PowerPro Compressor Repair

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  #1  
Old 06-07-20, 09:32 AM
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PowerPro Compressor Repair

I have a PowerPro 6gal Oil Lubricated Horizontal Air Compressor on which the elbow connector to the cylinder head broke. It cracked and now I cannot get the connector off the cylinder head. I was able to take the broken piece off of the compression fitting on the end of the uploading pipe, but the other portion of the elbow connector is just too small and just shatters into tiny bits when I try to put the vice grip to it. There is no other way of gripping it. The bit that is left is in the threads of the cylinder head with a small amount sticking out. The connector that I am referring to is shown here, as part #27.

https://manualzz.com/doc/4082548/pow...nd-care-manual

Of anyone has experience repairing such compressors, what would be the best way to repair this?
 
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Old 06-07-20, 10:35 AM
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That elbow probably became brittle from the heat of the head and the compressed air passing thru it. You have two options..... replace the head or try an easy-out/extractor. The link below is just for an illustration. They come in many different sizes and as kits.

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Link to assorted extractors.
 
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Old 06-07-20, 11:55 AM
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Thanks, PJmax, I forgot all about those extractors. I think I have a few laying around. I'll see if one is the right size to get the thing out. I'd much rather replace just the fitting if I can. If this doesn't work, I'll have to splurge on a new cylinder head, which I think may be tough to find in addition to the higher cost.
 
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Old 06-08-20, 05:18 AM
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OK, the extractor did NOT work. It's like the broken piece of the elbow fitting is welded into the cylinder head. I was watching a Youtube video of a man replacing the cylinder head gasket and he took off the cylinder head with the fitting attached, so perhaps it is part of the cylinder head and it only comes off at the compression fitting side! :-(

Now I have to hunt down a cylinder head. :-(

Does the cylinder head normally come off without damaging the gasket or should I also replace the gasket (i.e. if it tears apart during cylinder head removal)? I've had this compressor for a number of years but have not used it more than a few hours (at most) of motor running time.

Thanks
 
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Old 06-08-20, 09:06 AM
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While the head could come off without damaging the gasket it's good practice to replace the gasket. Have you tried dousing it down a few times with PB Blaster?
 
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Old 06-09-20, 05:52 AM
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I don't have any PB Blaster, but could try shots of WD40. I don't think it's a matter of rust, though, as the elbow fitting is made of cast brass and the cylinder head is made of aluminum. But worth the try. Thanks for the suggestion.

I have been trying to find these parts. It appears that the PowerPro is from the WEN family of products, not sure where they are made (China?), and have contacted WEN as they have a WEN branded unit that looks identical to mine. According to their web site, they have the cylinder head ($14.63) and the elbow fitting ($5.99), but no gasket. I will wait for a response from them, though. In the mean time I'll try some some WD40 as a rust penetrant. But, as a minimum, I will need an elbow fitting. Unfortunately this thing failed while I was in the middle of nailing down some engineered flooring.

 
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Old 06-09-20, 06:53 AM
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I'll make a comment although it is moot at this time until you get a response from WEN.

First, I would be inclined to think the elbow is a separate part because its shows as an individual part on the exploded parts sheet (also as you noted that WEN has both parts). So, its supposed to come out. I also agree that some penetrating oil of some sort should help break it loose. However, if not...... & if WEN doesn't come through for you..... If worse comes to worse, you could drill it out & re-tap the threads. Of course that means you need a tap & die set. But, then you gotta get an elbow to fit your new hole & thread sizes etc.
If WEN comes through with a new head & elbow but no gasket, most parts houses carry sheets of gasket material. Then you can just use the head as a guide & cut a gasket out of a new sheet. Just try to get the same thing that is on there now, whether its cork or paper type, etc.

I'd still try some good penetrating oil & let it sit over night if need be. With the easy-out, work the elbow/fitting back & forth until it breaks loose (obviously, turning clockwise will back off & loosen the easy-out. Just put a little tension to see if it will work back a little before the easy-out breaks loose). Put a little more penetrating oil on it as you go if needed to help keep it lubed as you remove it. Once you get the easy-out "locked" onto the fitting, you could even take a small hammer & kinda "tap" on the easy-out (like a punch) & see if that wont help break it loose a bit. Don't hit it too hard but just enough to kinda break loose any rust/corrosion. You can try tapping it while putting a little pressure on the easy-out (while turning as to remove it). Tap... dont get too rough with it. You don't want to take a chance on breaking your fitting or damaging your threads.... or jamming/twisting/cross threading the elbow & making it more difficult to get out.

Keep us posted......

EDIT:
According to their web site, they have the cylinder head ($14.63) and the elbow fitting ($5.99), but no gasket.

The gasket may come with the head, so it may not be listed as an individual part on the parts list. The head & the gasket may be in one package. So ask if a gasket comes with the head.
 
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Old 06-09-20, 08:33 AM
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Hi, donít waste your time with WD40 use PB Blast as suggested, if you have a drill press set the head up and drill the brass out, use a bit that just fits the fitting, take out as much brass as possible without touching the threads , you may be able to then work the remaining brass out with a pick, itís worked for me.
Geo
 
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Old 06-09-20, 01:47 PM
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Yes, I believe the elbow is supposed to be a separate part, for the reason you state, Dixie2012, it just seems to be frozen in place. I don't have a tap and die set, but if I can't get the parts, that is an option, but I'll have to figure out how to use the tap and die set (which I haven't done before) and then finding a fitting for it, but if the tap and die set is for a standard size that should not be too big a problem. Cutting out my own gasket sounds a bit tricky, but if the gasket is not available cut for it, that is also a good option. I wasn't aware that gasket material was available in sheets, which is good to know if the gasket is not packaged with the cylinder head. Thanks for that and for the tips on using the easy-extractor. I'll keep at it to see if I can work it loose (and yes, I do have a fear of destroying the threads on the cylinder head, so I will be gentle.

The drill press idea sounds a bit tricky as the work point is fixed to the compressor from the side, Geochurchi.

 
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Old 06-10-20, 10:19 AM
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I couldn't wait any longer for a response from WEN. I called up by telephone, had to wait for 10 people to be served ahead of me (I think maybe 30-40 minutes), finally got a fellow on the line who told me they had all the parts I need in stock. Placed an order for the elbow fitting, the cylinder head and the gasket, all for US$29.98 including shipping. Expect them to take 7-10 days to get to me.

The broken elbow piece offers me no hope for removal, no matter how many times I try to spring it loose with steady force or by tapping with a hammer on the wrench handle, or a combination of the two. I think the easy-extractor is a self defeating tool - the more force I apply to get it loose, the more pressure the tool applies radially outward increasing the friction between the inner and outer threads.
 
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Old 06-10-20, 10:33 AM
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Yes.... the extractor will not properly work in brass.
The right angle fitting is definitely a separate parts as it's brass and the head is steel or aluminum.

When I need to get a brass fitting out..... I use a Dremel grinder with a small bit and cut thru the brass til just before the threads. Then use a pick to remove the brass. The biggest problem here is that if the head is aluminum.... it's almost as soft as the brass fitting.
 
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Old 06-25-20, 11:44 AM
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Hmmm ...

Replaced the cylinder head, the gasket and the elbow fitting. Turned on the power and watched the gauges. Pressure did not rise, so I turned it off. Any ideas what can cause this?

Thanks
 
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Old 06-25-20, 12:52 PM
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Hi, check the check valve ,it could be stuck open, and unloader valve also, do you hear any air escaping anywhere? The parts dia. Show how the valves etc. go together, just curious why did the elbow break in the first place?
Geo
 

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Old 06-25-20, 02:29 PM
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There is no noise (hissing) coming from the compressor at all when it's not running. I don't believe there are any leaks although I have not checked for them with a soapy solution (I have the compressor on the second floor). All was working well until the elbow fitting busted.

I took the cylinder head off a couple of weeks ago, and can't be sure that I put everything back exactly the way it was. When the cylinder head came off the cylinder, the valve and valve plates were stuck to the cylinder head gasket. It wasn't until today (when the parts arrived) that I pried the valve off the gasket, then placed the valve and valve plates on the valve gasket and the new gasket on top of the valve. I thought I put it all back the way it should be, but perhaps not. Is it possible that the misplacement of the valve and valve plates could be causing this? I could take off the elbow fitting and see if any air is coming from the compressor, if misplacing theses parts could cause this issue.
 
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Old 06-25-20, 06:40 PM
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I don't know why the elbow fitting broke. I was doing some quarter round installation, took one piece to the saw to cut it, and while I was doing that the compressor came on and stayed on far longer than it should have. So I turned it off and examined it - that is when I found the elbow fitting split open!
 
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Old 06-25-20, 06:48 PM
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Yes, the parts exploded view shows how the parts go together - the valve with two plates on top, however the plates are not identical and neither are the two valve openings or the places where the plates sit on the valve, and the valve could have been placed rotated 180 degrees since the bolts that secure the whole thing together are equidistant and I think will fit rotated 180! So, I wonder if perhaps either the plates are reversed or the valve is rotated 180 degrees from what it should be!
 
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Old 06-26-20, 06:55 AM
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Found the problem.

I took the filler tube off the elbow fitting. As I suspected there was no air coming out!

So I took the entire assembly apart again. When I had done it the first time, there was a small amount of carbon build-up on the valve plates (small thin reeds) so I cleaned them with a paper towel and put them back dry. They were slightly oily before I cleaned them. So I applied a little machine oil to them and then put everything back. I don't know if this had anything to do with the "no air" issue. But the one plate sits in a depression on the bottom surface whereas the other sits in a depression on the top surface (the valve); it is very tricky to get it to stay on when the valve is placed upside down (even the thin amount of oil does NOT provide sufficient hold for it not to fall off onto the bottom surface). So I suspect that the plate (reed) may have been out of place and pinched between the bottom and top surfaces, preventing the valve from functioning as intended!

These reed valves are somewhat of a nuisance. Just leave it to the Chinese !!!

Hopefully this helps some people out who may experience a similar difficulty.
 
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Old 06-26-20, 12:25 PM
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Thanks for letting us know.
Geo
 
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