Mitre saw/Cutoff saw
#1
Mitre saw/Cutoff saw
What problems would I get into if I purchase a metal cutoff blade and put it onto a mitre saw? This is a Delta 12" slide mitre. I have some 2" square tubing that I don't look forward to cutting by hand nor finding someone with a horizontal band saw. Essentially the same thing I would think(in a sense any ways). I haven't actually looked at a blade yet but......

#2
WestLake Hardware near me uses a metal cutting blade on a power mitre saw to cut metal for customers. All I can say is that I have seen it work.
In my opinion, the blade would dull relatively soon, but sounds like you have a good use for one.
I want to differentiate between a metal cutting blade with teeth designed for power miter saws verses the thicker black asbestos looking blade used in metal chop saws. Don't use the later black blades which are disks, without teeth.
In my opinion, the blade would dull relatively soon, but sounds like you have a good use for one.
I want to differentiate between a metal cutting blade with teeth designed for power miter saws verses the thicker black asbestos looking blade used in metal chop saws. Don't use the later black blades which are disks, without teeth.
#4
I hadn't thought of why-not, but here are some thoughts.
By the way, I own and use both chop saws and mitre saws. The chop saw is a filthy dirty tool by nature and I would hate to stain my mitre saw with those embedded steel bits and soot.
1. The disk may not be rated for the high rpm of the mitre saw.
2. The disk will eat into your mitre saw base plate after the cut since it is wider that a saw blade.
3. The disk may not fit safely the mitre saw arbor shaft length, maybe too thick.
4. The electronic brake may be damaged when contacting the disk to stop it.
5. Metal chop saws hold the metal in a vise which the mitre saw does not have. There is alot of cutting torque due to the wide cut.
6. Two inch long red hot steel burrs can fall onto the mitre plastic clearance base and melt it a bit. Or land in the dust bag with your sawdust. The metal cutting tooth blade does not create burrs.
7. Metal chop saws have a metal blade guard that won't melt from the intense heat and sparks generated by the wide grinding cut. And they will better contain a shattered disk.
8. I would be guessing to say that more hp is needed for a grinding cut. I know that my chop saw is loud and has a powerful motor.
Otherwise, if it works, good luck and let us know how it turns out.
By the way, I own and use both chop saws and mitre saws. The chop saw is a filthy dirty tool by nature and I would hate to stain my mitre saw with those embedded steel bits and soot.
1. The disk may not be rated for the high rpm of the mitre saw.
2. The disk will eat into your mitre saw base plate after the cut since it is wider that a saw blade.
3. The disk may not fit safely the mitre saw arbor shaft length, maybe too thick.
4. The electronic brake may be damaged when contacting the disk to stop it.
5. Metal chop saws hold the metal in a vise which the mitre saw does not have. There is alot of cutting torque due to the wide cut.
6. Two inch long red hot steel burrs can fall onto the mitre plastic clearance base and melt it a bit. Or land in the dust bag with your sawdust. The metal cutting tooth blade does not create burrs.
7. Metal chop saws have a metal blade guard that won't melt from the intense heat and sparks generated by the wide grinding cut. And they will better contain a shattered disk.
8. I would be guessing to say that more hp is needed for a grinding cut. I know that my chop saw is loud and has a powerful motor.
Otherwise, if it works, good luck and let us know how it turns out.
#6
Why is it so easy to the human mind to not see the obvious? I just checked and discovered that the metal chop saw disks are 14" diameter so they won't even fit a wood mitre saw. Such is life.
By the way, floor model metal band saws start at $170 if your an occasional metal worker.
By the way, floor model metal band saws start at $170 if your an occasional metal worker.