Vista 20p "bF", "dO", Rapid Random Beep, Check 100


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Old 03-24-12, 10:30 AM
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Vista 20p "bF", "dO", Rapid Random Beep, Check 100

I promise I have read Alarm Forum FAQ and Basic Terms and numerous (if not all) entries on this issue on this forum.

I have a “formerly” protection one, Vista 20p, with 2 “6150PL2” fixed alpha keypad. I have several RF/wireless sensors around the house (though I don’t have an RF keypad and do not see an obvious RF receiver anywhere) and the system had a “cellular backup” when it was monitored by Protection One, which is located next to the control panel.

We cancelled service, our dog literally broke off a door wireless sensor and used as a chew toy, and we disconnected our landline service. If I bypass everything (master code+6+#) the system lights “ready” and arms and functions normally, with the following exceptions: 1) “bF” and “dO” flash on the keypad along with “check 100”; and 2) every 12 hours or so, rapid beeping occurs, stopping only with pressing a button on the keypad.

I could live with the error messages and not having the door sensor activated, so really, the first order of business would be stopping that annoying rapid beeping (which I can only guess is a signal for me to “call for service”)
From my research (manual and internet), “bF” is a “long range radio” problem and “dO” stands for “dial out”. Also, “check 100” means check battery on wireless sensor (which I have guessed that the system is looking for the signal for the sensor AKA chew toy). I guess my course of action to stop the beeping would be to stop the system from dialing out and delete the zone with the wireless reciever (or add a new sensor maybe?)

Since I only have the 6150 fixed alpha, it looked like stopping the system from dialing was the easier task to tackle first. Below are my entries and system responses

1) Enter programming mode and entered *41* [3 rapid beeps], *42*[3 rapid beeps], *99 [a single digit “9” appears on the screen, then goes blank, then the system starts rapid beep]

2) Tried above procedure with adding *94*[3 rapid beeps], *92* with the same results

3) Tried above with adding *94*, *92 0 0, *99 with same results

I don’t know if my repeated attempts have subsequently turned on or off anything. Seeing that the exact same problem occurs, I would assume I have done nothing thus far to change any system settings.

I figured if I can’t bypass the phone dial out then trying to delete the wireless zone with a procedure I found on this forum would be too difficult.
Any suggestions? Is a 6160 upgrade required to fix this? Would I need a 6150RF?

Any help would be appreciated
 
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Old 03-24-12, 11:53 AM
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Here's the bad news: d0 means that ADT dialed into this thing and remote disabled the dialer.

Pretty much that means that, without their assistance, about all you can do with this thing is scrap the motherboard. Defaulting the panel _might_ work, since it's d0 instead of dl. don't bet the farm on it, most remote shut downs cannot be corrected with local programming, and if you do the default, you will certainly need the alpha keypad.

You have a wireless receiver. If neither of your keypads is a RF model, there's wireless receiver somewhere in the place (look for a small plastic enclosure about the size of a paper back book).
 
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Old 03-24-12, 04:58 PM
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Just disable the LRR [*29 0] to get rid of bF

'Check 100' is issue with keypad, pop off kpd to see if you have little red 'buttons' on the backs. Put a layer or two of tape where they make contact with the backplate and snap kpds back on. Then code + 1.

to find receiver physically trace out the wires [if you can] probably landed on terminals 4-7 on motherboard [4-conductor wire] as is the keypad and GSM.

If your GSM is about 8"-square and the cover is off, put the cover back on and see if the bF goes away [after code +1].

edit: the receiver will have two antennae, may be in your metal box with battery.
 

Last edited by tpring; 03-24-12 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 03-24-12, 05:37 PM
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"bF" not flashing, "d0" and check still flashing

Thank you both for quick responses. After I got the first response, I had a whole letter about which system would be the best to change out to for self installation while keeping my current RF sensors. However, the *29 0, has, for now, fixed the flashing "bF", so I have some hope now.

My keypad indeed has a single red button on one of the keypads (but not the other) and I placed the two pieces of tape on the back end of the panel where the button would make contact and entered the master code +1 but it is still flashing "Check 100".

Just to be sure, is the objective of the tape to ensure that the red button is constantly pushed?

I will give updates if about the random rapid beeping, but I just wanted to acknowledge the fast responses and say thank you. I hope we can come to a workable solution!

I am curious if the second responder agrees with the first, in that because the "d0" is flashing it means I must replace entire motherboard. I remain hopeful that we can avoid that.

Thank You Again.
 
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Old 03-24-12, 06:29 PM
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He meant that you would need a new board if you want monitoring other than P1.

...is the objective of the tape to ensure that the red button is constantly pushed?
- Yes, check 100 is an issue with the keypad [AFAIK] and often because of that red tamper switch not being depressed.


The dO is dialer off which means it was turned off remotely and can only be turned back on by the same equipment. [AFAIK]

edit: you could try depressing that button with your finger and do code+1 a couple of times to see if it is still not getting depressed enough. You can just hold the kpd in your hand while you do that.
 
  #6  
Old 03-24-12, 06:53 PM
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The keypad with the tamper switch is most likely your RF model wireless reciever keypad. (Why Honeywell/Ademco insists on putting the model label on the back of the mounting plate has always been a mystery to me...). The model number is lettered on the circuit board as well, it's just harder to read/spot.

Check 100 can be the tamper switch; but it can also be the reciever not getting signals from devices, It can also happen if the reciever address has been changed from 00, among several other reasons.
 
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Old 03-24-12, 08:41 PM
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Now we are getting somewhere!

Yes, my actual keypad is in fact a 6150RF, despite the lack of "RF" on the plastic casing. The "RF" information was located on the circuit board of the keypad.

I had to hold my finger on the button for more than 30 seconds and I kept punching in my code +1 when I finally only saw "d0" and nothing else! I am still trying to rig the plastic so that it presses that button when placed in.

Though remember, I still had that one RF zone that the keypad is programmed to recieve but there is no signal to be sent since my dog used as a chew toy. I will replace that sensor as soon as I know that beeping will not wake me up in the middle of the night as it has been doing. Please let me know if you think the random beeping will stop if I delete the zone, then I can attempt that as well(hopefully with assistance)


So I'm clear (and still hopeful) so the comment about scrapping the entire panel was only if I wanted monitoring that would call out? If so, that is great news since I only want this for the alarm itself and do not care about any calls out to anyone, including myself.

The rapid beeping typically happens after several hours so we'll see tonight. I'm crossing my fingers!

We're soo close!!
 
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Old 03-24-12, 10:21 PM
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Your can also tell the keypad is the 6150RF because you'll see the antennas mounted behind the keypad, the thin metal "bars" on the sides of the PC board.

The red tamper button on these is not used anymore because of these frequent CHECK 100 messages. These tamper switches are used on all alarm module devices: radios, zone expanders, RF receivers, wireless zone transmitters (the chew toy) and formerly RF keypads. They will all instantly cause the keypad to rapidly beep when their covers are removed-- this is called a "supervisory trouble". The system is telling you a device has been "tampered" with and you need to enter your code to "acknowledge" the system trouble condition.

The new chew toy should only be giving you an open zone ## and possibly a "CHECK ##" if the wireless transmitter has been opened. To clear the CHECK for the transmitter (if it is not damaged) you can either remount the device or just place it next to a magnet (you can take one off the refridgerator) and tape them together and just place somewhere safe-- just make sure the magnet you tape to it, or the one still on the door, are mounted on the long side if the transmitter with the two marks on it. Then you must clear the CHECK status by typing in master code and 1, you may need to do this 2 or 3 times. OR-- you can delete the zone in programming, but I would not recommend this :NO NO NO: as you will literally be doing it blindly in the programming menus without the assistance of the 6160 Alpha-numeric keypad to actually "see" where you are within the zone programming fields.

As for the beeping every 12hrs, it may be caused by a "24hr supervisory" zone programmed for a device on the system. It could be programmed for a low battery on the main panel, a radio battery, the system may have tried to send a 12hr test timer to central station (unlikely). The system may do a status check every 12hrs and when one test fails-- beepbeepbeepbeepbeepbeepbeep... If is still happens, note what the keypad shows is the problem. Unfortunately, with the 6150 keypad we're all left to write down codes and cross-reference them.

Hope that helps.
 
  #9  
Old 03-25-12, 11:31 AM
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I am now at 14+ hours without any rapid beep and with only "d0" (and "Not Ready") in the display!

I still havent tried placing the system in "ready" (by bypassing the broken sensor) or arming it, as I want to see if the non-beeping will keep up for another day or so.

I hope I am still able to use my system despite the "d0" flashing on my keypad. If I were to upgrade the keypad so that I could delete the broken zone OR replace and/or add more zones, is the 6160RF my only option if I wanted to use all my old wiring and RF sensors with the Vista 20p motherboard? I figure that maybe replacing the keypad may be easier than hoping that ball of tape holds up over time.

Many many thanks to all for the progress thus far! Your karma points are looking good!
 
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Old 03-25-12, 04:56 PM
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Firstly, let me commend you Worried_Parent for undertaking this task, by being prepared [with good info and reading/following the FAQ] and presenting it in a readable, easy to follow manner [among other things].

I have seen many posts [various forums] where people have everything from lack of usable information to poor grammar and, it is very painful to try to figure out what they are trying to say -- so often I don't bother. [I could go on and on...]

The 6160RF is not your only option but, probably your best. The V20 is a solid panel. You could replace that 'ball of tape' with a tiny round-headed screw about the same size.

Is the chewed sensor even usable? You might also consider an exterior siren, if possible.

edit: one more thing to consider --a bad/failing back-up battery can cause odd behavior [bulging sides, 7+years old, never been replaced, etc] and might be good idea to check.
 
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Old 03-27-12, 09:06 PM
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Mission Accomplished!

I’ve waited a few days to post as I was running several tests to get and provide true results. I am so happy to say that only “d0” flashes in my keypad, NO RANDOM RAPID BEEPING has occurred, my system armed and remained armed for the duration last night (11 hours) until I tested it by activating a zone. The alarm sounded and I then disarmed it. The way it should be.

For others, a summary of issues presented and solutions on my Ademco Vista 20p.

“Check 100” on 6150RF Fixed Alpha (keypad issue, red button “tamper switch” needed to be continuously pressed when keypad was in place on mounting)

“Check bF” Long Range Radio issue (in programming mode: *29 0) to disable LRR

“d0” or “dO” previous contracted monitoring provider remotely disabled the dial out capability making it virtually impossible for the system to call anyone or any company.

Random Rapid Beep [alerting home owner to problems with the system (in my case, the “check 100 and bF”)]

Just FYI for others out there, it has been years since I ran my system so I did have numerous “rapid beeps” even after the above issues were resolved but they were not random. I knew to look at the keypad and examine the zones indicated. I needed several new batteries on the frequently used RF zones and had to make sure I put the cover on 5816 precisely to make sure the tamper switch on the 5816 was pressed (otherwise you get more rapid beeps).

I also replaced my system battery with an identical one from radio shack, though it was 5Ah as opposed to 4Ah (which they assured me only meant that the battery would last longer when needed)

Amazingly, I found my dog’s chew toy AKA 5816 for my last missing zone. I guess she mostly ate the magnet which was connected via the loop terminals (Input 1) because the module is actually in fairly good shape, though the reed switch (input 2) is cracked and does not work with any magnets (already tested). I bypass that zone every time to arm the system.

This being my first series of internet post anywhere, I am not sure if it is kosher for me to ask just one more question or whether I should begin a new thread, but everyone here has contributed to the safety of my family so much thus far, I might as well go for the gold:

Even though the reed switch (input 2) is cracked and unusable can I still use this 5816 by using the loop terminals and a 5899? There are wires hanging out of the 5816 loop terminals where my dog was chewing so I think it was always connected that way. I’d buy a new 5816 but I only have the fixed alpha 6150RF and I (any many others here) have been warned about deleting and adding zones “blind” so I’m trying to rig this last zone.

Thank you all so very much
 
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Old 03-27-12, 09:34 PM
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Congratulations, submit your resume'!

If you are certain, you can still use the 5816 using the wired loop termials. You don't need to change any programming. You will need to get another wired contact (and magnet if necessary) and two pieces of wire (22/2) long enough to reach between the 5816 and edge of door/window next to magnet location.

OR

If you're okay with one less zone of protection and don't want to use the 5816 and have to keep bypassing it anymore, just connect a short piece of wire between the two terminals on the 5816 and wallah, your keypad will now be "READY" and no longer need bypassing.
 
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Old 03-27-12, 10:47 PM
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Yup! It took some work since I had about an inch of wire left from where the dog finished chewing, but I was able to disconnect the wires from the terminals, strip the end of the wires, reconnect them and twist the ends together. Sure enough, I now have a green light "READY" on my system!

You mentioned buying another magnet and wires. Would the 5899 "magnet and spacer" be the item to purchase? Would I need my own wires to connect to them? Is it just a matter of using the 5816 as a base then connecting wires from the 5816 terminals to the "spacer" and having the magnet on the door (in appropriate proximity of course)? Seems logical, but I thought I would ask just to be certain.
 
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Old 03-27-12, 10:50 PM
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Can't hurt to try the chewed sensor:

1 - Take the two little wires that are hanging out and strip back a little on each one to expose the 'actual' wire,
2 - turn on chime mode and pinch the wires together and then pull apart [a few times], you should hear the chime on the keypad [or you can watch for the green ready light]

Edit: didn't see last post - EXCELLENT

Yes, to your question, though I don't know what the 5899 is.
 
  #15  
Old 03-28-12, 02:58 PM
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Any 2 wires will work. You can use old wire dangling from an old accessory (hairdryer, power supply for that old cell phone you don't use anymore, whatever) It may not be pretty, but any wire will work. You can get a security contact online, or maybe at RadioHack. Not really sure where to get one in retail market. They're only a couple of dollars so if it's anything more than $10 keep looking. Honestly, you'll probably pay more for the shipping than the actual part.
 
 

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