I am an alarm virgin, and need to figure out a couple of things. 1 is where to hook uo the strobe light for outside. The other is how to hook up siren, the third is how to hook up the wireless reciever, and the forth is the wired keypads and how to program them. Let me remind you I do have the manual, but it is not very understandable for someone who has never done this before. Thank you a bunch!!!!!

 

Ok, do read through the first third of the manual carefully. DSC is not the best laid out, and does tend to put needful bits of info in odd places.

Both your 12v siren (not a speaker), and the strobe will go on the terminals marked "bell". These devices are polarity sensitive, so make sure that + and - are on their respective connections.

All of the keypads, and the wireless reciever will wire to the 4 keybus terminals. Simply match color for color. The markings on the keypads are easy to overlook, as they look very much like the PC board etching (which is how they did them).

Once you get it ready to power up, then you will be ready to slog through programming.

 

So the wires of the 2 key pads and the wireless transmitter can all be packed into the one keybus area? And the strobe on the same as the siren, right? Now that i have all that connected, how do I start off programing it. I just have 5 wireless door window sensors, 1 wireless motion sensor, and one wired motion sensor. I am putting it all in a 1500sqft home. I do not need different zones or wahat ever they are called because I do not know how to keep up with that stuff. I just want to be able to program it, and be able to maintane it. The other thing I forgot to ask is, how do I hook up this phone jack. It has the wires on it, and I think I know where they go, but i am not sur....Plus it does not look like a regular phone line would go into it. That is a confusing looking jack. Thanks

 

The RJ 31x phone jack is important. Properly wired it allows the alarm to take control of the phone lines to dial out without someone keeping the system from dialing out by simply taking a phone off the hook. If your system is not to be monitored, then tuck the jack and it's parts into the system cabinet, and don't worry with it. If you are going to use the dialer, you need at least 4 conductors from the jack to your telephone interface. You connect the two incoming lines to the red/green terminals on the jack, then two outgoing to the brown/grey terminals on the jack. The outgoing wires are what sends a dialtone to the rest of the house.

Basically, the wireless receiver is addressed by the system as a keypad, most systems use the keypad input for most optional add ons.

First, you follow the instructions for the wireless reciever to enroll all of the wireless devices. Then you have to configure the devices as zones. With wireless devices, each device is a zone, and your hardwired device will be a zone. Your entry doors will have to be set as entry/exit zones, and your motions as stay/away zones, everything else is a perimeter zone (unless you are trying to do something unusual).

 

Ok, now when tour talking about the incoming and outgoing wires from the phone jack, you mean to hok those four up to the terminals in the box, right, Well, will a regular phone line connect to that jack? It looks like it is too big, and like most phone jacks that have (inside of them where the phone cord goes into) 4 - 6 little copper contacts, this has about 10 or more, and no phone cord I have has that many. Thanks again, and sorry, like I said, I am a alarm virgin when it comes to these.

 

Hookay... The wires coming into the RJ-31X jack I referred to are those coming from your incoming telephone interface for the residence. Two wires have to come in from and the other two will return the dialtone to the rest of the house telephones. The jack connects to the alarm panel using the patch cord that comes with the RJ-31x jack. It has a connector on one end that looks like a computer ethernet cable (RJ-45). The other end will have wire terminal ends. The only 4 that normally get used are red, green, grey, and brown.

Again, if your alarm is not monitored, this isn't an issue, because it's not going to call anywhere.

 

I understand hooking it up now...I think, but where do you get the wire to use to transmit the calls that hooks up to the jack when it looks like it is only capable of holding ethernet wire? Thanks

 

If there isn't one already in the box (it sounds like you have a system that had the jack installed, but the installer didn't leave the patch cord), you can get the cord from anyone who deals in alarm hardware. Heck, most installers have a fistfull of the cords lying in a box in their truck (the jacks are more likely to go bad than the cords). If they even charged you for it, I'd be rather surprised.

If you were a little more tech savvy, you could cut the end off of a regular ethernet patch cable and it would work, but you would need to figure out the correct wires to use (the two in the center, and the two on the outside pins).

 

Oh OK, i got the patch cord. So what I would do then, is get a piece of phone wire, and wire it to the jack. Then plug the patch into the jack and wire it to the box, or the other way around? I am sorry about bothering you with all of this, but when it comes to Alarm Systems, I am a flat liner.....LOL

 

And I forgot to tell you, that the jack and patch cord are just laying in the box. None are hooked up yet. Just to let you know. i don't know if that will matte or not, but just some info. Thanks again

 

If the house was pre-wired properly, there is at least a 4 conductor wire that goes back to where your phone lines enter the house (your NID). That wire would wire to the jack; the cord gets connected to the proper terminals on the panel. At the other end of the wire going back to the NID is where the final connections are made, with all of the incoming and house feed connections.

It's kind of hard to visualize if you've never done it
Try this page: http://www.safewatchservice.com/phon...65844ff9199779

 

Thanks so much for the web site. That helps. If you know of any more sites that would help with installation of the 832, coul you send them my way/ That would be awsome. Every little bit of info is a BIG help. You have been a great guy, in helping me with my problems. Thanks again, and I will check back to see if there was any other sites. Thanks Ron.

Chris

P.s. So I splice into the phone line that is coming into the house or run a new one to the NID, and wire it to the jack. Then plug in the plug that came with it, and wire the end of that to the box? Would it be easier to just get a BW-1 or BW-3?

 

I have it all wired up, but is what I said right? Figured I would ask before connecting. Shoud it of been spliced or ran directly? I figured ran directly. Should I use one of those adapters to make things smoother? Thanks

 

Going to wire it up today. Hope I am right.

 

Let me know if I am not right so I do not need to re Wire. Thanks guys. Merry Christmas, Hapy New Year :wmann3: :gespann:

 

The Better Way products are just an easier way of achieving line seizure. They are not really necessary. I sell a few every now and then.

If you ran the wire to the NID, then you did it right. It's not absolutely necessary to home run the wire to the NID, but it generally makes for a cleaner, better install. And, it's much easier to achieve line seizure using that method.

Good luck!

 

Alright guys, i got the jack installed. i hooked up the rest today, and ean in to a couple of problems. I was wondering if you could help me out. 1st is the siren has 6 wires. 2 red 2 black and 2 yellow. I have no v=clue what to do with all of them. the bell circuit only has a + and - hook up. Where do the rest go? 2nd is when I got it all hooked up and pluged it in, the trouble light was on. I have no Idea how to program the damn thing. It is A LOT harder than I thought it would be, and the book does not help at all. I wish they could of made it a little more simple. When I checked the trouble light, it was for codes 1-8 I think. I also have the wireless transmitter hooked up, but it will not fit in the box with the antennas. Is it ok to put outside of the box? I will pay you if you can give me step by step on how to program this thing in simple english instead of what this manual gives me. I am really upset with this purchase, because I spent over $500 to get an alarm that i could put in with out paying Installers fees and a monthly contract fee if I do not want it. PLEASE HELP ME. I am so angry with this right now, i am very close to breaking everything because i feel that I waisted my money. Thanks Guys!!

 

"Alright guys, i got the jack installed. i hooked up the rest today, and ean in to a couple of problems. I was wondering if you could help me out. 1st is the siren has 6 wires. 2 red 2 black and 2 yellow. I have no v=clue what to do with all of them. the bell circuit only has a + and - hook up."

Just take it one step at a time. Look at the back of the siren, or the packaging it came in. You probably have a multitone siren. You have a couple of commons, a "steady" and a "yelp". The common will go to negative, either the steady _or_ the yelp will go to positive. Without seeing what you have, or the instructions that you have available, it's hard to give you accurate information. Basically, out of that whole mess, you will only be using 2 of the six, the others will just be taped off so that they can't short or ground out.

"Where do the rest go? 2nd is when I got it all hooked up and pluged it in, the trouble light was on. I have no Idea how to program the damn thing."

This is the hard part about DSC. I can tell that you are a little overwhelmed by their manual. They are _not_ installer friendly, even for us that deal with them frequently. That said, the instructions are in there, starting on page 19 with the chapter heading "How to Program".

It is normal for the system to start up in trouble. It has to have the time set, battery installed, and supervision set for the modules, among other things

"It is A LOT harder than I thought it would be, and the book does not help at all. I wish they could of made it a little more simple."

This is one of the more flexible (i.e. complex) comsumer panels on the market. They have a _lot_ of options.

"I also have the wireless transmitter hooked up, but it will not fit in the box with the antennas. Is it ok to put outside of the box? "

Yup, you can mount that puppy on the other end of the house, if need be. Thats why it has it's own case (or should). However, the wireless is the last thing to set up. You don't add it to the system until you get everything else working (otherwise, there's another layer of complication). That's straight out of the install manual for the wireless unit.

I know that the manual is full of technobabble. Unfortunately, nearly _all_ security system manuals are written that way (you _don't_ want to tackle a fire alarm manual). Use the step by step that's in the front of the install manual. Get your mechanical installation done _first_. You cannot get very far trying to skip steps. If you get stuck on a step, ask us about the specific step, and we can help you translate DSC speak into something resembling normal english.

 

Ok, you are right on the siren. i have 2 common, 2 steady, and 2 yelp. What is the differnce between steady and yelp? Which one should I hook up? The siren did not come with one set of directions at all, nor is there any on the box. And about the wireless module.....I should get everything else hooked up first you said. But all my sensors are wireless, so it will be a little difficult to program with out that hooked up, right? Man, this is sooooooo hard. The seller of course said I would not have a problem programing it......He said women do it all the time, and men usualy have no problem. So being a man, and knowing electronics fairly well, i thought programing would be a breeze.......Ha......I was sooooo wrong. Thanks to you guys, i am slowly getting through it, but if it were not for you all, i think it would just sit on the wall with wires dangling out of the box. Thanks again guys!!!

 

The other thing was on the back of the key pads there is a red, green, yellow and black, but also a 5th one for something. Do I need that, and do i need to use any of the resistors, because if I do, The resistors, are gonna really spin me for a loop. Thanks again

 

Is it ok to use the 22guage 4 conductor wire for the Wireless Module?

 

I'd use yelp. It's that rapid hi-low sound most people associate with an alarm. If you want to test it, you can just touch the common(-) and yelp(+) wire to the battery terminals. I'd use earplugs, though, those things are in the 100db or better range.

The z terminal on the keypad is for an extra zone input. You don't have to do anything with it. It has a number of uses, but for now it's just a spare feature.

For this system, you do have the option of turning off the need for the zone resistors. I'ts up to you, since it sounds like you have prewired contacts already in place, you can't easily put them at the ends of the loops anyway.

22-4 is just fine. Basically, that wireless module is seen by the system as another keypad, for all intent's and purposes.