Homemade router table with lift $100

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  #1  
Old 03-10-02, 12:14 PM
chadtoolio
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Homemade router table with lift $100

I recently built a new router table for my small workshop and pulled out all the stops. Since I probably use my router table more than any other tool, I decided that it needed some special features without the store bought cost. Since I consider myself a thrifty kind of guy, I visit the pawn shop on a regular basis and my table is the result. I built a 2'x4' table with a router lift and two power outlets and switches(one to turn on the router and the other for the light inside the table). I havent added the light yet or the cabinet doors, but plan to in the future... Here are the things that I used for construction and there prices..

1. 1hp craftsman router, pawn shop $30
2. scissors style car jack, coworker free
3. wood, $45
4. screws, $3
5. (2) 3/8" universal joints, pawn shop $2
6. (1) 13/16" wrench, pawn shop $1
7. 3/8" steel rod (36" long), $4
8. (2) 3/8" nylon bushings, $1
9. (1) 3/8" bolt (1" long), $.50
10. (2) power outlets with switch, $10
11. (2) outlet boxes and covers, $2
12. 9' power supply cord, $8.50
13. everything else was made from scrap(fences, etc...)


I can control all of the depths of the router and lock it down from outside the table for about 10 bucks!
Enclosed are some pictures of it..
It took me about 15hrs to build but so far it has been well worth it...

Enjoy, Chad

http://www.fortunecity.com/westwood/makeover/166/
 

Last edited by chadtoolio; 03-13-02 at 12:55 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-11-02, 02:18 PM
RobSchaef
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This board doesn't support attachements. You have to post them on the interenet some where else and the use the link, or address meathod. I would love to see your creation!
 
  #3  
Old 03-11-02, 07:54 PM
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Rob,
I tried that method and it didn't quite work.
fred
 
  #4  
Old 03-12-02, 05:40 AM
RobSchaef
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Here is a link to another thread where I used that meathod. You have to post the picture somewhere else on the internet. Then copy and past the picture address using the http:// button. I hope that helps.
Rob
 
  #5  
Old 03-12-02, 06:23 AM
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Hi Rob,
Yepper, I understand.
I've got a website, but thought I could insert a pic right here in the forum. Using [img], in front and behind the site name.
I've seen many diagrams, etc. here.
Thought I would try a .jpg
fred
 
  #6  
Old 03-12-02, 06:26 AM
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Rob,

PS:
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and I just found out: you can only post 1 reply every 60 ses.
frd
 
  #7  
Old 03-12-02, 06:33 AM
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Rob,
Onward and upward.


Check out Mikes jpg in Plumbing - Low Water Pressure

maybe there is a size limit.

or moreprobably -
Maybe Mods have special priveleges
fred
 
  #8  
Old 03-12-02, 09:32 AM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

There's a size limit on what you can post here .

A link to the project probably works best. Sounds like quite a creation!
 
  #9  
Old 03-12-02, 10:57 AM
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Thanks Joe,

I guess a 800K tiff file would be a bit large!!!
Maybe we'll try something smaller.

fred
 
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Old 03-12-02, 01:56 PM
chadtoolio
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  #11  
Old 03-12-02, 08:04 PM
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Hey Chad,
Good looking pictures, and a great, versatile, table for the amount of money you spent.
The scissor jack is really slick idea, especially with the crank.
I still need to buy one of those extension adjustment screws for my Porter Cable. I made my table a few years ago, used a three foot piece of formica counter top.
About the only thing I would do different is to enclose the entire router with a compartment that has a dust collection port. As you know. It gets mighty dusty under there.
Have you thought about laminating your top? And one question on the jack -- Will it positive lock so the bit won't lower with pressure??
Take care,
fred
 
  #12  
Old 03-13-02, 12:52 PM
chadtoolio
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Hey Fewalt, yes the jack does lock(imagine if you jack up your car and change the tire and the car starts coming down while you are putting the tire on), but I put the other rod on there so I can lock the router in it's position...

I was thinking about putting a skin on the top last night, any suggestions on what to use. How bout a bit to trim the inside of the grooves where my fences etc. slide, it would have to be a small flush trim bit????

And I do have in the plans to make a cabinet door with bit holder and some sort of dust collection, but my garage is fairly small(for dust collection)

Thanks for the compliment.....
 
  #13  
Old 03-13-02, 02:13 PM
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Yep,
A short flush trim bit with the pilot bearing on the end.
fred
 
  #14  
Old 03-13-02, 05:09 PM
chadtoolio
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Fewalt, just came from home depot and they don't have anything to cover the top of my table because they said particle board would have to have a "hot laminate". The guy at home depot did not sound to sure though. You mentioned laminate, can you be a little more specific or should I just use something else for the top??? I would like to retain my top if at all possible..

Thanks

P.S. Got those cabinet doors on, but I need to get a little bit better at hinges,.lol
 
  #15  
Old 03-13-02, 06:16 PM
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Chad,
Is your top particle board or MDF. Either way, a piece of formica
and some contact cement will do the trick.
But you ought to look into a piece of counter top, my 3 foot piece was left-over from a job and only cost a few dollars. Bought one of those phenolic base plates to mount the router on. Then I routed my fence channels with router and a Clamp-N-Tool Guide, a great tool for routing long dados.
You're right, hinges can be a bugger sometimes. I used piano hinges on my router table. I even tried european hinges on a melamine pantry for the Mrs. Surprisingly they came out good.
fred
 
  #16  
Old 03-27-02, 10:13 AM
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A hot laminate???? Now the pre-formed stuff I can see it. And I've heard not to try gluing it to fir ply (I imagine it's supposed to be too porous to get a good bond, although I cheerfully disregarded this advice and it's still stuck down.) Sounds like something the clerk read in one of the leaflets they have available for the pre-form. One of the reasons why when they ask "Can I help you?" I'm always quick to answer, "Oh, no, I'm fine!" . Unless I need some quik-crete bags lifted !

chadtulio, I'm very interested in the switch for the router. I need to do something of the sort for my old table saw. I've seen switch/outlet combos, but usually in a household situation, and not where the switch would switch the outlet, as it were. I can't quite tell how this works from the photos. Could you explain?

As far as the coding on the forums. I can tell you that HTML is a lot more flexible than vB. But also easier to screw up, unfortunately. Of the different sites I frequent that host forums, only one of them allows HTML.
 
  #17  
Old 03-29-02, 03:13 PM
chadtoolio
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It was a switch that I bought from Home depot for about 3 bucks..


I have two switch/outlets(one outside and one inside).

The switch on the outsideoutlet supplies the outlet and switch on the inside with power.

The outlet stays powered so that I can use other power tools without unplugging the router. The router is plugged into and identical switch/outlet on the inside of the table, but controlled by the light switch on the outside of the table.

The switch on the inside of the table is for future use of a light inside the table, but not sure if I need it now!

Good luck..
 
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