DSC PowerSeries 832 PC5010 Post-reset EOL Question

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  #1  
Old 11-07-08, 02:05 PM
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DSC PowerSeries 832 PC5010 Post-reset EOL Question

I successfully reset the system (several times now).

As indicated in the FAQ, all 8 zones show open/lit at panel post-default. Setting any zone in 001 as 00 will turn corresponding zone light off suggesting this is any EOL issue.

Successfully set date/time, changed codes and can arm alarm with all zones set to 00 in 001. Unfortunately, this does not make alarm system usable (want 03 03 03 01 01 01 01 01...I think).

Manual says EOL settings for PC 5010 are in section 013 and refers to three sets of setting existing over two options (1 & 2 respectively). Know that I probably want closed loops with option one enabled? "*8 5010 013 1...?

Tried several combination and I am lost as to what I am doing, what to do.

Any help from any individual(s) smarter and/or more experienced is GREATLY appreciated.

Thx,

Jon Gottfried
 
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  #2  
Old 11-07-08, 05:53 PM
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Yes, turn on option 1 in location 13. If your system didn't use resistors before the correct configuration is NC loops (normally closed).
 
  #3  
Old 11-11-08, 09:52 AM
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Thanks Ron.

How do I address the section options?

The keystrokes would be very helpful.

Thanks again,

JG
 
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Old 11-11-08, 05:03 PM
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Go to program
go to section 13
press 1
press ##
 
  #5  
Old 11-11-08, 08:30 PM
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So like "*8 5010 013 1 ##"?

I tried this and zone 1 stays lit. Can't arm.

I hit *2 and z1, z5 and z6 are lit.

Thanks,

JG
 
  #6  
Old 11-12-08, 04:39 AM
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(sigh)

If zone 1 is showing open in normal run mode, then you either have a door/window open, a missing magnet, or a bad contact. That's a field wiring problem, not a programming problem (normally).

The trouble codes:

1 is most likely low battery, press 1 again for the extended info.
5 is a zone trouble; press 5 again to see which zone
6 is a zone tamper (which normally only happens if a zone is set for the double EOL configuration)

All of this is in the section of your manual titled "Keypad commands"
 
  #7  
Old 11-13-08, 10:15 AM
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OK.

I have read the manual in its entirety again, but now with my newly armed (haha) knowledge. As you know, it is quite a page flipper at best.

I reconnected the battery (duh). Thanks!

You were also correct re: Z1. Upon examination, the contact switch had become dislodged from the door frame and the door snapped the end off it. So I disabled Z1 for now and voila I can arm! Thank you for your assistance with this major victory!

I successfully regained the other panel and programmed some of the keys by following instruction in the manual. I also attempted PClink enabling although I have not tried but this seems like it could provide a better window into the system.

So that leaves the code 5 zone trouble issue...

When I hit 5, z2 -z8 are lit. I assume that z1 will also be lit when I replace the sensor and reenable.

Z1 - Z3 are contacts and I think 4 - 8 are the glass breaks. I am not sure if/how the smoke detectors may be wired. My guess is this somehow also relates to the configuration. Unsure of affects beyond trouble light.

Any suggestions here are greatly appreciated.

Finally regarding the finer points of that weekly call the cell phone question:

I enabled the 1st and only communicator reporting code making sense in that tome that Tyco calls a manual...
*8 5010 328##

then attempted to put in a phone # to 301 (my cell)

first tried *8 5010 301 6504001577##

then realizing AC not required...just...4001577##

What am I missing here?

Thanks again for all the help.

JG
 
  #8  
Old 11-13-08, 04:39 PM
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Do you have the programming form booklet? Without it, the installer manual is even more cryptic than normal for DSC.

I suspect that when you were poking around with the settings for the EOL, you may have turned on one or more setting like the double EOL configuration (which creates zone tampers unless a specific resistor total is read).

For your system, programming location 13 should be as follows:

Option #--Status
1 ON
2 OFF
3 ON
4 OFF
5 OFF
6 ON
7 ON
8 OFF

The cell phone question is near daily.

DSC is a pain in the neck to setup for any type of communicator setup.

For what you are trying to do, you have to change the format to pager (360 05 02)
Every action that you want to activate the dialer must have a report code programmed. Since you are doing the cell phone thing, any code will work, it's just to enable the dialer.

Also make sure that option 1 in location 380 is on.

In truth, PC-link is really no easier until you understand DSC programming syntax, nomenclature, and general alarm configuration principals. That said, give it a shot (by way of perspective, I don't use the PC-Link software, it's a bigger headache than simply programming the panel from the keypad).
 
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Old 11-14-08, 10:42 AM
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Ron,

Thanks again 4 all your help.

No as a matter of fact I don't have the programming forms guide. Where might I (easily) obtain this as I didn't see anything like this from 1st glance at the web site.

So I'd skip the pclink and hold the cell phone 4 now.

On the potential double EOL issue, you are corrected, I did play around with various combos in section 13.

So to fix that is it just *8 5010 013 1 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 ##?

Again much thanks.

JG
 
  #10  
Old 11-14-08, 08:06 PM
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No, I think you are still misunderstanding the programming interface for options.

They are simply on or off. If you have an LED keypad, the zone lights will be on or off to indicate whether an option type programming location is set. All you have to do is look at the zone lights to know the settings.

Read the section of the manual titled "How to Program". It's confusing because there are essentially 3 different interface versions that vary depending on the location you are programming.

Websearch using the phrase "DSC PC 5010 programming manual"

You should get a free download on one of the first 4 or 5 hits.
 
  #11  
Old 11-17-08, 03:00 PM
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OK.

I understand the difference between section and option programming and have successfully configured section 013 options correctly as indicated by the lights.

I still get error 5, 2-8 though. Interestingly enough, I replaced the z1 sensor, but I do not see a fault for this zone as well.

Also I tried testing some of the glass breaks by taping adjacent light bulbs w/ a metal tool until the leds were lit but was unable to trigger the alarm 4 whatever reason.

Finally, I haven't been able to get the dial out to work although I think I successfully coded as you indicated. Perhaps this is due to issue w/ programming the reporting code as you suggest. Any help is greatly appreciated here too as well.

Thanks,

JG
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-08, 03:52 PM
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Honestly, now that you have a grasp on the programming interface, my best suggestion would be for you to default the thing one last time, and set your zones up again.

I suspect that you have some setting configured in a strange way, and without stepping through the programming section by section, there is no way to figure what's off.

For your dialer issue, just program any random number you want in the appropriate slots. If you look at the programming forms, you will see that every zone has an individual report code slot.
 
  #13  
Old 11-18-08, 11:01 AM
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I was afraid you were going to say that.

Ok, it is done.

I programmed date/time, zones, master code, access code, turned on option 1 in Section 13, turned comm to pager & programmed a number. Success! No trouble light. Much thanks again 4 all your help!!!

I'm still not clear on the communicator code. I picked one (320) and entered a single digit (per manual?) of 1. I have a feeling that this is not correct. What suggestions might you have here?

Note, I have the LED keypads (2). Do you think upgrade to an LCD is worth while?

Thanks,

JG
 
  #14  
Old 11-18-08, 08:22 PM
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There are 8 sections in location 320, one for each zone in the base system.

Again, since the actual code doesn't matter since you are doing the cell phone gig, all you enter is:

320
01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01

Then exit programming.

If you have the communicator turned on, this will make the system pick up the phone and dial if one of those zones goes into alarm.
 
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Old 11-20-08, 09:44 AM
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OK. I put the codes into 320 as instructed. Thank you.

I found Communicator Disable, 380, Section 1 (defaulted On). So I turned this Off (tried both ways). Still nothing.

So I am considering two things: perhaps an issue w/ the phone line? Thinking not likely, because, since TLM is not disabled, this would otherwise show trouble...I think.

I am thinking this has to do with communicator call direction options, 361 - 368 initially perhaps?

From p. 26 of the manual:

"If an event occurs and the communicator call direction options direct call to a phone number with the pager format selected the panel will attempt to page"

I am guessing 36(1) -36(8) again refers to each of the eight zones. Entering 361, only 1 is lit and pressing one turns it off.
So I'm further guessing 1 is for 301 and two is for 302. So it by that logic it should work. Argh. Any suggestions?

BTW, I never did find the programming work sheet, so I made my own...maybe u can use an edited version for FAQs (in the spirit of giving back what has been given to me ) ???

Thx,

JG

Basics

Change Installer Code: *8 (default ICODE) 007 (new icode) ##

where default ICODE = 5010, 5555, etc.

Change Master Code: *5 1234 40 (new m code) ##

User Code: *5 (m code) 02 (new u code) ##

Set Time: *6 (icode) 1 HH:MM MMD:YY ##

Zone Defs: *8 (icode) 001 XX XX XX XX XX XX XX XX ##

where XX = zone definition code (e.g.
01 01 01 03 03 03 03 03) for z1-3 delay 1 & z4-z8 instant.

EOL Resistors Off: *8 (icode) 013 1 ##

Misc

Local Downloading: *8 (icode) 499 (icode) 499 ##

Bell Continuous: *8 (icode) 014 8 ##

Cell Phone Enable Attempts (to date)

Pager Format: *8 (icode) 360 05 02 ##

Rpt Codes (Z1-8): *8 (icode) 320 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 ##

Comm Disable Off: *8 (icode) 1 ##

Phone #s: *8 (icode) 301 (phone #1) ##
302 (phone #2) ##

Missing?
 
  #16  
Old 11-20-08, 04:45 PM
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Try this for the programming forms: http://nextalarm.net/Files/5010pw.pdf
(Often websearches will only show the installer manual on the search result, but if you actually go to the site, they have user, installer, and programming manuals)

Location 007 is the _master_ code, not the installer code. They aren't interchangeable.

Have you tried listening in on the panel while it should be dialing? It may be a phone wiring issue.
 
  #17  
Old 11-20-08, 05:48 PM
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Thanks for the ref.

Listening in will be my next move tomorrow when its light outside.

What I did do is disconnect the line from the panel and verified that TLM was active (causing error 3), which cleared on reconnection.

Some other things along the way, my smokes do not appear connected as there is nothing on Aux or PGM.

In addition to the three contact switches (z1 - z3, tested), I count 7 glass breaks. This suggests that they can be/are connected in series perhaps?

Anyway, that's all for now and thanks.

JG
 
  #18  
Old 11-20-08, 06:34 PM
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If you mean the adhesive "window bug" style glass breaks, then yes, they are just a piezo-electric switch. As long as less than about 6-8 are on the same circuit, you are fine.

Your smokes are most likely standard, hardware store, single station interconnected smoke alarms. No system connection.

Again, it's hard to tell from second hand info just what bit of programming or wiring may be misconfigured.
 
  #19  
Old 11-22-08, 10:54 PM
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Actually the glass breaks are in the ceilings near major window groups and they are about the size of a silver dollar with two holes.

One hole has an led which I noticed lit when I set a light bulb down against a metal ladder once suggesting it is responding to frequency.

I am guessing the other hole is to let the sound in to vibrate somthing which turns that into an electrical signal (or somthing like that).

Anyway, when tapping nearby bulbs with a knife in attempts to test I noticed I was able to light the led but no alarm. I have not tried this since the most recent reset of the system.
 
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Old 11-23-08, 12:05 PM
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Those are acoustic glass breaks. The wire like a motion detector (two wires for power, 2 wires for alarm loop)

_Most_ installs simply wired them as a single zone, sometimes, they each get wired into the zone with the windows for the room that they are each individually in. There's no standard.
 
  #21  
Old 11-24-08, 06:03 PM
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Any suggestions for testing the acoustical glass breaks?

When the LED comes on, does this indicate a change in the contact status? (I am wondering if my current test was valid).

Finally, on the comm issue...the phone line is OK, but the system did not seem to be dialing in the alarm condition.

In reviewing the programming worksheets, I noticed that 380 section 1 must be on (and that this is the default). Thinking I should check, I went in and surprisingly it was off. So I turned it on.

Another test was inconclusive, but I did not yet check to see if the dial out was working (as its was too late). Tomorrow I will try this and if so change to a land line as a next step (I don't get the best cellular reception at my house).

If this doesn't work, I think I should perhaps consider one of the communicators on EBAY. Opinion and/or any suggestions there?

I also would like to have a switched output to my Vantage Controls Smart home so that an alarm condition can flash lights. I wired the input back to the PC5010 and am wondering can I just hook this up to PGM and program accordingly (?) or do I need a RM-1 as it shows in the manual.

Thanks,

JG
 
  #22  
Old 11-24-08, 07:49 PM
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You need some type of relay. The PGM is just a means of switching a ground connection on and off. You connect the negative leg of the coil of a 12vdc relay to the PGM and the positive to Aux +.

It doesn't have to be a RM-1. Any 12vdc relay will work.

Different glass breaks have different test configurations. Some have a "clap test" that can be turned on, some need some form of external tester. I have a fair amount of success with just using a heavy ring of keys, but I've practiced, a lot.

Yes, the led _usually_ means a trip. More specific requires brand and model info (none of this stuff is universal).

I think you will get the dialer to work. You just have to get a grasp on the programming and configuration. Really not worth the expense and complication of _another_ piece of hardware to install and program.
 
  #23  
Old 06-01-09, 04:43 PM
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Respect, thanks and admiration for MrRonFL

Greetings, MrRonFL,

Reading your outstanding, professional and expert messages enabled me to solve my DSC Power832 panel/system difficulties very quickly - and after having spent a consideral amount of time without success.

I am very grateful to you for the time and dedication that you have devoted to helping others, now including me, in this forum, and no doubt, elsewhere as well.

I have long recognized and respected, especially with regard to technical matters, that significant and meaningful experience, coupled with exceptional analytic and problem-solving skills, is what makes "the master". You are the master.

You have earned my respect, my admiration, and my thanks.

Sincerely, with Best Wishes,
Melvyn

BEDFORD TX
 
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