Old 03-05-02, 01:36 AM
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Question Scotchbrite

Imagine a 5" wide 3M Scocthbrite wheel. I am currently using a 1 3/8" SS tube to spin through this wheel. I use the inside core to polish plastic with. Can you reccomend a material that would hold up better. After about 10 cores I have diminished my tube 1/2" or so and am getting frustrated. Carbid tipped hole saws wear out after about 40-50 holes and the worst is I have to drill from both sides..... Can you suggest a magic bullet
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Old 03-05-02, 09:04 PM
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Question More Detailed Information Requested

Hello BDJJOT and Welcome to my Sharpening forum.

I have read and reread your posting several times.

Sorry your getting frustrated. Unfortunately, I haven't got the foggiest idea what your doing nor can I begin to imagine it or the 5" wheel....

I must presently be having a"Senior Moment."

What is an SS tube? Solid Steel?

What kind of a Wheel?...Grinding wheel?

How does this tube go through the wheel?

If the carbide tips wear out after 40-50 holes, that's not so bad. Try titanium tips. Get the hole saws resharpened.

Sharpeners love dull tools........$$$$$$$

Regards and Good Luck. Sharpening Forum Moderator
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Old 03-06-02, 01:51 AM
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Silly me...

Musta been to late for you and me
I made drastic asumptions that in a posting like this could be .....hmmm well lets start again.

This 'wheel' is a 3M product 15"dia. x 5" across with a 5" core hole. It is an industrial grade Scotchbrite material not unlike your (making an asumption you have both a wife and she does dishes ) wifes dish scrubby thingy except wound very tightly around a fiberglass 'core'.

My end product is 1 1/4"dia. x 5" length 'cone'. I am currently doing this with a SS (stainless steel) thin wall tubing crammed into a 1 1/2" holesaw. Reason being I'm to cheap to buy a custom(quoted $125-185) 5" long hole saw to go through this 'wheel' in one pass. Unless you have a source for an off the shelf 5" deep hole saw? If I get one of these custom made suckers the silly thing would be tuckerd out after one wheel... even with carbide tips. I am using a drill press currently to do this.
Whew is that better?
Old 03-06-02, 09:09 PM
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I think I got the concept of the Scotchbrite wheel. A 15 inch diameter and 5 inch thick {wide} wire wheel made but not from wire but wound steel like a brillow pad. The core, as you call it, is the mounting hole in the center of the wheel.

How this plays into the finished product loses me. It was never explained. I guess it's used to polish or remove burrs.

Your actual question then is: What can you use to core a 5 inch wide hole thru both sides of the stainless steel tubes in one operation.

Another part of your question is where can you obtain 5 inch deep and 1 & 1/2 inch diameter hole saws that won't cost you an arm and two legs? The answer to which is, I do not know.

If your cutting stainless steel, try titanium tipped hole saws.
If your seeking lower costs and speed, you may already be using the correct method.

To increase speed, by making the holes in one pass, and do so with tools that cut well and remain sharp for long periods of time, the tool costs must be paid.

As it is in car engines and like we use to say as hotroders,
"There is no substitute for HORSEPOWER." Same with fuel mileages. {MPG}

It's always a trade off. Miles per gallon or horsepower. We have to pay for it if we want power.

The tool forum my have alternate suggestions, solutions or advice. I sharpen tools and my not have all the answers.

Regards and Good Luck. Sharpening Forum Moderator
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Old 03-08-02, 12:40 AM
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Well to better explain things before my brain is mush this time....
I can understand why you are confused if I step back and look at last few posting

This wheel is made out of not metal but the type of material that wifey pooh uses on teflon pans and glass, supposedly so as to not scratch it. I would imagine it is a synthetic material. This wheel is most commonly used to polish or deburr. it gives a wonderfull brushed satin finish to metal. The fiberglass core is just the center portion that this material is would around, maybe 5/16 thick or so. An adapter fits inside to allow mounting on a grinder then.

So thats the intended use, enter stage right silly me. I am taking this wheel and setting it on its side ( now 5" tall and looking as a doughnut from above, the core opening is on this one also 5", no real bearing just more info for you ) and then drilling through this wheel with a thin wall Stainless Steel tube. I have this tube crammed into a hole saw that fits over the top of this tube. Thats how I get my 5". I start with 6" or so and after 10-15 holes I'm no longer going all the way through. it's so abrasive that it wears the tube down. I started with a copper water tube but that bogged down the drill press. This SS tube seems to work but wears out pretty fast. Carbide tips are worthless after about 30 holes and really bog down the drill press. I guess maybe a source for a thin wall cobalt tube This is what I use to bore through the wheel. My end product is the inside "cone" that's what we call it anyways. After 40 or so holes the wheel is swiss cheese and tossed. The lil 'cones' then are fitted to an arbor and used to polish plastic.
I trust that this will enlighten you a bit more. Kinda surprised you haven't run into these wheels before, maybe you know them under a different name? Takes rust off well, neat to polish garage sale tools, won't really destroy metal unless you bear down and want to take a lot off.

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