Problem with Opening Garage Door Using CEII

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  #1  
Old 05-10-12, 10:25 PM
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Problem with Opening Garage Door Using CEII

Hi,

Have a new issue to run by the group.

My system has been installed for seven years and after a recent power outage (battery issue keeping system powered off for approximately a week) I'm having problems with the garage door opener button (#2) on my key fobs.

All the fobs will arm/disarm the system and the panic buttons work, but the garage door won't open or close with the middle button. This was working normally before the power outage. All other functions of the system are normal.

I had to replace my system battery, and the transformer.

my system is:

Vista 10SE
Honeywell/Ademco 6160 (This is newest part of system, approximately 2 months old)
Code Encryptor II
1 Motion Detector (wired)
No wireless zones
3 key fobs.

The 6160 is setup at address 31.

I have re-learned one of the fobs as a test. No change.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Bob
 
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Old 05-11-12, 04:21 AM
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The code encryptor is an third party add on (it's owned by Honeywell, but it's not a standard Vista component). They are popular because you get keyfobs without messing with Vista wireless programming.

CE manual: http://www.alarmhow.net/manuals/Stre...Manual%202.pdf
or
http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/7436ii.pdf

Disconnect the pair of wires that connect to the garage door and check them with a multimeter/continuity test. When you trip the button, the output should close (short). If it does, then the problem is in the door opener. If it doesn't change states, then whatever happened to kill your transformer may have damaged the CE II.
 
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Old 05-11-12, 05:02 PM
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Kind of thinking out loud here...

I didn't get a short between the red and gray wires when pushing button two on the remote. But I was able to short those two contacts on the connector and the door would open and close.

I don't hear any (relay) noise when pressing the #2 button on the remote. Troubleshooting in the CEII says to reprogram the fob. Did that, no difference.

I do hear a relay click (loudly) when pressing the #3 button.

When I remove and reconnect the CEII harness, it flashes 5 times which points toward a Napco-type control panel.

To me, it seems the #2 switch relay may have bitten the dust.

Opinions?
 
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Old 05-11-12, 08:07 PM
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With what you are reporting, I'm inclined to agree. These type of low current relays tend to fail open.
 
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Old 05-12-12, 09:08 AM
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I've ordered a replacement Code Encryptor II unit and will report back on success, or failure. At least the harness is already run. Should be just plug-in and program.
 
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Old 05-17-12, 10:31 PM
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Final update. I replaced the Code Encryptor II (CE2Y version for Vista 10SE) programmed in the code and it is working perfectly.

So, it seems the problem was the relay as we suspected.

Thanks again MrRonFL!
 
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Old 08-14-14, 06:39 PM
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Issue with garage door opener

I apologize for the thread resurrection.

I have a similar issue as described. I have the Code Encryptor II ver. N and just recently my garage door opener quit working. After isolating everything, I realized the problem is either with the key fob or CEII itself.

If I pull the small inline fuse that installer put in and reset the CEII, all is well and I can operate my opener at the Genie wall button ad infinitum.

However, if I depress the button on either key fob with the garage door picture (bottom left),
a.) I hear a click in the CEII,
b.) the door begins to operate up or down depending on the last position,
c.) I lose the ability to operate the door with wall button and key fobs.

My question is: Should I just replace the CEII module and assume the key fobs are operational?

I'm not savvy enough with my volt meter to know how to check for switches/relays that are stuck open.

Thanks in advance,
Bruce
 
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Old 08-14-14, 09:52 PM
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I wouldn't recommend just replacing parts.

If this also activates an alarm panel relay, you could try metering THAT circuit to make sure that relay is alternating -- though it does sound like a relay is sticking in the CEII board.

It would be easier to use a multimeter [than a voltmeter] to test for continuity of the circuit but, if you only have a voltmeter, you would need to probe around the circuit board [with one probe] and place the other probe on one of the soldering points of the relay. Then activate the relay to see when you lose voltage [though it may only be a very small amount of voltage].
 

Last edited by tpring; 08-14-14 at 10:32 PM.
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