H721C hook-up

Old 02-28-07, 11:01 AM
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H721C hook-up

Hi, I have a H721C camera and would like to know how I can set it up without using CAT-5 wire if this is even possible. I already have R59 with a power source going in to the the junction box so running CAT-5 would mean that I would have to create to many holes in the wall. Does anyone know if I'm able to connect this camera with out using CAT-5? It would be great.

Old 02-28-07, 03:46 PM
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These camera systems are somewhat propriatory. Without knowing the pinout for their rj-45 connector, your guess is as good as mine, there really isn't a standard for these.

Since you already are wired in for coax and power, your best bet is to simply get a camera that uses standard coax and power connections.
Old 05-23-07, 03:19 PM
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Lightbulb H721C Hookup...an actual answer

The H721C is very easy to convert to non-propriatary use, as follows: When you're looking at the back of the unit you'll see a (2) position connecting block, (8) position and another (2) position. For simplicity let's consider these positions 1 through 12.

1: (Negative) DC input to voltage regulator (use a 12v wall wart)
2: (Positive) DC input to VR
3: (n/c) sticker indicates green or Bl/
4: (n/c) sticker indicates red or Bl
5: (n/c) sticker indicates O/ (remove default resistor to 6)
6: (n/c) sticker indicates O (remove default resistor to 5)
7: 100 Ohm composite video signal (sticker Bk or G/)
8: 100 Ohm composite video ground (sticker Y or G)
9: (n/c) sticker indicates Br/
10: (n/c) sticker indicates Br
11: (n/c)
12: (n/c)

If you need 75 Ohm video it can be tapped from the connector block near the brass plate that comes directly from the camera module itself. The Yellow wire is video and the blue one next to it is video ground.

The 100 Ohm video output on 7/8 is perfect for sending over CAT5 back to a balun to be transformed to 75 Ohms for normal video inputs, or in the specific case mentioned in this question, you'll want to tap the video feed off the connector for your coaxial cable as mentioned in the previous paragraph.

It's notable that the voltage provided to the camera module is a nice stable 10VDC ala the voltage regulator, so the lower (non-camera) pcb is usefull even if you don't need its 100 Ohm balun functionality.

Hope this helps...I just got ten of these camera's from a guy on ebay that has several hundred for sale for $9.99 each...quite a bargain from their original triple-digit pricing...and it really is a superbly built heavy duty assembly. What I've posted here is what I've discovered after about 30 minutes of fustration and 10 minutes of enlightenment poking around with my DVM, some jumpers, a power supply and a monitor!

I'm compelled to mention the uselessness of the previous reply and somewhat alarmed by its non-DIY nature. I suggest that if someone does not have an answer to a problem, that's okay. But please don't suggest _purchasing_ an alternate solution for that reason alone.

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