DSC PC1550 Zone 3 on and never used alarm
#1
07-08-04, 03:22 PM
DSC PC1550 Zone 3 on and never used alarm
Hi Folks,
I have a DSC PC1550 alarm system that I have never used.(was in the house when I purchased it. I know the phone lines are not connected in the security panel. I do not think the previous owners have used it either. I changed the battery in it the other day with info from your webpage(install manual and operator manual). Thanks.
The zone 3 light has been on for 3 years and have never worried about it. I would now try to use the alarm without paying for the 75 dollar service call ranger american told me it would cost to bring a guy out. I have tried the default installers code from the manual but it didnt work and I am not sure why the zone 3 light is on. I have not tried the system reset as described in some of your threads. I guess if I am able to do this, it would mean reprogramming all of the zones and other features. I do not want the system monotored by the company but would like to use it for my own security and peace of mind. I also do not see where an alarm siren is. Does it work off my electric smoke alarms? Could you please help? Thanks, Afishy1
I have a DSC PC1550 alarm system that I have never used.(was in the house when I purchased it. I know the phone lines are not connected in the security panel. I do not think the previous owners have used it either. I changed the battery in it the other day with info from your webpage(install manual and operator manual). Thanks.
The zone 3 light has been on for 3 years and have never worried about it. I would now try to use the alarm without paying for the 75 dollar service call ranger american told me it would cost to bring a guy out. I have tried the default installers code from the manual but it didnt work and I am not sure why the zone 3 light is on. I have not tried the system reset as described in some of your threads. I guess if I am able to do this, it would mean reprogramming all of the zones and other features. I do not want the system monotored by the company but would like to use it for my own security and peace of mind. I also do not see where an alarm siren is. Does it work off my electric smoke alarms? Could you please help? Thanks, Afishy1
#2
07-08-04, 05:35 PM
Well, first of all, have you tried the default Master Code to see if it works? 1234
If it doesn't work, then you'll have to try to hardware reset the system, since you can't do anything without the Master Code anyway.
If the default code works, then you can move on to trying to find out what Zone 3 is. Make sure you look everywhere (inside the control panel, on the keypad, any possible paperwork you may have?) If you can't find it, then let us know and we'll try to figure out what it is. You'll want to start by checking all the doors to see which zones they are (in other words, figure out what the other zones are, then that eliminates some possibilities.) If there's a door that doesn't activate a zone, more than likely it's Zone 3 (and it's not working.)
See what you can do with that info, and post back to let us know how it's going.
If it doesn't work, then you'll have to try to hardware reset the system, since you can't do anything without the Master Code anyway.
If the default code works, then you can move on to trying to find out what Zone 3 is. Make sure you look everywhere (inside the control panel, on the keypad, any possible paperwork you may have?) If you can't find it, then let us know and we'll try to figure out what it is. You'll want to start by checking all the doors to see which zones they are (in other words, figure out what the other zones are, then that eliminates some possibilities.) If there's a door that doesn't activate a zone, more than likely it's Zone 3 (and it's not working.)
See what you can do with that info, and post back to let us know how it's going.
#3
07-09-04, 08:03 PM
dsc pc1550
Hi Brandon,
I did the factory reset to default. The default code and installer code works. now all zones 1 thru 6 are lit. I tried setting the zones using the 00,01 binary codes and they are still lit. when i hit # key, all zones are lit and I cant get system ready to arm. I know where all zones go, including entry doors.
Any ideas????
I did the factory reset to default. The default code and installer code works. now all zones 1 thru 6 are lit. I tried setting the zones using the 00,01 binary codes and they are still lit. when i hit # key, all zones are lit and I cant get system ready to arm. I know where all zones go, including entry doors.
Any ideas????
#4
07-10-04, 09:08 AM
Option 12, turn #5 on. That's NC loops (no EOL resistors.) Not the best way to install a system, but it works. If you want to use EOL's (this will provide line supervision - line cuts, shorts, etc.) then you need to put the resistors at the end of each line. But, to just get the system working correctly again, turn on #5 in option 12.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#5
07-10-04, 11:34 AM
Hi Brandon,
I did what you said and it worked except now I still have the original problem of zone 3 light on. Zone 3 is for my kitchen windows and back door. I have checked all the sensors in the windows and door and they are all in place.
I do appreciate your help. Thanks for your patience. What is next???
Thanks,
Afishy1
I did what you said and it worked except now I still have the original problem of zone 3 light on. Zone 3 is for my kitchen windows and back door. I have checked all the sensors in the windows and door and they are all in place.
I do appreciate your help. Thanks for your patience. What is next???
Thanks,
Afishy1
#6
07-12-04, 12:36 PM
First rule of thumb when troubleshooting: Start with the easiest solution first.
So, check out the magnets in the doors and windows, make sure they are still in and lined-up properly. If you want to take another magnet and go around touching it to the contact (the part in the sill/frame), you may get lucky and find the culprit (just make sure the other doors/windows on that zone are closed.) If that doesn't work, set a magnet on each contact (just to make there's not 2 that are bad/misaligned.)
If that doesn't work, the next thing to do is pull the contact out and bypass it (very easy to do, just cross the wires on each contact to bypass them.) If you have a bad contact, you'll find it quickly this way.
You may also want to check the panel, just to make sure it's not bad. To do that, just take a pair of pliers and cross the Z3 terminal with the COM terminal. You should close that loop, if not, the panel's Z3 terminal is bad.
Just work your way around, see if you can find the culprit - hopefully you don't have a bad wire. If you want to check that, then cross the wires at the first contact (probably the closest one to the panel) and then check continuity at the panel on that wire (disconnect at least one leg from the panel first.)
Depending on the house, and the contacts used, there are several methods for troubleshooting. Just don't make your job harder than it has to be, work on the easiest solutions first.
Let me know if you need more help.
So, check out the magnets in the doors and windows, make sure they are still in and lined-up properly. If you want to take another magnet and go around touching it to the contact (the part in the sill/frame), you may get lucky and find the culprit (just make sure the other doors/windows on that zone are closed.) If that doesn't work, set a magnet on each contact (just to make there's not 2 that are bad/misaligned.)
If that doesn't work, the next thing to do is pull the contact out and bypass it (very easy to do, just cross the wires on each contact to bypass them.) If you have a bad contact, you'll find it quickly this way.
You may also want to check the panel, just to make sure it's not bad. To do that, just take a pair of pliers and cross the Z3 terminal with the COM terminal. You should close that loop, if not, the panel's Z3 terminal is bad.
Just work your way around, see if you can find the culprit - hopefully you don't have a bad wire. If you want to check that, then cross the wires at the first contact (probably the closest one to the panel) and then check continuity at the panel on that wire (disconnect at least one leg from the panel first.)
Depending on the house, and the contacts used, there are several methods for troubleshooting. Just don't make your job harder than it has to be, work on the easiest solutions first.
Let me know if you need more help.
