Im working w a kobalt electric mower an the switch seems to be nonfunctional.i took it apart..can i get away with changing that safety switch set up over to a regular 110 switch box an do away with the cable handle part an contact start button ? I got a 110 box an switch already.Or is there a feature inside that black control box that shuts it off if over load,etc?thanks getting pics
It is a two pole switch. The power to the motor is normally open and the motor leads shorted together across a resistor are normally closed. So the switch forced in that manner means the motor braking system doesn't work. Do you notice a difference in how it operates? Does it take awhile for the motor to stop spinning after you unplug it?
I was thinking about hard wiring my mower after finding that it's switch wasn't working, but the motor brake is nice and so is the safety mechanism I suppose. I looked online for a replacement switch - Black and Decker has what appears to be a similar one, #5140164-25, but it costs $20, so I popped the cap of my switch with a pocket knife and found that a small piece of broken plastic was wedged in between 2 of the contacts, preventing them from touching.
Feel pretty good about that fix, seeing as the manufacturer only wants you to buy a whole new mower..
You will not find a direct Kobalt replacement part. Many have tried and have hit a brick wall,
On one of the tech sites I'm on.... picture frame hanging wire was recommended for a cable replacement. Not the strongest but is easy to get and work with. Get a roll of that and buy some un-insulated electrical crimps.
Either butt crimps or ring crimps and cut the terminal part off.
If you wanted something a little more durable..... you could but a replacement cable that fit inside the switch but you'd need to modify the handle end. example control cable
Mid-project my Husky H1506F compressor stopped making pressure. It got very loud and HOT before I shut it down. I have fixed this compressor before by replacing the reeds so I went to look there first. From the output side the reeds looked fine. I did not break the joint apart to look at the other side since I did not have a replacement gasket.
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_0089_a358a7bf62805383d11a6cc643c28c8abc4a6f9b.jpg[/img]
[i]Reed seals appear to be OK and spring back when pressed.[/i]
Then when I looked at the piston on the opposite side I found this:
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_0087_b9b940695f5a44e6da253b90a781acc8c7c8d819.jpg[/img]
[i]Some kind of hardened schmutz on the piston reeds preventing them from flexing.[/i]
Looking at the other end of the piston I could not see any obstructions in the shaft or any melted or missing (plastic?) parts that could explain the source of the schmutz. The fan wheel was not too dirty and only had a small amount of dust fluff.
Any ideas about the source of the schmutz? I plan to chip/scrape it off to see if it frees up the reeds.
The compressor is 17 years old. Could this just be from normal wear-and-tear (on the drive belt?) being sucked into the intake tube on the piston?Read More
made by Tool Shop am not able to find model # or serial number on it anywhere need a new electrical start switch or a new rocker switch it will not shut off & starts when plugged in have disassembled the switch & found that the rocker switch with a points on both ends of which 1 side is badly burn"t but other looks goodRead More