Hi everyone; I'm a newbie and I'd like for someone to put me on the right track regarding my security system.

Three days ago lighting stroke a house down the street from mine and fried my cable modem/digital telephone system at home (TimeWarner in Houston,TX). At the same time, my alarm system (disarmed at the time) started sounding off and on. Is the same sound when it goes off due to burglary, only but constanly goes off and on.

As I mention on the subject, the system is an ADT Safewatch Pro/Security Manager 3000 which is not being monitored at the time because I'm switching to TimeWarner for its monotoring from ADT. I pulled the User's Guide in order to try to troubleshoot it to get rid of the anoidying sound, but I found nothing...so I disconnect to red wires going to the panel and battery in order to silence it, and it did. I noticed that there is also a "clicking" sound coming from the panel board, but I have not been able to figure out what it is exactly. Also, TimeWarner has replaced phone modem and the phone is now operating; so I plugged the two red wires right where they were but the alarm sound does not go away; so I left them unplugged, and the "clickling" still goes on.

BTW, the keypad (touchpad) is lighted, but there is not beeping sounds (when I press the keys) or green/red (armed/disarmed) lights or messages on the display...I have three throughout the house and they all look dead.

Can someone out there help me troubleshoot this baby before I call ADT for service (and have them rape me)?

Your prompt help will be greatly appreciated.

Leo.

p.s. I also checked fuse and it's good.

 

The intermittant siren means that a fire alarm device tripped an alarm (they make a different siren pattern for Fire). It sounds like you unplugged the battery, but you did not actually power down the system.

The system seems to be stuck in fire alarm for some reason. Just unpluggin the battery doesn't actually shut it down. The clicking is probably the telephone relay trying to dial out. Assuming that you didn't disconnect anything else, you need to unplug one of the battery connections, then unplug the power pack that powers the system. Reconnect everything in the opposite order after waiting a minute. You should be able to disarm at that point. If not, let us know, you may have to start up to program mode to get it out of alarm.

If your system has smoke detectors, close lightning strikes have been known to damage the detectors so that they are stuck in alarm without actually showing an alarm telltale.

Not knowing what's actually connected to your system, or what optional features are turned on, that's my best guess.

 

Thanks for your prompt reply.

I've powered down the system per your instructions, but for other thatn a beep at the keypad, it still appears dead; no display or red/green lights. Also, it seems that the battery is also dead; I noticed it when I unplugged the main power. I'm getting a new one tonight.

It appears from the panel terminal, that the smoke dectectors are plugged to the panel as well; however, their red light is off.

I'll wait for further advice and thanks in advance.

Leo.

 

I'm guessing that you have lost the power supply. Is there 16vac at the first two terminals on the main board? Losing that transformer is pretty consistant for that kind of close lightning strike.

If you are lucky it only lost a fuse, but usually it's the transformer in cases like this.

This fit's the symptons, the system will not restart on battery power alone, and will often display odd false alarms on a failing battery.

 

Thanks again MrRonFL.

This is the lastest:

1. Checked incoming power supply at 1 & 2 and it read +/- 19v.

2. Took battery to Radio Shack and they advised it is good ~12v; fuse shows continuity.

3. Disconnected what I think is the smoke detectors (7 & 8) and no change what noted.

BTW, where is the transformer located (typically); or I'll have to trace it for this arrangement?

Everything remains as before...dead.

I'll sit tight and wait to hear from you soon; meantime, thanks in advance.

Leo.

 

The transformer input should be about 16VAC. If it is showing 18+ volts, this is often a sign that the power supply is not loading the transformer. A failed power supply on the panel board would not surprise me. A quick test is to check the DC voltage on the battery charger output and terminal 5 & 6. If there's not 12-13 vdc on both, then you have a dead panel.

Typically, the transfomers are plugged into an outlet somewhere on an adjacent wall. Odds are you have a piece of furniture in front of that outlet. Sometimes they are plugged into outlets located at the top of the attic access.

If this panel is alarming even with the smoke detectors removed from the input terminals, then the panel is very likely, well, terminal.

 

MrRonFL,

I got following readings:

Transformer output (not plugged to panel/wire pigtails): 19.8 vac
Battery charger (wires not plugged to battery): 16.8 vdc
Terminals 5&6 (with both power supply ac and battery plugged): 16.4 vdc

Please let me know if you have further recommendations.

Thanks,

Leo.

 

You have a problem. Those voltages are significantly higher than they should be. Normal DC voltage output shouldn't be more then about 13.5 vdc. Either your meter is out of calibration, or the panel power supply is badly damaged.

 

Okay, I just got me a brand new meter and I got the following readings:

Transformer output (not plugged to panel/wire pigtails): 18.3 vac
Battery charger (wires not plugged to battery): 13.5 vdc
Terminals 5&6 (with both power supply ac and battery plugged): 13.6 vdc

Any comments?

Thanks in advance,

Leo.

 

Indulge me. Power down the panel and within 30 seconds of power up, press 1 + 3 on the nearest keypad. This will display the keypad address. If the installation is typical, the three keypads should be adressed 16, 17 and 18. If they are showing 31 or lower than 16, or all with the same address, then what may have happened is that your keypad adresses got changed somehow.

Normally the smoke detectors are on zone one, but can be programmed onto any zone.

 

At last!!!!....I got something on the display; at the nearest keypad = 18; with the number "1" blinking.

Leo.

 

MrRonFL,

I've further checked the other two keypads, and one displayed 16 and the other 17.

I've also checked other posts but couldn't any guidence on what to do next.

I'll wait to hear from you and thanks in advance.

Leo.

 

Based on the information you are providing, I have to conclude that the transient damaged the system. You can try putting 2k resistors on the zone imputs (disconnecting the system loops). If the system goes into alarm and will not reset, then the motherboard is pretty likely shot. If it doesn't, then reconnect one zone at a time until the problem comes back, then troubleshoot that loop.

The only other possibility, is that one of your keypads is stuck in fire panic mode, but the disarm sequence would work.

 

MrRonFL and forum members,

How do I get the keypad to display something (i.e. status, zones, etc.)? Right now, it's blank and it stays lighted the whole time unless power is cutoff, and it only displays the keypad address (this is typical for all three 16, 17 & 18). Also, the red and green lights (armed/ready) are off.

Do I have to troubleshoot from ad=16 or it makes no difference. I've been doing it from 18 because it is the closest to be panel.

Will it be beneficial to check resistance across loop resistors? What will be their normal readings?

I'm sorry if I'm asking too much, but I'm going on vacation next week and I'd like to resolve this problem or call ADT for service before I leave.

I'll greatly appreciate your advise and take care,

Leo.

p.s. I'll be checking all loops per your previous advice this evening.

 

That's what makes me suspect that the control is damaged. It shouldn't matter which keypad you access from. If you press * you get system status, and normally the keypad will display the normal status display (i.e. "ready to arm" "not ready", "check XX").

Even it you have been poking around in the keypad programming, then the system will eventually default back to run mode. I don't think that the keypads are getting data from the control to display. They have power, but no information.

Basically, you are out of "simple fix territory".

 

[QUOTE=MrRonFL]
If your system has smoke detectors, close lightning strikes have been known to damage the detectors so that they are stuck in alarm without actually showing an alarm telltale.
QUOTE]

My home was hit by lightning, yesterday. Electronics from central a/c to intercom are now problematic. My ADT Safewatch Pro was unarmed when the storm hit, but nonetheless activated twice during the storm. I disarmed with my code and "off".

The system seems to be working properly, except it is flashing "112". The ready light is on, and the chime function works when doors are opened. The system will arm, but displays "112" intermittently.

Any advice would be most appreciated!

 

For a SW Pro 3000/Vista 20P

ALARM 1xx FAULT 1xx CHECK 1xx
indicates that communication between control and a zone expander or wireless
receiver is interrupted, where “xx” is the device address. Check the wiring and
DIP switch settings on the units.

If there are wireless sensors in the system, the Check condition may also be
caused by some change in the environment that prevents the receiver from
receiving signals from a particular sensor