Ademco 20P zone faults never reset
#1
Ademco 20P zone faults never reset
I just set up my Ademco 20P with 6160 keypad and it continuously has all zones faulted, I have checked all windows and doors and nothing is open. Is there something in the programming mode I need to check?
#6
Then the problem resides in your loop wiring. It must be in "series" meaning from one zone screw in the panel - the wire goes out to one of the device screws or wires - the resistor comes out (connects to) the other screw or wire from the device and connects inline to the other wire and heads back to the panels other zone screw. This creates the "loop". Their is no polarity (well there actually is - but it's not particular to wire color) however I always pick a color and use it for all the resistors (I like green).
PS: ALL EOL resistors should be installed at the device - not in the can! (no matter what you may have seen) for the protection you are expecting.
Jim
PS: ALL EOL resistors should be installed at the device - not in the can! (no matter what you may have seen) for the protection you are expecting.

Jim
#7
I put everything back the way it should be and now it says ready to arm, but when I open a door it does not show up as a fault. When I tested continuity at the box it does change when open or closed. What am I doing wrong? Is this a programming issue?
#8
Originally Posted by meredith
I put everything back the way it should be and now it says ready to arm, but when I open a door it does not show up as a fault. When I tested continuity at the box it does change when open or closed. What am I doing wrong? Is this a programming issue?
Jim
#9
Here is what the zones are in *56
zn zt p rc hw:rt
01 09 1 10 el:1
02 01 3 10 el:1
03 01 3 10 el:1
04 03 3 10 el:1
05 03 3 10 el:1
06 01 3 10 el:0
07 03 3 10 el:1
08 03 3 10 el:1
I do not know what needs to be changed. It seems to me they are set correctly to entry/exit or perimeter. What am I missing?
zn zt p rc hw:rt
01 09 1 10 el:1
02 01 3 10 el:1
03 01 3 10 el:1
04 03 3 10 el:1
05 03 3 10 el:1
06 01 3 10 el:0
07 03 3 10 el:1
08 03 3 10 el:1
I do not know what needs to be changed. It seems to me they are set correctly to entry/exit or perimeter. What am I missing?
#14
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meredith,
Lets start from scratch, take the resistors and put each one across each zone without the wires from zone 2 to zone 8 and tell me if the zones are restored.
Lets start from scratch, take the resistors and put each one across each zone without the wires from zone 2 to zone 8 and tell me if the zones are restored.
#20
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meredith,
Now put the wire back on the zone with the resistor, the zone should be restored, open the door or window thats on that zone and see if the zone is faulted.
Now put the wire back on the zone with the resistor, the zone should be restored, open the door or window thats on that zone and see if the zone is faulted.
#22
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meredith,
Your problem is either in the wire or the switch, make sure the resistor is on 1 terminal then the end of the resistor is attached to the wire, and the other end of the wire goes to the other terminal. Also make sure the switch on the door opens and closes with a meter. I have to go out for a couple of hours, when I come back I will check on you.
Your problem is either in the wire or the switch, make sure the resistor is on 1 terminal then the end of the resistor is attached to the wire, and the other end of the wire goes to the other terminal. Also make sure the switch on the door opens and closes with a meter. I have to go out for a couple of hours, when I come back I will check on you.
#23
I placed the resistor on the low terminal and attached the green wire to the resistor. I placed the red wire on the other terminal. The zone is not faulted. I then opened the door and the zone is now faulted.
I think I had the wrong wire before, sorry.
The switch on the door is working
I think I had the wrong wire before, sorry.
The switch on the door is working
#28
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meredith,
Theres a reason for the resistor, if you put the resistor at the end of the line where the switch is, the wire is protected against someone shorting that circuit. And you can use the resistor in Parallel then you can use an open circuit switch, for a fire alarm circuit.
Theres a reason for the resistor, if you put the resistor at the end of the line where the switch is, the wire is protected against someone shorting that circuit. And you can use the resistor in Parallel then you can use an open circuit switch, for a fire alarm circuit.
#29
As I know nothing about electronics, I have a stupid question.
My system is in a pre-wired new home. When they installed all of the switches in the doors and windows, etc. wouldn't the resistors be placed at the end of the line, not in the box?? I thought that the resistor would not be attached to the zone terminal. Does this question make sense?
My system is in a pre-wired new home. When they installed all of the switches in the doors and windows, etc. wouldn't the resistors be placed at the end of the line, not in the box?? I thought that the resistor would not be attached to the zone terminal. Does this question make sense?
#30
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meredith,
It's always better to put the resistors at the end of the line rather then in the control panel, but in a residence it does'nt look to good. And some installers just cant be bothered putting them at the end of the circuit.
It's always better to put the resistors at the end of the line rather then in the control panel, but in a residence it does'nt look to good. And some installers just cant be bothered putting them at the end of the circuit.
#32
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The other reason is that in a prewire situation, you do not know the final hardware, and nearly every brand uses a different EOL resistor size. You can actually special order contacts with appropriatly sized resistors built in.