Safewatch Pro 3000EN Unresponsive. What did I do?

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Old 03-06-10, 05:44 PM
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Question Safewatch Pro 3000EN Unresponsive. What did I do?

Ladies and Gentlemen, thanks for reading.

I own a house with an unmonitored Safewatch Pro 3000EN (ADT version of ADEMCO Vista20P)

Main Board - SAVS20P3 Chip - WA3000-2.0A Pittman 2002Rev2.0A

Wireless Board - SA5882-3

1 keypad 6160V - SA6160V-4


I guess a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. I was using some of the information on this site to attempt to make the unit call a phone number (I know there's no voice prompt). While I was working, I seem to have made a mistake, but don't know what I did. Now the keypad is unresponsive.

When I downpower and re-energize, the first 5 button presses will give me a tone but do nothing, after that, not even a tone. I have tried to cut power (batt and AC) many times with no change in the results.

The unit will still chime on faults, but I cannot arm it, can't do anything on it.

I had the master code when I moved in and changed it to one of my own. I don't know if I ever had the installer code (didn't know there was one until I started looking at this site). I have tried to retrieve the installer code with those first 5 button presses, but it's not happening.

So here are my questions:

1. Is there a simple way to restore my system to operational without having to buy new equipment?

2. If not, what do I need to replace? (keypad, Main borad, just the chipset on the main board, what else?) What may be the minimum I have to replace?

3. I thought I read about a reset with a jumper on this site, but can't find it now. Is that something I can try before I decide to buy new hardware?
 
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Old 03-06-10, 09:31 PM
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j1mfrog, it sounds like you may have changed the keypad's address to something the control panel doesn't recognize.

Did you by any chance try to go into system programming mode after a power-up by pressing 1&3 sumultaneously within 60 seconds?

Just for chuckles, do that now--release the keypad latches (slots underneath) and take it off its backplate to give you access to its plug. Pulling and re-connecting the plug is the easiest way to power it down/up to get into local programming mode without having to run back and forth to the control panel. Local program mode affects only the keypad's programming, not the system programming. If you pause between entries for more than a few seconds, the keypad will drop out of local program mode without warning and you'll have to start over.


Power down & up and within 60 seconds, press 1&3together for about 3 seconds until a 2-digit number displays. That number is the current keypad address. If you have only one keypad, the address should be 16. If it is, then wait a few seconds until the keypad cycles out of local programming and let us know and we'll go from there, having eliminated a wrong keypad address as a trouble source.



If the KP address is any _other_ number, first clear it by pushing [0] twice, then enter 16 to program the correct KP address.

Then keep pushing ****..... until you cycle out of programming.

And post back and talk to us about how to get into _system_ programming.
 
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Old 03-06-10, 10:00 PM
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Address request worked. It is at address 16.

One thing I noticed when I took the front off is that the green wire is not connected. Is that a problem? Looking at the back of the panel on the four wire connector, the wires are Yellow Red Black Nothing in the fourth slot.
 
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Old 03-06-10, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by j1mfrog View Post
Address request worked. It is at address 16.

One thing I noticed when I took the front off is that the green wire is not connected. Is that a problem? Looking at the back of the panel on the four wire connector, the wires are Yellow Red Black Nothing in the fourth slot.
Um, yes, I think you've found your problem, j1mfrog. That green wire should definitely be in the plug.

See if you can work it in and let us know the result.
 
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Old 03-06-10, 10:26 PM
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Green wire back in. I can arm and disarm at will. Thanks. I guess I do remember taking the keypad front off when I was messing before, must have broken off then.

Yellow wire broke when I was hooking up the green. Got an open fault for that one. Green must not be supervised.

Thanks for the help.


Now on to my next projects.

1. Get rid of the communications fault

2. Make it dial a number

3. Add more zones. Is this difficult? Can I just buy wireless transmitters and the system will recognize them? I want to put a moisture sensor by my sump and have it monitored by the system.
 
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Old 03-06-10, 10:56 PM
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Next step is to see if you can get into programming.
ADT often (not always) used 6321 as an installer code. Just for grins, try pushing 6321 + 8 + 00 and see if [20] comes up on your keypad display. If it does, press *99 to get out of programming and post back.

If that code doesn't work:
Power down the control panel by unplugging battery and transformer. Power back up by plugging in transformer, running to the keypad and pressing [*#] simultaneously within 50 seconds of power-up.

If this puts the system into program mode, [20] will be displayed on the keypad. This is the Installer Code address in system programming. Press #20 and the Installer Code will be displayed, one digit at a time in 2-digit format. I.e., if fhe installer code were 6321, it would display as [06]...[03...[02]...[01].

Post back if you get into system programming and we can go from there.
 
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Old 03-07-10, 06:09 AM
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Hey! It worked! 6321 worked! Thanks so much. What do I do next?
 
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Old 03-07-10, 07:05 AM
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Do you have an Installation manual yet? If not, search the Web using the key words Ademco, Vista-20, Installation, manual. You may have to search through a lot of pay-for-download sites before you find it for free. You can find the installation manual for your 6160V keypad while you're at it. Download a user manual while you're at it, if you don't already have one.

I highly recommend you add at least one extra User Code if you don't already have one. The reason for this is that I've seen a lot of people post in here who made some little slip changing their Master Code and then discovered they couldn't disarm the system when they tested it. (Btw, quick-arming the system when you have just one untested code is a Very Bad Idea.) In that situation, your chances of unlocking your panel are Very Slim.

About adding zones: You will have to go into system (panel) programming to add any zones, hardwire or RF (wireless).

How many RF zones are already on your system? Offhand I don't remember if the SA5882-3 RF Reciever is the 8, 16, or 64-zone model. Is there a paper sticker on the PCB that indicates L, M, or H?
 
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Old 03-07-10, 11:33 AM
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Thanks for the great information and help.

I have the manuals around here somewhere, maybe not the keypad manual, but I can get it. I think I can work my way through adding a zone.

I have 2 user codes, thanks for asking.

Paper sticker says SA5882-3ENM. How many zones does that mean? I think I'm only using 4 wireless zones right now, 2 doors, 1 motion, and 1 fire.

I'd like to add 2 moisture, another fire, 2 carbon monoxide, a whole bunch of windows (or maybe just a few break sensors), overhead garage door, and maybe another keypad.
 
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Old 03-07-10, 01:05 PM
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Oh yeah. I may want to add door alarms to our pool gates. Is there a wireless transmitter for outdoors?
 
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Old 03-08-10, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by j1mfrog View Post
Green wire back in. I can arm and disarm at will. Thanks. I guess I do remember taking the keypad front off when I was messing before, must have broken off then.

Yellow wire broke when I was hooking up the green. Got an open fault for that one. Green must not be supervised.

Thanks for the help.


Now on to my next projects.

1. Get rid of the communications fault

2. Make it dial a number

3. Add more zones. Is this difficult? Can I just buy wireless transmitters and the system will recognize them? I want to put a moisture sensor by my sump and have it monitored by the system.
Got the communications fault cleared. I think I already owe ChosunOne a case of beer.
 
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Old 03-08-10, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by j1mfrog View Post
Got the communications fault cleared. I think I already owe ChosunOne a case of beer.
I'm glad to help, j1mfrog . This is one of my hobbies for fun.
And that's a safe offer: One, I have friends and families of friends waiting for me to visit in four other countries. I'm not likely to see Canada this decade.
Two, I can't stand beer. Please, no sympathy. It's an affliction I've learned to live with.


I'm not sure, but I think the "-3" ending of the 5882-3 receiver means you have the "M" (Medium) Receiver, 16 zones. That's probably enough, but you might think of using hardwire (HW) zones where they're easy enough to run.

If, for instance, your control panel is in an unfinished basement and you're adding smokes, CO sensors, windows, in the same basement, I think it's insane to spend the money for RF equipment where running wire is so easy. But I won't drone on about that since I have no idea of your layout. It is a rare circumstance where something can't be hardwired.
 
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