rolling table saw stand
#1
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rolling table saw stand
Hi Guys -
I just bought my first table saw. To be honest, table saws scare the c**p outta me, but I gotta have one for the stuff I'm doing. I've gotten pretty creative over the years using jigs, fences etc with a circular saw, but accuracy and repeatability are an issue. Not to mention the setup time. PIA.
Anyways, I have a rigid rolling miter saw stand for my sliding, dual bevel miter saw. It is FANTASTIC (using a hercules dual bevel saw from harbor freight.) This is a REALLY nice saw (way better than my Rigid, which finally crapped out)
I'm pretty sure I could mount the table saw to the stand, but am wondering if putting the table saw on this stand would put it up to high? Has anyone else put a table saw on this the rigid rolling miter saw stand?
Thanks!!
I just bought my first table saw. To be honest, table saws scare the c**p outta me, but I gotta have one for the stuff I'm doing. I've gotten pretty creative over the years using jigs, fences etc with a circular saw, but accuracy and repeatability are an issue. Not to mention the setup time. PIA.
Anyways, I have a rigid rolling miter saw stand for my sliding, dual bevel miter saw. It is FANTASTIC (using a hercules dual bevel saw from harbor freight.) This is a REALLY nice saw (way better than my Rigid, which finally crapped out)
I'm pretty sure I could mount the table saw to the stand, but am wondering if putting the table saw on this stand would put it up to high? Has anyone else put a table saw on this the rigid rolling miter saw stand?
Thanks!!
#2
You are pushing boards through a table saw which creates a tipping issue. You aren't pushing anything on a miter saw stand. That's why table saw stands are lower and have a wider more stable footprint. Plus I bet it would be way too high to be comfortable to use on the miter stand.
#3
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Has anyone else put a table saw on this the rigid rolling miter saw stand?
The trash container puts the saw at a convenient height (for me), catches almost all of the sawdust, makes it easy to move the saw around, and if you crank the blade all the way down the lid closes.
The table saw is supported by four threaded rods going through the container.
Different sized nuts threaded on the rods allow for fine-tuning the level.
Wedges of packing foam hold the table saw dead center.
I glued strips of grippy black-foam insulation around the perimeter of the trashcan, made a plywood "plinth" to stand on, which is connect to the front "lifting bar" with rubber truck cover bungee cords. When you use the saw, you stand on the plywood plinth, your weight pins trashcan to the ground, and the grippy foam keeps anything from moving.
#4
I use it primarily for small pieces, cutting 2x4s etc.
#5
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I guess like many things, it's a matter of preference. For me, I'd get a stand designed to support the tool I'm using and mine is custom made - by me. So, my recommendation is to make your stand. Beyond that, I'd like to hear why you'd prefer a rolling stand unless you're a contractor..
#6
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Originally Posted by Marq1
Ouch, a table saw for cutting 2x4's, you really need to pick up a cheap miter saw for that!
(Now, my grandfather owned the local lumberyard, so I inherited a nice shop full of rip-saws, cross-cut saws, jack-saws, back-saws, coping saws, jig saws and a few I don't know the name for.)
But, when I'm
- cutting a precise angle
- doing 20 identical pieces,
- squaring a branch or sapling into dimensional lumber (~15 acres of various hardwood trees = never having to buy home-project lumber from the big-box-store)
So, that table saw in a rolly-trashcan and a 12 AWG gauge extension cord comes in handy.
Roll it over to where you're working, or back into the maple / locust grove to turn saplings / branches into tool handles.
Aside- dry honey locust WILL actually throw sparks and is so hard that it dulls any blade except carbide. That wood is harder than copper, aluminum, or cast iron. Beautiful grain though.
Last edited by Hal_S; 12-03-19 at 04:27 PM.
#7
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I've only cut locust for firewood or fence posts. It cuts well while it's still good and green but let it set a week and you get sparks with a chainsaw. Makes great firewood - very little ash.
#8
or back into the maple / locust grove to turn saplings / branches into tool handles.
Fricking amazing!
#9
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not a contractor, but I like being able to move the saw around and being able to fold it all up to conserve space in the garage.
I really liked the functionality of the rigid miter saw stand, hence the question of its usability for a table saw.
I don't know if rigid sells their table saw stand separately, can't seem to find it. So, I may opt to go with the dewalt stand, or maybe Bosch, but that one is pretty pricey for what it is.
Anyways, thanks for the help.
I really liked the functionality of the rigid miter saw stand, hence the question of its usability for a table saw.
I don't know if rigid sells their table saw stand separately, can't seem to find it. So, I may opt to go with the dewalt stand, or maybe Bosch, but that one is pretty pricey for what it is.
Anyways, thanks for the help.
#10
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Originally Posted by Marq1
] And your using the same table saw as a mill to process timber?
But I wouldn't call it "timber."
I'm only squaring off sections of 2' to 3' diameter saplings for small stuff, post-hole digger handle, wooden bench slats.
Right beside the barn/workshop is an acre of Norway maple saplings: they grew at the same time. That's an acre of straight-skinny-poles, 15'-25' tall, only 2"-5" in diameter, straight grain, no knots.
That means many of them have 6' or 8' segments that are arrow straight, constant diameter, so just need to square them up to use them.
#13
Exactly. Yes, my old work saw was the Bosch 4100. It was so sweet to roll around/ load and unload.