Master re-set problems
#1
Master re-set problems
hi,
i've an aritech cs350 which refuses to perform master reset after removing JP1 on board. It's also locked to an unknown engineers code and wont accept 01278.
2nd problem is that lcd is shown certain zones as permanently open.
Any ideas?!!!
Podge
i've an aritech cs350 which refuses to perform master reset after removing JP1 on board. It's also locked to an unknown engineers code and wont accept 01278.
2nd problem is that lcd is shown certain zones as permanently open.
Any ideas?!!!
Podge
#2
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 2,627
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Very simple solution to your problem - replace it. It's not worth messing with, you've tried everything you can, there's no hope for it. It sounds like the system may be burned-in anyway, so just get rid of it.
For about $150, you can get a new GE Concord Express with programming keypad. You can reuse your contacts and sensors, but you will have to replace the panel and keypad(s).
Good luck!
For about $150, you can get a new GE Concord Express with programming keypad. You can reuse your contacts and sensors, but you will have to replace the panel and keypad(s).
Good luck!
#4
Forum Topic Moderator
I'm afraid Brandon's right. I service and reset a lot of older panels. This is one on the "more trouble than it's worth" list. Sometimes we have to let the Second law of Thermodynamics have it's way.
As far as the zone issue. You may well have one or more bad contacts, or a bad motion, or something as simple as a missing magnet or two. A lot depends on your available tools and investigative instincts. (Also, how the zones were wired). If all openings homeran back to the panel location, toubleshooting is a snap, you just test continuity on each pair of wires, then figure out which opening corresponds to that particular pair. If they were run "daisy chain" (a single continuous loop), it's a little more tedious and involved.
As far as the zone issue. You may well have one or more bad contacts, or a bad motion, or something as simple as a missing magnet or two. A lot depends on your available tools and investigative instincts. (Also, how the zones were wired). If all openings homeran back to the panel location, toubleshooting is a snap, you just test continuity on each pair of wires, then figure out which opening corresponds to that particular pair. If they were run "daisy chain" (a single continuous loop), it's a little more tedious and involved.
#5
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 2,627
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
This is one on the "more trouble than it's worth" list
If you want a cheaper solution - replace it, but buy your components on eBay instead. Just be careful who you buy from, eBay can be good and it can just cause you more trouble than you already have.
Whatever you do, don't buy an old ADT or Brinks panel, buy something new and unlocked.
Good luck!