New Home - Concord 4


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Old 06-12-08, 03:54 AM
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New Home - Concord 4

I am moving into a new home next week and it has a Concord 4 system preinstalled. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or comments for upgrading the basic downstairs only system. These are a few of the things I have thought of.

1) Add a control panel in master bedroom (programming one?)
2) Add more door/window/motion sensors to cover upstairs and garage door
3) Add Phone Interface and Voice Module (60-777-01) for understandable alerts, remotely access, and hopefully telephone notification of critical events
4) Add SuperBus 2000 Automation Module - 60-783-02 to hopefully integrate with automation software via RS-232 like homeseer
5) Add Power Line Carrier Transformer. (600-1024) for X-10 control of lights/appliances (hopefully this is accessible through homeseer to alleviate another x-10 interface)
6) Add SuperBus 2000 Energy Saver Module - 60-620-01 to allow me to reduce power consumption by my soon to be installed central air conditioner. Do I need one for upstairs thermostat, and one for downstairs?
7) Add SuperBus 2000 2 Amp Power Supply - 600-1019 if all of these modules need the additional power
8) Add an external strobe light facing street, may need additional battery backup besides power supply.
9) Add a water sensor for my upstairs laundry room - need to find one compatible.
10) Would like to integrate it with my smoke detectors if it isn't already.
11) Want to add an additional layer of defense to my garage door opener. The new van i purchased has homelink that always functions even if it is alarming. Hoping I could make a homelink interface that requires me to do a combination of homelink buttons to actually get the garage door to open.
12) I would love to tie the system into a camera system that would send my phone images of affected zones / motion activated captures.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts/suggestions!
 
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Old 06-12-08, 09:32 AM
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1.) Adding keypad to master bedroom--you will need to be able to get wire from the control panel to the keypad location upstairs.
2.)adding sensors for upstairs and gargage--Easily added with wireless sensors
3.)Phone/voice module--easily added to panel, you will need an active phone line to use the phone access.
4.)Automation module--connects to panel, never used one, but shouldn't be a problem.
5.)Add powerline transformer--should already have one, if your transformer is black it is X10 ready.
6.)Energy saver module--connects to panel easily, but must be wired to thermostat ( I would just use a nice programmable thermostat, but that is just me.)
7.)Add power supply--might be a good idea.
8.)Strobe light-great feature will need to be wired to panel.
9.)Water sensor--GE makes a wireless water sensor.
10.)Integration with existing smokes--Not permitted to be connected to 110V smokes, but the system can use it's own 12v hard wired smokes or wireless smokes.
11.)Homelink--no idea
12.)Cameras--If you subscribe to alarm.com service, they are now offering integration with wireless cameras.

Good luck.
 
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Old 06-12-08, 09:51 AM
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If this place is new construction, and was prewired for the stuff that is already in place, then the odds are pretty good that the remaining openings and at least one more keypad location are already prewired, as well.

Open the system cabinet and look at the mass of wires. If you see several that are not connected to anything, then you are probably in luck.

Typically on a standard residential prewire, there will be a keypad drop in the master suite, and at the front and garage/rear door.

Look at your windows that are wired, make note of the type of contact that is used, and see if you see the same devices on your remaining openings.
 
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Old 06-12-08, 12:27 PM
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kcxj and MrRonFL, Thank you for the assistance, i really appreciate it. Here are some additional thoughts and questions.

1) Thank you for the 'dark wiring' tip. I will investigate it. They decided to do most things wireless so the prewire may only include the speaker and the downstairs control panel next to the garage/front door. Any suggestions for which control panel i should get?

2) What's the best way to sensor the automatic garage door? Do I use a door/window sensor and mount it near the bottom of the door?

3) Does the phone/voice module call you up when you have an event and tell you what is going on? Should i consider just getting the voice module and then using homeseer or some other automation software to remotely access and control the system?

4) Should the automation module give access to x-10 and hvac controls as well, or is it just for basic security functions like event reporting and arming/disarming?

5) Is the X-10 adapter control functions accessible through homeseer with the automation module?

6) Is there a better HVAC control option that integrates with home automation software for about the same price as the Energy Saver Module? Is this Module controllable through the home automation module?

7) How do i calculate if i need an another power adapter? Does each component have a power requirement that i can easily add up?

8) What would be a good strobe light to use? What specifications does it need to meet to connect? Is there a compatible GE device?

9) Does anyone know the compatible GE model number for the water sensor?

10) Is there an interface that i can use to connect my 110V smoke detectors to my alarm panel?

11) To secure my garage, i'm thinking of losing the garage door openers and homelink and going with some sort of keyfob type solution which can be on our keychains.

12) I'm looking for a way to integrate cameras / motion sensors etc with the alarm without paying a monthly service charge like alarm.com or a local monitoring service.
 
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Old 06-12-08, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
kcxj and MrRonFL, Thank you for the assistance, i really appreciate it. Here are some additional thoughts and questions.

1) Thank you for the 'dark wiring' tip. I will investigate it. They decided to do most things wireless so the prewire may only include the speaker and the downstairs control panel next to the garage/front door. Any suggestions for which control panel i should get?
If you intend to program the system, you will need an alpha-numeric 2-line TP like the ATP 1000 Part #: 60-983

2) What's the best way to sensor the automatic garage door? Do I use a door/window sensor and mount it near the bottom of the door?
Keep in mind that if you enter primarily through the garage,
the moment you open the garage door, the alarm will go off
when armed (with no delay)

9) Does anyone know the compatible GE model number for the water sensor?
I have the GE-60-744-95R and I have it installed in my laundry room and
all toilets (the bolts holding the tank to the bowl can corrode and fall out leading to a leak)

I would also advise getting remote keyfobs for arming/disarming. I didn't realize how convenient they were until I got mine and started using them. No more mad dash to turn the alarm off, or, cussing if I forget to arm it and am already sitting in my car.

Secondly, I'm not sure if you want your upstairs to also be armed with window/motion sensors. A burglar would probably use a ground-level window/door to gain access rather than carry a ladder and risk getting caught climbing up/down. As long as your ground-level access is protected, you should be
fine. Just my opinion
 
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Old 06-12-08, 02:03 PM
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thanks teerex. very important to know i need a better TP like the ATP 1000. I'd be pulling my hair trying to get the new sensors in when i move in without being able to program them.

Isn't there a way to set a delay on the garage sensor like the front door delay? Hopefully a secondary timer for a longer duration from the front?

I like the idea of water sensors in the bathrooms, I will definitely consider it later down the line.

Remote Keyfobs definitely seem convenient. Are there rolling codes on those or would it sniffable?

I heard that many burgs have been getting in through the master bathroom window. For peace of mind, i will probably need to do the upstairs as well.
 
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Old 06-12-08, 03:22 PM
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In general, garage doors with electric openers are _very_ difficult to force from the outside. If it's a real concern for you, there are several models of door contact that you can wire to the hardwire input of a standard wireless transmitter. The keyword to use is "overhead door contact"

The installation manual for the Concord 4 does have a list of all of the optional boards with their current draw, there's actually a worksheet in the manual for calculating current draw.

A lot of your questions can be answered by going to the "horses mouth":

http://www.gesecurity.com/portal/sit...&seriesyn=true

The link above will take you to GE's webpage for the Concord 4 and all of it's myriad parts, that way you can look at the spec sheets and user instructions for everything.

There really isn't a recommended way to interlink hardwired 110v smokes to an alarm system. A couple of the smoke detector brands make a relay unit that can be triggered by the interlink wireing for the smokes, but it's generally not considered to be reliable or that much of a good idea.
 
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Old 06-12-08, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MrRonFL
In general, garage doors with electric openers are _very_ difficult to force from the outside. If it's a real concern for you, there are several models of door contact that you can wire to the hardwire input of a standard wireless transmitter. The keyword to use is "overhead door contact"
My main concern is about people breaking into the garage, and then manually opening the garage quietly and escaping with their loot, not so much breaking in through the "overhead door," thank you =)

Originally Posted by MrRonFL
The installation manual for the Concord 4 does have a list of all of the optional boards with their current draw, there's actually a worksheet in the manual for calculating current draw.

A lot of your questions can be answered by going to the "horses mouth":

http://www.gesecurity.com/portal/sit...&seriesyn=true

The link above will take you to GE's webpage for the Concord 4 and all of it's myriad parts, that way you can look at the spec sheets and user instructions for everything.
Wonderful, i've been on the website a lot and was looking for the user manuals for all of the components and have been disappointed. Didn't realize the user manuals were integrated with the alarm panel documentation. I have quite a bit of reading to do now.


Originally Posted by MrRonFL
There really isn't a recommended way to interlink hardwired 110v smokes to an alarm system. A couple of the smoke detector brands make a relay unit that can be triggered by the interlink wireing for the smokes, but it's generally not considered to be reliable or that much of a good idea.
Thanks!
 
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Old 06-12-08, 07:05 PM
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FYI...There is a brand new wireless overhead garage door sensor now available. It trips when it is turned at a 45 degree angle (when the door goes up and down). PM me for more info.

You can program your keyfob * button to open and close your garage door (have to get a wire from the panel to the garage door opener...OR you can use an X-10 relay module and trip that with a wireless panic button. It will even clip to your cars visor..
 
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Old 06-12-08, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
thanks teerex. very important to know i need a better TP like the ATP 1000. I'd be pulling my hair trying to get the new sensors in when i move in without being able to program them.

Isn't there a way to set a delay on the garage sensor like the front door delay? Hopefully a secondary timer for a longer duration from the front?

I like the idea of water sensors in the bathrooms, I will definitely consider it later down the line.

Remote Keyfobs definitely seem convenient. Are there rolling codes on those or would it sniffable?

I heard that many burgs have been getting in through the master bathroom window. For peace of mind, i will probably need to do the upstairs as well.
There is a 2 button encrypted keyfob available...

You can program Account Numbers, Sensors, and Phone Numbers with a Fixed English keypad
 
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Old 06-12-08, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GEGUY
You can program your keyfob * button to open and close your garage door (have to get a wire from the panel to the garage door opener...OR you can use an X-10 relay module and trip that with a wireless panic button. It will even clip to your cars visor..

There is a 2 button encrypted keyfob available...

You can program Account Numbers, Sensors, and Phone Numbers with a Fixed English keypad
Thanks GEGuy. Appreciate your response.

I'd love to use an encrypted keyfob button to open and close the garage door. Looks like there is a 4-button encrypted one too: 60-659-95R Four-button SAW keychain touchpad.

Would i just wire one physical output to the push button to simulate pushing the button and program one of the keyfob buttons to trigger that output?

I'm going to find out if the installed keypad is a Fixed English keypad (or the ATP 1000), maybe i won't need to buy an additional keypad yet, and can concentrate on the sensors and keyfobs.

Where is an inexpensive "safe" place that you guys have purchased sensors and such? I'm in Hawaii so shipping may be a wildcard for my orders.

Thanks!
 
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Old 06-12-08, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
thanks teerex. very important to know i need a better TP like the ATP 1000. I'd be pulling my hair trying to get the new sensors in when i move in without being able to program them.

Isn't there a way to set a delay on the garage sensor like the front door delay? Hopefully a secondary timer for a longer duration from the front?

I like the idea of water sensors in the bathrooms, I will definitely consider it later down the line.

Remote Keyfobs definitely seem convenient. Are there rolling codes on those or would it sniffable?

I heard that many burgs have been getting in through the master bathroom window. For peace of mind, i will probably need to do the upstairs as well.
Originally Posted by Janos112
Thanks GEGuy. Appreciate your response.

I'd love to use an encrypted keyfob button to open and close the garage door. Looks like there is a 4-button encrypted one too: 60-659-95R Four-button SAW keychain touchpad.

Would i just wire one physical output to the push button to simulate pushing the button and program one of the keyfob buttons to trigger that output?


I'm going to find out if the installed keypad is a Fixed English keypad (or the ATP 1000), maybe i won't need to buy an additional keypad yet, and can concentrate on the sensors and keyfobs.

Where is an inexpensive "safe" place that you guys have purchased sensors and such? I'm in Hawaii so shipping may be a wildcard for my orders.

Thanks!
Yes...or you can wire right to the opener itself. You have to do a little programming of an output to make the * button activate the garage door. You'll need a LCD keypad to do this.
 
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Old 06-12-08, 11:54 PM
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One more thing i really wanted to sensor is the status of the deadbolt. The standard door sensor can tell me that the door is closed, but not locked. Does anyone have a reasonable way to sensor the deadbolt? Also, what about locking sliding glass doors? TIA.
 
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Old 06-13-08, 04:42 AM
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The only way I've ever seen for checking the status of a deadbolt used a plunger switch set in the deadbolt socket in the doorframe. It's something I've seen done at a high end jeweler's shop, but never in a residence.
 
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Old 06-13-08, 05:48 AM
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I like the idea of sensing the deadbolts, though as stated, it is a pretty extreme measure.

How would people break into your garage if they don't go through the doors? Do you have unprotected windows or other standard doors on the garage? If you're really concerned, you might consider a microwave motion detector, which will work in extreme temperatures likely encountered in a garage. I think standard PIR's would probably not be all that effective 100% of the time in a garage. Of course, IR beams across strategic areas might also be effective.

I figure most of the folks that would gain access to the garage would continue on to try to get into the house, since the only thing in the garage is a limited selection of tools and garden supplies and the cars.
 
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Old 06-13-08, 10:57 AM
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3) It looks as if the system cannot call me and verbally inform me of status with the phone/voice module, but it can page me. My cell phone has pager emulation but it requires a prefix of 22 and a suffix of #1. How would i program that into the message string?

The plunger switch which i would love to have on the front door looks to be hardwired only which would be terribly difficult. Does anyone know of any compatible wireless plunger switches? I'd prefer to make sure my door is locked properly to be proactive, instead of just reactive with the alarm when it is opened.

My garage is fairly large and will be used to store a lot of junk. A lot of times, the burglars here will break into the garage window and go for tools. They will open the garage door manually and get away without setting off any alarms.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 06-13-08, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
3) It looks as if the system cannot call me and verbally inform me of status with the phone/voice module, but it can page me. My cell phone has pager emulation but it requires a prefix of 22 and a suffix of #1. How would i program that into the message string?

The plunger switch which i would love to have on the front door looks to be hardwired only which would be terribly difficult. Does anyone know of any compatible wireless plunger switches? I'd prefer to make sure my door is locked properly to be proactive, instead of just reactive with the alarm when it is opened.

My garage is fairly large and will be used to store a lot of junk. A lot of times, the burglars here will break into the garage window and go for tools. They will open the garage door manually and get away without setting off any alarms.

Thanks again!

What some have done is when the system calls your cell phone and you see that it's your house calling you, you can call into it and check the status...Or monkey with the paging...you stated above that you need a "#" in the pager string...So, under the pager phone numbers in programming, enter 22+your cell phone number and then to get the # in there you press and hold the 9 button, then enter your final digit of 1. Keep in mind, you may have to program a few pauses at the start of this number (the programming feature is called "Pager Delay) if your cell phone starts with a message when it answers.

You can simply wire your hardwire plunger switch to a wireless door sensor.
 
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Old 06-13-08, 12:11 PM
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Getting the switch under the plunger will be a bit tricky, but you can remove the plate and also possibly the trim on the door on that side to get it in there. It's going to be some work any way you look at it.
 
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Old 06-13-08, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GEGUY
What some have done is when the system calls your cell phone and you see that it's your house calling you, you can call into it and check the status...Or monkey with the paging...you stated above that you need a "#" in the pager string...So, under the pager phone numbers in programming, enter 22+your cell phone number and then to get the # in there you press and hold the 9 button, then enter your final digit of 1. Keep in mind, you may have to program a few pauses at the start of this number (the programming feature is called "Pager Delay) if your cell phone starts with a message when it answers.
Yes, calling it back would be a lot easier listening to the status. I'm just concerned by that time, the line may be cut and it may be difficult to dial in for a status. Adding the pauses for the ring to the cell number is a good idea. Is the paging message held until the line is answered, or does it wait a specific amount of time? If it rings a variable amount, will the message get through? If I do answer the line, do you think there is a way i can escape into the voice response without having to call it back. I'm guessing my ears and brain aren't trained sufficiently to distinguish the DTMF tones properly. Putting the paging suffix as part of the phone number probably won't work since the message needs to get inserted. Is there a way to inject a special code in the pager number string to indicate that the custom message goes in there, or another location where we could put a suffix? Some pagers want a # at the end so i have hope this could work.

Originally Posted by GEGUY
You can simply wire your hardwire plunger switch to a wireless door sensor.
Great, would you agree that the "GE Recessed Roller Plunger With Wire Leads 3005" may be the best choice of sensors?

FYI: Motion Sensing in Hot Garage:
Garage: 6187CTX, RCR series

FYI: For the garage door sensor, putting it on zone type 11 or 12 would give me sufficient time to exit before alarming. Sounds as if 4 minutes is the minimum/default for zone type 11, but may be sufficient assuming nobody opens it as soon as i leave.
 
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Old 06-14-08, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
I'd love to use an encrypted keyfob button to open and close the garage door. Looks like there is a 4-button encrypted one too: 60-659-95R Four-button SAW keychain touchpad.
I have the 2-button ELM keyfobs that GEGuy mentioned. I'm not sure if the 4-button keyfobs are encrypted. WHen I was in the market (4~6 months ago), I didn't find any encrypted 4-button fobs. There is also a non-GE branded 4-button fob that is much cheaper (~$23, IIRC) than the GE-branded fobs (~$35)

Where is an inexpensive "safe" place that you guys have purchased sensors and such? I'm in Hawaii so shipping may be a wildcard for my orders.
Thanks!
I bought all my stuff from safemart.com. Some of their prices were higher than those of home-technology-store, but, safemart gladly matched the prices after verifying them. Their returns are also painless (assuming you're returning in new condition). I had ordered the wrong-type of door/window sensors and I was able to return them and get my money credited immediately. Also, all my stuff was shipped promptly by FedEx (I think if you order >$100, they ship it free by FedEx - not sure about HI, though)

HTH
 
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Old 06-14-08, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by teerex
I have the 2-button ELM keyfobs that GEGuy mentioned. I'm not sure if the 4-button keyfobs are encrypted. WHen I was in the market (4~6 months ago), I didn't find any encrypted 4-button fobs. There is also a non-GE branded 4-button fob that is much cheaper (~$23, IIRC) than the GE-branded fobs (~$35)
Can anyone confirm that this one is encrypted? It seems to be on a rolling code.

60-659-95R
Four-button SAW keychain touchpad

ELM Keychain Touchpads provide convenient, portable system control with ultimate security. ELM technology secures every wireless transmission by sending a unique message sequence between the control panel and touchpad.

Originally Posted by teerex
I bought all my stuff from safemart.com. Some of their prices were higher than those of home-technology-store, but, safemart gladly matched the prices after verifying them. Their returns are also painless (assuming you're returning in new condition). I had ordered the wrong-type of door/window sensors and I was able to return them and get my money credited immediately. Also, all my stuff was shipped promptly by FedEx (I think if you order >$100, they ship it free by FedEx - not sure about HI, though)

HTH
Thanks, very good information. They seemed like one of the vendors i would likely choose since i always ended up on their site when pricing things. I decided to look locally so i am getting setup as a reseller. Hopefully the pricing will at least be competitive to online pricing with shipping.
 
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Old 06-15-08, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
FYI: Motion Sensing in Hot Garage:
Garage: 6187CTX, RCR series
From the description on the GE site.
The 6187 SharpShooter® PIR works well in harsh environments,
including extremely cold temperatures, weather, dust, and shock. The sensor can be used as either a hard-wired or wireless device.
Note that they mention cold, but if the garage is in the mid 90's F, there is no differential between the person and the ambient, thus no IR sensing of the difference. Just something to consider, don't know how hot your garage gets, I don't air condition mine.
 
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Old 06-15-08, 03:41 PM
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Trust me, motion sensors detect just as well in 90+ ambient temps as they do in more temperant environments. We use various flavors of PIR motions here in FL in places like warehouses. Until you get well into 110-120F+ or well below 40F, the response curve doesn't really change. If anything they become overly sensitive at the extremes. I see more false trips from rodents and insects (a silverfish looks _huge_ if it actually gets into the device housing...) than anything else.

In the real world, the type of crook that knows enough to circumvent even the most rudimentary alarm system is very rare; and will seldom target most typical residences.

If there are any signs of an alarm system, they will generally go to a "softer" target.
 
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Old 06-15-08, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn
From the description on the GE site.Note that they mention cold, but if the garage is in the mid 90's F, there is no differential between the person and the ambient, thus no IR sensing of the difference. Just something to consider, don't know how hot your garage gets, I don't air condition mine.
Good point. I missed that harsh didn't include very hot. However, i am planning on air conditioning the garage but i doubt it will become near freezing. =) I'll have to do some further research for the garage motion sensor. Thanks!
 
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Old 06-15-08, 11:54 PM
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I'm probably going to put the standard one in there and see how it goes. It is much less likely that they would break into the garage during the day when it is very hot (probably about 120) so the standard would probably work. Thanks!
 
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Old 06-16-08, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MrRonFL
Trust me, motion sensors detect just as well in 90+ ambient temps as they do in more temperant environments. We use various flavors of PIR motions here in FL in places like warehouses. Until you get well into 110-120F+ or well below 40F, the response curve doesn't really change.
I'll bow to actual experience. I was told by two different alarm companies that the IR detectors would not be effective in the garage in the summer, but I have no personal experience trying them. That may be an interesting experiment once of these days.
 
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Old 06-17-08, 10:11 PM
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Name that GE system

I understand that I have a concord 4. I was wondering if anyone could give me more information about it from it's baby pictures?

It has an internal(mounted above the stairs) speaker for alarm and voice. When pressing 00, it uses audible words to say "Lights On" so i assume it has the voice module, and hope that it has the phone/voice module. It has a white transformer so I am guessing it is not x-10 compatible. There is also apparently a battery backup. I believe all of the doors and windows are wireless sensors. There is one control panel between the garage and front door. What is that daughterboard and all of those wires for? Any thoughts on the phone wire coiled that goes to a phone jack?Thanks in advance.


 
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Old 06-18-08, 05:56 AM
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Looks like a voice module, and it appears you may have a couple spare wires...extra keypad drops perhaps.
 
  #29  
Old 06-18-08, 06:52 AM
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FWIW, my X-10 compatible transformer is indeed white. It's the model number of the transformer that's significant, not the color.

A simple test is to configure the lighting parameters and try to turn some lights on/off.

Here's the transformer I'm using that is X-10 compatible: http://www.homesecuritystore.com/ezS...productID=1803
 
  #30  
Old 06-18-08, 04:40 PM
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Voice/Paging Module Problem

I'd really like to get the paging module working for me but it sounds like it may not be possible. My pager emulation requires a prefix of "22" for the page to go through. Unfortunately, there is only space for 26 characters and each pause is only half a second. There may be six rings before it answers so using the default pauses (per GE) before the 22 will not work because the field isn't long enough. According to GE, you need to program pauses for the rings since it isn't smart enough to detect the rings stopping/answering.

Also, there is a setting for a delay, however that delay occurs after the pager number is dialed (which would likely include the "22"). Problem with this is that there is no way to prefix the alarm with the "22" although the delay would help get the message to transmit at the right time.

Also, the paging message itself could start with 22, however there is no way to customize the paging message, like putting account code first, or prefixing a number. Only one message may get through, the event code of 22 which is an arming message, not an alarm message.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If anyone is willing to help me test it since i do not currently have the module, please pm me.

Thanks!
 
  #31  
Old 06-18-08, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kcxj
Looks like a voice module, and it appears you may have a couple spare wires...extra keypad drops perhaps.
Yep, Voice Only Module....No phone module there.
 
  #32  
Old 06-18-08, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
I'd really like to get the paging module working for me but it sounds like it may not be possible. My pager emulation requires a prefix of "22" for the page to go through. Unfortunately, there is only space for 26 characters and each pause is only half a second. There may be six rings before it answers so using the default pauses (per GE) before the 22 will not work because the field isn't long enough. According to GE, you need to program pauses for the rings since it isn't smart enough to detect the rings stopping/answering.

Also, there is a setting for a delay, however that delay occurs after the pager number is dialed (which would likely include the "22"). Problem with this is that there is no way to prefix the alarm with the "22" although the delay would help get the message to transmit at the right time.

Also, the paging message itself could start with 22, however there is no way to customize the paging message, like putting account code first, or prefixing a number. Only one message may get through, the event code of 22 which is an arming message, not an alarm message.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If anyone is willing to help me test it since i do not currently have the module, please pm me.

Thanks!

The panel will send you a 6 digit page by default. For example, a pager display of 999 002 indicates the following:
999 = alarm condition
002 = sensor/zone in alarm or user number

If you want it to include that last 4 digits of the account number, turn "Streamlining" off in pager number programming...
 
  #33  
Old 06-18-08, 10:36 PM
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Problem with the paging is the required prefix. If i go and buy a pager, i would be fine, but since i'm trying to use pager emulation on my cell, my voicemail requires a prefix of "22" which doesn't seem to be possible in conjunction with the number of pauses necessary to accomodate the number of rings. Any suggestions on how I could get around these limitations would be great.
 
  #34  
Old 06-19-08, 01:48 AM
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I have one of the following keypads, probably the first one. Will it work well for programming or is there a better one i should get?





^^
this one
 

Last edited by Janos112; 06-19-08 at 01:49 AM. Reason: clarified image
  #35  
Old 06-19-08, 07:12 AM
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The actual model number of the keypad would be nice. It appears to be an alpha-numeric keypad, which should work, but it's hard to say. Have you tried entering the system configuration with that panel?
 
  #36  
Old 06-19-08, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Janos112
I have one of the following keypads, probably the first one. Will it work well for programming or is there a better one i should get?





^^
this one
It'll work fine...However, if you want to upgrade to a newer model with a door covering the keys and a larger display, you can go with the ATP-1000. There is also an interesting option (the 2100 or 2600) that has 4 programmable macro buttons on each of them. I use them to do one touch custom arming and one touch opening of my 2 garage doors....
 
  #37  
Old 06-19-08, 11:06 AM
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Sounds good. I will likely buy that one since I need a second keypad. Thanks.

I haven't tried programming it yet. I'm not sure what the installer code is.

I'm getting the house and the codes tomorrow, what do you recommend I ask for about the alarm? There are some programming sheets I will be getting showing the zones and other paperwork. I can think of:

Documentation
Disarm Code
Installer Code
Master Code?
Anything else?

Thanks!
 
  #38  
Old 06-19-08, 11:23 AM
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Since my system unfortunately does not have the phone/voice module, I was wondering if anyone has successfully utilized the standard notification.

Basically, has anyone become their own or others monitoring service by using a computer and modem?

If so, how did you go about it, what tools did you use? Are there any free solutions?
 
  #39  
Old 06-19-08, 03:25 PM
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AlarmRelay costs $8.95/mo, and is a UL Listed Central Monitoring Station. Do you really want to try to handle all this yourself? How about fire alarms, wouldn't you want the fire department dispatched within a couple of minutes of the alarm being sensed?
 
 

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