Ademco 20P zone faults never reset


  #1  
Old 07-01-05, 08:59 PM
meredith
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Ademco 20P zone faults never reset

I just set up my Ademco 20P with 6160 keypad and it continuously has all zones faulted, I have checked all windows and doors and nothing is open. Is there something in the programming mode I need to check?
 
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Old 07-01-05, 09:59 PM
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meredith,

Do you have the resistors on all the zones?
 
  #3  
Old 07-01-05, 10:24 PM
meredith
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Yes I believe so.
 
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Old 07-02-05, 06:58 PM
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meredith,

Take 1 resistor and put it accross the zone without
the wire, and see if the zone restores.
 
  #5  
Old 07-02-05, 09:24 PM
meredith
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yes that restores it
 
  #6  
Old 07-02-05, 10:52 PM
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Then the problem resides in your loop wiring. It must be in "series" meaning from one zone screw in the panel - the wire goes out to one of the device screws or wires - the resistor comes out (connects to) the other screw or wire from the device and connects inline to the other wire and heads back to the panels other zone screw. This creates the "loop". Their is no polarity (well there actually is - but it's not particular to wire color) however I always pick a color and use it for all the resistors (I like green).

PS: ALL EOL resistors should be installed at the device - not in the can! (no matter what you may have seen) for the protection you are expecting.
Jim
 
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Old 07-02-05, 11:18 PM
meredith
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I put everything back the way it should be and now it says ready to arm, but when I open a door it does not show up as a fault. When I tested continuity at the box it does change when open or closed. What am I doing wrong? Is this a programming issue?
 
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Old 07-03-05, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by meredith
I put everything back the way it should be and now it says ready to arm, but when I open a door it does not show up as a fault. When I tested continuity at the box it does change when open or closed. What am I doing wrong? Is this a programming issue?
Could be if the zones are set to "not used". You say when you check continuity it reacts to the opening and closing? Then I would say their not programmed correctly, you need to check them thru *56 in programming and make sure their set to perimiter or entry exit (or what you want them to be).
Jim
 
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Old 07-03-05, 10:47 AM
meredith
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Here is what the zones are in *56

zn zt p rc hw:rt
01 09 1 10 el:1
02 01 3 10 el:1
03 01 3 10 el:1
04 03 3 10 el:1
05 03 3 10 el:1
06 01 3 10 el:0
07 03 3 10 el:1
08 03 3 10 el:1

I do not know what needs to be changed. It seems to me they are set correctly to entry/exit or perimeter. What am I missing?
 
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Old 07-03-05, 11:04 AM
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meredith,

When the resister is on the zone does the green light on the keypad
come on? And when you take the resistor off the zone does the green light go off?
 
  #11  
Old 07-03-05, 11:06 AM
meredith
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yes the light is on when resister is on the zone and off when resistor is off.
 
  #12  
Old 07-03-05, 11:17 AM
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meredith,

You have partition 3 set up change them all to partition 1
 
  #13  
Old 07-03-05, 11:55 AM
meredith
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I changed them to partition 1, and now zones 2 through 8 are defaults, not ready to arm.
 
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Old 07-03-05, 12:03 PM
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meredith,

Lets start from scratch, take the resistors and put each one across each zone without the wires from zone 2 to zone 8 and tell me if the zones are restored.
 
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Old 07-03-05, 12:17 PM
meredith
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The zones are restored with the resistor in place and wires removed.
 
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Old 07-03-05, 12:40 PM
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meredith,

Now put 1 wire back on zone 2 in series with the resistor, is the zone still restored?
 
  #17  
Old 07-03-05, 12:47 PM
meredith
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I placed one wire back on zone 2 with the resistor, the zone is still restored.
 
  #18  
Old 07-03-05, 12:53 PM
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meredith,

Now remove the resistor with the wire still attatched, does the ready light go out?
 
  #19  
Old 07-03-05, 01:07 PM
meredith
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I removed the resistor and only left 1 wire attached, the ready light is out and zone 2 is defaulted.
 
  #20  
Old 07-03-05, 01:19 PM
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meredith,

Now put the wire back on the zone with the resistor, the zone should be restored, open the door or window thats on that zone and see if the zone is faulted.
 
  #21  
Old 07-03-05, 01:40 PM
meredith
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I placed the wire back on the zone with the resistor and the zone restored. I opened the door and the zone does not fault.
 
  #22  
Old 07-03-05, 01:47 PM
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meredith,

Your problem is either in the wire or the switch, make sure the resistor is on 1 terminal then the end of the resistor is attached to the wire, and the other end of the wire goes to the other terminal. Also make sure the switch on the door opens and closes with a meter. I have to go out for a couple of hours, when I come back I will check on you.
 
  #23  
Old 07-03-05, 02:00 PM
meredith
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I placed the resistor on the low terminal and attached the green wire to the resistor. I placed the red wire on the other terminal. The zone is not faulted. I then opened the door and the zone is now faulted.

I think I had the wrong wire before, sorry.

The switch on the door is working
 
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Old 07-03-05, 03:39 PM
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meredith,

So everything is working OK?
 
  #25  
Old 07-03-05, 03:57 PM
meredith
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It only works if I have the resistor hooked up on the board, is that how it is supposed to be?
 
  #26  
Old 07-03-05, 05:33 PM
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meredith,


YES
 
  #27  
Old 07-03-05, 06:14 PM
meredith
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Seems kinda cheesy, but if this is right, that is how I will do it.

I really appreciate all of your help!
Thank you
 
  #28  
Old 07-03-05, 07:38 PM
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meredith,

Theres a reason for the resistor, if you put the resistor at the end of the line where the switch is, the wire is protected against someone shorting that circuit. And you can use the resistor in Parallel then you can use an open circuit switch, for a fire alarm circuit.
 
  #29  
Old 07-03-05, 09:22 PM
meredith
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As I know nothing about electronics, I have a stupid question.
My system is in a pre-wired new home. When they installed all of the switches in the doors and windows, etc. wouldn't the resistors be placed at the end of the line, not in the box?? I thought that the resistor would not be attached to the zone terminal. Does this question make sense?
 
  #30  
Old 07-04-05, 07:09 AM
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meredith,

It's always better to put the resistors at the end of the line rather then in the control panel, but in a residence it does'nt look to good. And some installers just cant be bothered putting them at the end of the circuit.
 
  #31  
Old 07-04-05, 10:15 AM
meredith
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I guess we just make do with what we have, right?
The system appears to be working just fine.
I want to thank you for all of your help. I really appreciate your time and patience.
Thank you again,
Meredith
 
  #32  
Old 07-05-05, 12:36 PM
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The other reason is that in a prewire situation, you do not know the final hardware, and nearly every brand uses a different EOL resistor size. You can actually special order contacts with appropriatly sized resistors built in.
 
 

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