Reciprocating saw - corded or cordless?
#1
Reciprocating saw - corded or cordless?
Which is better to have for a reciprocating saw? In particular, comparing the recip. saws that come with the various combo cordless toolsets (from Ryobi at the low end to DeWalt/Milwaulkee at the high) to the stand-alone purchase corded models.
Obviously the limitation on cordless is the battery life, that's a given. The real question I have is will they work equally well for cutting? Are the cordless models safe in case you cut through a hot wire (allegedly a properly insulated and grounded corded model will just lose the blade)?
Any recommendations on one? I suspect it'll be the next tool I buy as deconstruction projects loom.
Obviously the limitation on cordless is the battery life, that's a given. The real question I have is will they work equally well for cutting? Are the cordless models safe in case you cut through a hot wire (allegedly a properly insulated and grounded corded model will just lose the blade)?
Any recommendations on one? I suspect it'll be the next tool I buy as deconstruction projects loom.
#2
recipricating saw
Since having my new home completed in January of this year, I took all of my older tools and flea marketed them to purchase all new ones. I had to justify needing new tools and at the same time, come up with some of the extra cash for the new ones so the wife would not be too bent out about it. One of the tools replaced was my Sears Craftsman electric 6.5 amp recipricating saw. I have now used this thing quite a bit building my work bench in the garage, installing shelves in the basement, and even installing the racks and shelves in the garden shed. Yes, I had to run an extention cord out to the garden shed, but I feel that the power you get from an electric corded tool verses a battery pack is well worth the extra few minutes it takes to run the extention cord out to my project area. I will run my generator if I am down on the lower end of the property if power is needed.
I have cordless screw drivers and drills I use all the time as well but find that I am changing the battery all the time. I use the 12v batteries for the drill. It does not take too long to recharge and if you run two batteries (one in the charger and one in the drill), you will not run out of power on today's cordless tools but I feel that power to cut is the issue and not power to operate.
If you are doing a project that has a need to run a recipricating saw, chances are that you need the power at the cutting end and I cannot find that with cordless tools. Cordless tools will always have a place in my garage, but as a secondary and not primary tool of choice.
I have cordless screw drivers and drills I use all the time as well but find that I am changing the battery all the time. I use the 12v batteries for the drill. It does not take too long to recharge and if you run two batteries (one in the charger and one in the drill), you will not run out of power on today's cordless tools but I feel that power to cut is the issue and not power to operate.
If you are doing a project that has a need to run a recipricating saw, chances are that you need the power at the cutting end and I cannot find that with cordless tools. Cordless tools will always have a place in my garage, but as a secondary and not primary tool of choice.
#4
These tools should be double-insulated or have a grounding wire. Heavy gloves (as much as eye protection) is the norm here where working in unknown territory.
I have 2 cordless drills (flashlights are not tools to me) and see no point in them in tools that use saw blades, lacking in power and consistency compared to the corded variety.
At the price of the Milwaukee Hatchet, its value is low for merely a recip saw (unless your job depended on it). The corded Milwaukee Sawzall is the standard in this category.
I have 2 cordless drills (flashlights are not tools to me) and see no point in them in tools that use saw blades, lacking in power and consistency compared to the corded variety.
At the price of the Milwaukee Hatchet, its value is low for merely a recip saw (unless your job depended on it). The corded Milwaukee Sawzall is the standard in this category.
#5
I bought a #27501 Sears Craftsman 6.5 Amp reciprocating saw.
I needed to do some exhaust work on a holiday weekend and had to get done quickly. I was messing with cutting it by hand and I decided to borrow my neighbor's recip saw (an older 6A Craftsman Industrial).
In ten seconds the old part fell to the ground. I was hooked. Went out and bought the above mentioned saw for 75 bucks on sale and with various coupons Sears has.
After doing some research, I learned that my Sears is actually a DeWalt/B&D in disguise...looks to me to be the same one that sells for about 99 bucks at Home Depot. Anything Sears with a model # starting with "900" is a B&D/DeWalt in disguise.
The first time I used that thing to hack some rotted fenceposts in
half it paid for itself.
Well worth the bucks. I have a corded one. My friend has a Dewalt cordless value pack (4 pieces) he told me he bought through Harbor Freight. It was reconditioned. We did some faucets in my house and had to cut out the old piping. His saw ate through the pipe like butter..you couldn't tell it was cordless.
I think either is OK, but my saw came with the saw, a case, five blades, gloves, goggles and a 25ft. cord all for that price above. I believe Sears still sells it and it's on sale.
I needed to do some exhaust work on a holiday weekend and had to get done quickly. I was messing with cutting it by hand and I decided to borrow my neighbor's recip saw (an older 6A Craftsman Industrial).
In ten seconds the old part fell to the ground. I was hooked. Went out and bought the above mentioned saw for 75 bucks on sale and with various coupons Sears has.
After doing some research, I learned that my Sears is actually a DeWalt/B&D in disguise...looks to me to be the same one that sells for about 99 bucks at Home Depot. Anything Sears with a model # starting with "900" is a B&D/DeWalt in disguise.
The first time I used that thing to hack some rotted fenceposts in
half it paid for itself.
Well worth the bucks. I have a corded one. My friend has a Dewalt cordless value pack (4 pieces) he told me he bought through Harbor Freight. It was reconditioned. We did some faucets in my house and had to cut out the old piping. His saw ate through the pipe like butter..you couldn't tell it was cordless.
I think either is OK, but my saw came with the saw, a case, five blades, gloves, goggles and a 25ft. cord all for that price above. I believe Sears still sells it and it's on sale.
#6
Corded or cordless?
A telephone utility that I service has recently declared computer switchrooms off limits to corded tools. In shopping around for a cordless recip saw I was tempted to buy a Black and Decker Firestorm which is the bottom of the barrel in terms of quality.
A visit to my favorite second hand shop netted me a BRAND NEW Milwaukee 18volt recip with a spare battery for less than the B&D.
This tool has become my favorite. With the two batteries, I have not yet had a commercial job that the charger could not keep up.
Also it has the same, if not more cutting power than my corded Milwaukee.
For homeowner use the only drawback is the fact that the batteries will loose their charge if they sit for extended periods.
Might not be a problem though, 'cause you might find yourself pulling it out more times than you think.
A visit to my favorite second hand shop netted me a BRAND NEW Milwaukee 18volt recip with a spare battery for less than the B&D.
This tool has become my favorite. With the two batteries, I have not yet had a commercial job that the charger could not keep up.
Also it has the same, if not more cutting power than my corded Milwaukee.
For homeowner use the only drawback is the fact that the batteries will loose their charge if they sit for extended periods.
Might not be a problem though, 'cause you might find yourself pulling it out more times than you think.