GE Concord Partitions

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Old 04-29-09, 07:56 AM
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GE Concord Partitions

So thanks to the help of this board, I've recently installed a GE Concord 4 system in my house, and it works great! Now, I'd like to expand it to my other sheds.

I know the panel has 4 partitions, and I have 3 additional sheds that I'd like to connect.

Shed 1: 2 large doors and 3 service doors.

Shed 2: 1 large door, 1 service door, 4 windows.

Shed 3: 2 large doors, 2 service doors.

I'd like to cover these entrances, install a keypad on each building, and put a siren and strobe in each. My question is, what kind of wiring would I need? How many wires to each building? I haven't seen a whole lot of advice on this type of installation, so any help would be great. Also, each shed is abou 200-300 feet from my house. I don't want to use wireless as it would be difficult with my metal sided sheds.

Thanks in advance for all the help in the past and your future responses!
 
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Old 04-29-09, 08:43 AM
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6 partitions, actually...

Keypads take 4 wires (as do all bus devices).

The answer(s) lie in where the sheds are in relation to your house. If the house is centrally located and the sheds are all pretty equal distance from the house, then run one set of 4 conductor wire (like 18 gauge) to each shed. Tap off of that wire to hook up your keypad. As far as the hardwire zones, you can either homerun from the panel (8 zones) and then add either a snapcard (6 zones) and/or a Hardwire Input module (8 zones per). You can also (I'd do this, less wire running) tap off of the same 4 conductor wire you ran to the sheds for the keypad, and hook up a Hardwire Input module in each shed for your hardwire zones. As far as horn and strobe, either homerun from a 4 output snapcard located at the panel, or tap into the 4 wire run (as stated above) and put a hardwire output module in each shed (4 relays on each).

If your sheds are not located equal distance from the house, then run 4 conductor to the first one. From there, 4 conductor to the next, and so on, using the same theory of also hooking up hardwire input modules and hardwire output modules as well as keypads.

Now for the potential gotchas....Panel gives out 1amp of power. You start adding a bunch of keypads and other modules you have to watch this. You may have to add the 2 amp power supply (good news is it's a bus device and you can remote it like the other bus modules). You have 4,000 ft of total wire run available with 18 conductor. Make sure your under that.

I've done jobs like what you describe above with wireless. Just did one this weekend. Only had to add one repeater. Hard part about the wireless is you never really know for sure how many receivers/repeaters you'll need till you test everything...The big question for me is do I want to save labor by going wireless, or save my pocket book but spend hours and hours running wires?!
 
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Old 04-30-09, 01:24 PM
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Thanks GEGUY for the reply. Since my previous installation was mostly wireless, I have a few questions.

It seems like running one 4 conductor wire to each shed is the way to go. The keypad needs 4 wires. I'll install a hardwire input module in the shed to hook up each of the sensors as a separate zone, correct? I'll then install a hardwire output module in the shed to hook up the strobe and siren. I'm sure this is may seem obvious to many people, but if I only have 4 wires going to the shed, how do I hook up the hardwire output module, hardwire input module, and keypad with only 4 wires total? And, how/where are those 4 wires hooked up in the panel so that the keypad works, the sensors are recognized and my outputs work in only that shed when the contact is broken?

Also, I only have 1 shed that is heated all winter (the other 2 are not), and it's regularly in the teens or close to zero much of the winter. So, wireless would only really be an option for that shed, correct?

Thanks for your assistance!
 
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Old 04-30-09, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Nj70000 View Post
Thanks GEGUY for the reply. Since my previous installation was mostly wireless, I have a few questions.

It seems like running one 4 conductor wire to each shed is the way to go. The keypad needs 4 wires. I'll install a hardwire input module in the shed to hook up each of the sensors as a separate zone, correct? I'll then install a hardwire output module in the shed to hook up the strobe and siren. I'm sure this is may seem obvious to many people, but if I only have 4 wires going to the shed, how do I hook up the hardwire output module, hardwire input module, and keypad with only 4 wires total? And, how/where are those 4 wires hooked up in the panel so that the keypad works, the sensors are recognized and my outputs work in only that shed when the contact is broken?

Also, I only have 1 shed that is heated all winter (the other 2 are not), and it's regularly in the teens or close to zero much of the winter. So, wireless would only really be an option for that shed, correct?

Thanks for your assistance!
It's called "daisy chain" wiring....You've got your 4 wires running to the shed, hook up the keypad. Take another set of 4 conductor wires, wire those 4 wires from the keypad to the Hardwire Input or Output module. Repeat the same for the next module.

The original wire run from the panel to the shed gets hooked up at the panel's 12v, ground, bus A, and bus B terminals. Your keypad, input, output modules will have the same terminals as well.

If you want to run wires from the panel to your sensors in the sheds, they go from the panels hardwire zones (8 of them). If you need more than that, that's what the hardwire input module is for out in the shed.

Cold really doesn't affect wireless performance, moisture does (as in don't get them wet!). I've got RF devices (Concord) sitting outside all year (motions and door window sensors) going on 8 years now with no problems. You're battery will wear down a little quicker in the cold (like I said, motion outside MN winter, 8th year, still no low battery signal), but the key is that they don't get wet. What I have seen are wires not trenched deep enough, ground freezes, shifts a little and snaps wire.
 
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Old 05-02-09, 08:59 AM
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Thanks for the explanation. That certainly makes more sense. Do you have any recommendations on what type of cable to use on the run from the house to the shed (~300 ft). I think you mentioned 16/4, but is direct burial cable better or should it be placed in conduit? Or is that unnecessary? I also don't want to use low quality wire, so do you have any recommendations on where to buy it? Thanks again!
 
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Old 05-09-09, 12:37 PM
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Would I wire all of the buildings into the same inputs in my panel? Following your advice, I'm going to hardwire 2 buildings and use wireless on the remaining one. Can I wire both buildings into the panel in a similar manner? Thanks!
 
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Old 05-09-09, 01:24 PM
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Sorry to be such a bother, but we had a theft in one of the sheds last night. Good thing it was only a $150.00 battery... I guess that's why storage rental contracts are so important! Anyway, I'd rather deter these kinds of problems, so I'd like to get this system in ASAP. Since I'm installing 3 keypads, could I also just use the GE Concord 2000 Phone Interface Voice Module?

http://www.safemart.com/GE-Concord-A...777-01.htm.htm

Could I call in to the system from a cell phone and arm/disarm individual partitions?

Thanks again for all of the help!!
 
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Old 05-09-09, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nj70000 View Post
Would I wire all of the buildings into the same inputs in my panel? Following your advice, I'm going to hardwire 2 buildings and use wireless on the remaining one. Can I wire both buildings into the panel in a similar manner? Thanks!
If by "inputs" you mean zones, then you can run 8 of them to the panel. Any more than that, get either an input snapcard (6 zones) and/or hardwire input modules (8 zones).

Yes, you can use the Phone Interface Voice Module to arm and disarm both on site and remotely with any phone. Send me a PM for more info...
 
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