Changing monitoring company? Help with configuration.

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Old 12-29-06, 11:42 AM
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Changing monitoring company? Help with configuration.

I am changing monitoring companies because I am very disappointed with my current one (who also installed the system). The paperwork for the new company needs to know what zones are connected. My installer never gave me this information. I do have the installer code.

Is there a way I can get a readout on what zones are connected? Any other advice what I should do? I would really like to know what I am working with for future reference.

My hardware is 2 LCD5501 keypads, 1 PC1555 board, 2 wireless smoke detectors, 3 door switches, and 1 window switch.

Thank you
 
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Old 12-29-06, 12:50 PM
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The new company should be able to dial into the alarm and see for themselves what zones are set up.

Wait for MrRon to chime in. He is EXTREMELY knowledgable with alarms.

Ron, I'm trying to boot your ego :-p
 
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Old 12-29-06, 03:28 PM
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With the keypad you have, if they didn't write out the zone chart for you, there's no way to simply retrieve the zones (very unprofessional, that).

The simple way to sort out your zones is to sit at the keypad, and have a helper open one door or window at a time and write down which zone it's associated with. For the smoke detectors, either call the current monitoring center and put the system on test, or simply unplug the phone (which may have an alarm associated with it), and trip them one at a time (they have test buttons, or you can use an incense stick).

Once you have that done, you will have a zone chart that you can write on the little slide out card on the keypad.

About the only other thing will be the non alarm reports, which on most installations are only things like low battery.
 
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Old 12-30-06, 05:34 AM
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Follow-up to determine zone configuration

Thanks for replies.

I will do as MrRon recommends. I'll first call the monitoring company to inform them of the 'test'. A few more questions

1. How do I 'silence' the audio alarm while tripping the zone alarms? My neighbors and cats would probably appreciate this.

2. I have two keypads - one by the entry door and one upstairs in the master bedroom. The manual says they are assigned slots. Is there a way to tell which slots they are assigned to or is there a rule of thumb? I remember my installer telling me that the clock display on one doesn't light up because of the wireless capability (smoke detectors) of that one.

3. To run the test to determine what is connected where, I assume I need to arm the system and trip each monitoring point. The zone associated with the trip will be displayed at the keypad?

Again, thanks to all for helping.
 
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Old 12-30-06, 08:32 AM
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Put a load on the siren output in place of the siren connection (I have a 12 volt automotive test light I use for this, a 5.6k ohm resistor will work as well.)

For this purpose, the keypad slots don't matter.

You don't need to arm the system, just turn on the door chime function and look at the keypad display to see which zone shows open as you open and close things.

The clock display isn't on on the wireless keypad, most likely because the installer couldn't figure out the setup instructions, or was in a hurry and didn't bother. The wireless and the clock functions of the keypad are independent of each other.
 
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Old 02-19-07, 08:32 PM
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How to find wireless smoke zone?

Thanks to all for the feedback. I finally got around to working through the manual and found all of my wired zones and set their attributes correctly. The wireless smokes don't seem to be monitored? How can I get the system to recognize them? I have a DSC 5501Z pad. I have no literature on the smokes.

When I do a [903] to display modules, I get 1, 2, and 17. Does anyone know what the 2 is? I understand the 1 is the keypad and 17 is the wireless.

Thank you
 

Last edited by gooned; 02-19-07 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Incorrect information
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Old 02-20-07, 01:48 PM
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Are you sure these smokes are for the alarm pad? I just recently got around to test mine, and it turns out they were not for the alarm pad at all. They were just hardwired in for 120v.
 
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