.

WW


 
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Old 06-05-19, 05:19 PM
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update: it leaks water

I just ran the pump again and as pressure increased I found water leaking out the hole in the bung at the bottom of the tank... it's not watertight, so I guess it's not airtight!

Okay, penetrating oil followed by ez-out... but not tonight!

Thanks everybody for your input

WW
 
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Old 06-06-19, 02:23 AM
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If I'm not mistake all the compressor tank petcocks are the same size. I know my 11 gallon sears and 60 gallon lowes tank use the same size although both were manufactured by DeVilbiss. Petcocks cost about $5-$6.
 
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Old 06-06-19, 02:54 AM
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Thanks marksr, I'm going to do a little online shopping today to get a replacement. I was in touch with Campbell Hausfeld to request an owners manual and others documentation for the unit, and they were VERY helpful, especially to a guy who bought one of their OLDER model compressors USED. I might call them up to see about availability of an OEM replacement...

Quick note: When I took the busted gauge off, I found a shred of loose teflon tape stuck in the fitting. I don't think that's what broke it but I know it couldn't have helped it work any better and it just goes to show it pays to use the stuff carefully...

WW
 
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Old 06-06-19, 03:00 AM
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That teflon tape often comes apart as you remove the fitting.

Good to hear that CH has good customer service
 
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Old 06-06-19, 03:35 AM
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drain

Just a note on the E-Z out. I've always found that the best way to proceed is to drill out the hole in the fitting as large as you can first. That way you can use the largest easy out you can. They are very brittle and break easily. Once that happens you've got a bigger problem! Good luck- Steve
 
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Old 06-06-19, 08:10 AM
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Search for 1/4" Thread & 9/16" Hex...THUMB SCREW DRAIN ****

https://www.amazon.com/compressor-mo.../dp/B00BBZM7FE $5.74....cheap

Free Delivery w/prime
 
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Old 06-06-19, 05:18 PM
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successful removal

Tonight I applied some PB Blaster and then used the EZ-Out drills to true up the hole, then tried getting that busted fitting out of there.

The EZ-Outs acted more like drills, just removing material and not gripping. Then I tried the BIG EZ-Out and it gripped... and stopped my drill rock solid. Smoke came out of the drill. I don't care if I never see THAT again.

So I took another approach. I'm attaching a pic of all the tools I used. What I wanted to do was find a way to peel that brass out of there without damaging the female threads in the cap fitting on the tank.

I didn't have a blade that would fit in there to cut a slot, and that's probably a good thing because then I would have tried to do it.

Instead I used a fine round file that's used for sharpening chain saws, I believe, and filed from the center hole outward through the brass towards the threads. I'd do a few stroked with the file and then wipe it across my palm to see what color filings I was getting... it was all brass, so I continued.

After filing one divot at six o'clock in the hole, I did another at 3 o'clock. Then I put a nail on the lump in between the divots and tapped until I had a little hole in it. Then I used a steel punch and continued tapping. I felt it begin to give, and after a couple more taps the ring of brass peeled out.

But it wasn't out of the hole yet, and I wanted to have that ring in my hand so I could look to see if I'd filed though enough to damage the female threads anywhere in the cap on the tank. I was puzzled how to get it out... pushing with anything was going to make it drop inside the tank. Then I stuck an appropriate sized screwdriver blade in and unscrewed it.

Voila. See image. Beat-up brass debris. But if I read it right I didn't file too deep anywhere.

I'll look more closely at the threads in the cap tomorrow.

I ordered a 1/4" thumbscrew drain from jack's small engines today.

Thanks again everybody for your input. I'm feeling good about today's results!

WW
 
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Old 06-07-19, 02:26 AM
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Glad you got it out .... don't you just love it when a plan comes together along with the bragging rites of having done it yourself
 
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Old 06-07-19, 04:03 AM
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Yeah, i'm afraid I enjoy the bragging a little too much!
 
marksr voted this post useful.
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Old 06-18-19, 04:00 AM
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Cool UPDATE: compressor works, in use

Hey, I wanted to provide an update... after replacing the busted tank pressure gauge and the tank drain valve and the power cord (somebody had puled out the ground prong) I fired the compressor up and when it reached designated pressure, 125 psi, it shut off just like it should. Dumping pressure back down to 100 or so made the pump kick on again. I left it overnight with the tank at 125 psi and it held pressure. Only downside, the quick-release coupler at the far end of the pressure hose sounds like it leaks a little when it has a tool connected to it. I found that out when I coupled on the air-blaster nozzle/trigger thing and used the pressure to blow prehistoric sawdust out of my NEXT project... a Sears 8" table saw from the 1940s or 50s.
 
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Old 06-18-19, 04:21 AM
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The cheaper quick disconnects are prone to leak and the good ones will wear out but they are easy to replace. I prefer the Milton brand.
 
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Old 06-18-19, 07:27 AM
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I'd suggest replacing the hard-to-use bottom petcock drain with a 90-degree elbow and an always-handy dedicated air gun on a yellow-plastic coil hose.
 
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