Which keypad to program 4110xm board?

Hi,

I have a vista 10 board in my house and use an alpha keypad to program it and have a DSC board in the detached garage. The DSC is fried, so I figured I'd take an old 4110xm board i have and put it in the garage with a fixed english 6128. i assummed the alpha I had for my vista10 would program the 4110xm board but it doesnt.
What key pad programs the 4110xm boards?

JW

 

The 4110 programs with the fixed-english (6128) keypad. There was a alpha keypad for these (5330), but they are hard to come by.

 

Hmm..That sounds good then. Looks like I already have all I need. I tried to get the vista10se board (at the house) programmed and managed to understand a lot after researching manuals and installers programming guides. Ultimatately though I had to get someone to do it. I just get lost in the zones and how to set them up properly. The rest of the options can just go to default as far as I'm concerned...but I need to set up my zones to be able to get anywhere.
Is that subject to complicated to try an illustrate to a layman? This garage has 2 exit doors, 4 windows and a garage (for car) door: all of which are sensored. In addition there is one motion detector.

 

It's not really that complex. The phaseology used in the manuals can be confusing, but the essence is:

Connect the physical wiring of your zones to the zone inputs on the motherboard and make note of what zones are in which physical location.

In this case, for example, you have 6 zones to work with.

I would put the 2 entry doors on zone 1, the motion on zone 2, put the windows from half of the structure on zone 3, the other windows on zone 4, and garage door on zone 5. Put a dummy resistor on zone 6.

Looking at the zone programming for a 4110xm (sections *31-36)
*31 would be 1 (entry/exit), *32 would be 4 (interior follower), 33, 34, & 35 would be 3 (perimeter), and 36 would be 0 (disabled).

Basically you define how you want the zone input to react to an activation.

 

I'm starting to get some results now but I told you wrong first. My windows are'nt sensored, so I just have 4 zone wires coming into the box. They are front door, back door, overhead garage door and motion. I was'nt sure if your message would be differant if this is the case so I figured I'd check with you.

I managed to get the front door and motion to respond, but the back door and overhead door are still lame. Like I said I'm very layman on all this but am getting closer. I'm foggy about the resistors and how they're crimped onto each zones wire (it was previously wired for a DSC) and how they go in line......but I think I'm starting to get it.

Presently I have zone 1 as front door, zone 2 as back door, zone 3 as motion and zone 4 as overhead door. Only zone 1 and 3 respond.

 

The resistors simply attach to either of the two leads coming back from the contact. It dosn't matter whether you land them on the zone input or the zone common. Make sure you are using the correct resistor. Ademco and DSC do not use the same value. DSC uses 5.6k ohm (green/blue/red) and Ademco uses 2k ohm (red/black/red).

Using a multimeter or other continuity tester, make sure that your contacts are actually closing. I've seen people monkey with programmming for hours before checking the actual contacts.

You should be able extrapolate the programming, at this point. You simply put the appropriate code for the desired zone type in the entry slot corresponding to the zone in question.

 

Got it now! Had 2 bad sensors. One at back entry door and one at Overhead garage door. The overhead garage door sensor is'nt typical though...hope they have it at home depot.

As for the DSC resistors vs. Ademco resistors: The resistors are actually red/blk/brown (which is the same I think inside on my vista 10se board). It's all working now though, but even if the resistors are wrong calibration-should they be changed regardless to correct calibration...even if it's working?

Tell me what you think about this (i was going to inquire your opinion anyway):

That hotsinc on the garage's 4110xm is pretty warm. I'd say between warm and hot. I don't care for how warm it is but if it's normal then OK. I went into the house to see how warm/hot the vista 10se's hot sinc was and it was not comparable at all. It was warm/cold.
Do you think the hotter sinc in the 4110xm is normal and the nature of the beast, or do you think it may very well be resistor related if the resistors are not (red/black/red)?

 

Those resistors are probably red/black/red, but the color stripe has slightly changed color with time (red/black/brown is 200 ohm) because the center of the resistor gets slightly warm with time. If you check them with an ohmmeter, they should be 2000ohm +/- 10% or so. If they don't test fairly close to 2k, then you should change them, because you will get false trips with changes in ambient temp and humidity.

The 4110 is an older design, so the power supply is less effecient, thus more waste heat; it's nothing to worry about.

 

You have the right resistors. The older vista models used 1k resistors (brown, black, red). I didn't remember, til just now; and didn't catch it because the color sequence is almost the mirror image of the 2k sequence (you are reading the stripes from the wrong end of the resistor; there is usually a metallic stripe after the last significant digit stripe).