need to get bearing flange unit off shaft

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Old 06-28-19, 07:16 PM
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need to get bearing flange unit off shaft

I have this same exact bearing "flange unit" as shown in this link, installed on a shaft on a hoist which I must fix. I need to remove this bearing unit off the shaft. I got it unbolted and removed the two set screws and did some manual hard pulling and prying but it does not want to slide off the shaft. The outer iron gray part starts to budge/move outward with my pulling/prying but the inner bearing or seal (which is beneath the black colored thin metal protector cap around the shaft in the picture, and which I have removed already) seems not to budge at all and is what seems to be preventing the unit from just sliding off like I'd want it to. Anybody know what the trick is gonna be to get this off the shaft? Do I need a puller to do it? And if I do need a puller and get it pulled off, then I suppose a new one would have to be pressed on afterward? Any comments/advice appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/Browning-VF4S.../dp/B0027SK7EW
 
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Old 06-28-19, 07:29 PM
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Did you spray the bearing and shaft good with a rust eater like PB blaster or Liquid Wrench ?

You may have to use wedges between the square bearing base and where it's mounted.
You need to force the bearing off evenly.
 
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Old 06-28-19, 07:50 PM
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I did not spray the bearing and shaft with PB Blaster, but have some, and will. So far I've been attempting to pull/pry off evenly, and as I mentioned the gray iron part does begin to pull outward but the inner bearing or seal seems to be stuck tight on there and does not budge. I'll give it some PB Blaster and let it penetrate a good while and then try again. I assume the bearing and the iron flange business should slide of together all in one piece?
 
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Old 06-28-19, 07:57 PM
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Yes.... the block and the bearing should come off as one piece. No real way to use a puller on there. I'm not sure if you apply enough pressure behind the mounting block if the plate and bearing would separate. It doesn't look like it will.
 
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Old 06-28-19, 08:48 PM
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Below are some photos of the bearing flange on the shaft and with the mounting plate loosened. This is how it looked when I left it last, after I'd been struggling to pull and pry (evenly) but couldn't get the bearing to even begin to budge. My plan (tomorrow) will to apply the penetrating oil to the bearing and shaft, as suggested, and try again. I'll be applying pressure behind the mounting plate, as I did before, which is kinda the only way to try to push the flange off. I certainly hope the plate and bearing don't separate; so far it has almost acted like it could, even though it doesn't look it will.







 
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Old 06-28-19, 09:08 PM
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You've got problems..... major rust. I don't think the rust eater will do it. Try several applications of it and let it sit a bit. You may need to bring in a torch to burn the rust. It will destroy the bearing but it's getting changed anyway.

If the bearing splits..... use a puller.
 
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Old 06-28-19, 10:11 PM
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Hadn't really planned on having to replace the bearing. The bearing isn't the fix I wanted to do on the hoist. Just wanted to be able to slip the bearing/flange off the shaft, then slip it back on when I put everything back together. Maybe I can get to slide off with the PB Blaster treatment and not have to destroy the bearing with a torch and all that. I observed the heavier looking rust there to be visible just on the very end of the shaft, but then closer to the actual bearing there seems to be no visible rust. I'm thinking of maybe giving the end part of that shaft a good going over with some emery cloth first. Then applying the PB Blaster a few times on the shaft and bearing and let it sit, then fight with it some more.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 03:59 AM
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If you can push the bearing back into it's original position I would use some fine grit sandpaper to clean up the end of the shaft. Remove most of the rust and make sure the end of the shaft isn't flared by someone beating on it with a hammer. Then hose it with penetrating oil. Then use a bearing puller. If you don't have one many auto parts stores have one you can borrow.

If you still can't get it off then you might have to destroy the bearing. You can saw or torch off the housing and outer race if the bearing puller doesn't rip it apart for you. Sometimes heating the inner race with a torch will allow you to get it off or you can cut the inner race with a grinder. Then you can pry it open a bit and it will come right off.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 04:03 AM
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It always great to think that those rust busting solvents will come to the rescue but if it's rusted solid there is no way th solvents have any way of penetrating the joint regardless of how well it;s advertised.

The inner race is rusted to the shaft, if it has to come off, it's going to need the smoke wrench!
 
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Old 06-29-19, 04:22 AM
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What I have done a number of times, as long as time was on my side, was to spray it with penetrant (used to use Liquid Wrench, but have come to liking PB Blaster better), put a puller on it, and leave it. Three or four times a day I will see if I can tighten the puller any more and give it another shot of penetrant. If it even starts to move the penetrant can work a little deeper. Try that for two or three days, but if it hasn't moved at that point it's time for some heat. Any time you're using a puller on something like that you need to make sure that it's set up so that it's not squanching the end of the shaft or else you're just creating a secondary problem.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 09:25 AM
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Are you sure your bearing is exactly the same as the one in the link?
I can't quite tell by your pics but is the section with the set screws a cam lock type.
You can tell that type by there being in addition to the set screws a hole drilled half way through the collar.
If installed correctly you would put a pointed chisel in the hole and drive it in the direction of rotation.
Also, before removing any bearing the shaft must be cleaned and sanded/polished to as new condition.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 09:30 AM
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Are you sure your bearing is exactly the same as the one in the link?
Yes, I'm positive it's the same bearing. There's a little sticker on the bearing flange with the make and model number; exactly the same.

I can't quite tell by your pics but is the section with the set screws a cam lock type. You can tell that type by there being in addition to the set screws a hole drilled half way through the collar.
Nope.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 09:48 AM
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I would suggest you move the bearing back if you can then clean and polish the shaft.
The dirt, rust and small nicks and scratches will add a lot to the thickness of the shaft.
A bearing separator behind the bearing may give you a bit of mechanical advantage as well.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 09:56 AM
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A bearing separator behind the bearing may give you a bit of mechanical advantage as well.
Not sure what bearing separator is. Is it like an expanding bolt type screw in/out tool? If you can please provide an example link or picture. Thanks.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 01:38 PM
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You might need a hydraulic press. Probably find one at a machine shop, or maybe a car mechanic would have one. Harbor Freight has some cheapies.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 01:58 PM
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Borrowed a puller kit. Managed to get if off with that. With no damage it seems.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. big time.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 02:02 PM
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A bearing separator is just a different way to grab a bearing and would be one other tool choice whenever you do this kind of job.
When taking on this type of job you do need to have several tool choices available before you start.
You mentioned not wanting to destroy the bearing but unless you are very careful and only apply pressure to the inner race which is the part stuck to the shaft the bearing will be damaged just by using a puller on the outer race.
 
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Old 06-29-19, 02:05 PM
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Glad it worked out!
 
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Old 06-29-19, 03:30 PM
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I managed fairly easy in this particular situation with the type of puller as pictured below:





Thanks again, all.
 
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