How easy or difficult is it to replace ADT/Vista-20P keypad?

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Old 05-24-12, 02:43 PM
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How easy or difficult is it to replace ADT/Vista-20P keypad?

Hi folks,
I've been reading this board but haven't seen an answer to that question - here's the skinny on my situation:

1. Have an ADT branded Vista-20P, upgraded from the house's original Austronic alarm system. ADT replaced the old keypad with the barebones Ademco 6150 Keypad Fixed English keypad.

2. After accidentally setting off the alarm last week and NOT getting the customary instant phone call from the monitoring center, I learned about the dial-out delay (our customers preferred it, they said, I say BS! )

3. Of course I set off to find out how to change this via programming using the pad, also wanted to customize some other things without having to pay ADT's ridiculous $159 for 15 mins charge for a house visit.

4. On a tip from someone here, I opened up the main box and found the installer's guide (thanks!), but almost drove myself insane over the last two days trying in vain to get it into programming mode. Then I discovered something that I should have found in the first few minutes of my research - you CANNOT program using the basic keypad, you must have the two line alpha numeric "Custom English" keypad. (hopefully this post will save someone else from wasting as much time as I did after Google's bots crawl this site)

So I went back online and found some 6160's for sale on Ebay, a used Ademco for $75, and a new Honeywell for $90 (otherwise identical from what I can tell). But another thing I haven't found is step by step instructions for replacing a keypad, as in what is entailed - can a mechanically/electrically inclined homeowner do it with ease, and/or will there by hell to pay if ADT finds out? I don't rent the equipment - I paid for the system, so that's not in issue. But I can't even figure out how to remove the old one from the wall to start, no visible screws or bolts, certainly don't want to start yanking on it and potentially break off some plastic mounting tabs.

Can anyone give me some advice here?
TIA
 
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Old 05-24-12, 04:54 PM
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Actually, the dialer delay is one of the things that _can_ be programmed with the fixed keypad. It's only things like zone configuration (the menu mode programming items) that require the alpha keypad.

In any case, to change out the keypad, all you will need to do is set the new keypad to address 16 (the instructions will come with the new keypad). Once you do that, if you want to program zone descriptors, you will use the *82 menu programming (give your installer manual a good read through).

Double check your manual, do you have just the programming worksheets, or do you have the full manual? If you only have the work sheets, you need to websearch using the phrase "Vista 20p installer manual".
 
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Old 05-25-12, 07:55 AM
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I either have hard copies or downloads of all the manuals - 3 of them. How do I remove the old keypad - where are the mounting screws hidden?

But if I can change the delay with the existing keypad, that's good enough - I tried entering all possible standard installer's codes to get into programming but couldn't tell if I ever really got into that mode. How do I change the call-out delay to zero with a basic keypad and know that it "took"?
 
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Old 05-25-12, 09:49 AM
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ADT fusses if this forum posts their installer code, but it's commonly known:
ADT installer code - Google Search

If you are in programming, the first thing displayed will be "20"


[installer code] + 8 + 00
*50 0
Exit programming with *99
 
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Old 05-25-12, 10:43 AM
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There's the problem - I keep punching in the standard installer code xxxx800 but never get a '20' on the display, no beeps, no nothing - I keep seeing xxxx 8+0+0, not 800 but there's no plus key, of course - trying to get in using my master code followed by 801 or 802 does nothing either. What am I doing wrong?
 
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Old 05-25-12, 11:50 AM
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The standard Ademco installer code is not the one the ADT version uses. Some ADT franchises routinely disable local programming access. You can try the power up with * + # (the plus is just a writing convention commonly used for this stuff) outlined in the FAQ sticky (Alarm Forum FAQ (Please read before posting)).

The master user code cannot access porgramming and the installer code should not be used as an arm/disarm code.
 
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Old 05-25-12, 02:16 PM
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If I understand what you're saying, the tech likely exited with a *98 (or used something other than the 6xxx installer code printed in the manual I found in the box), but doing the power cycle will reveal whatever master code ADT uses (or the tech uses) and will over-ride the programming lockout? I think that's what the manual says too, now that I think about it.....

I found something else different from common systems: in the user's manual it says the master code + 802 (02 is system master, me) is supposed to be able to assign/change certain settings, but even that doesn't work as far as I can tell? No feedback from lacking a 2nd line of text is frustrating as all get out!

P.S. I was just reading another thread here, tried pressing 1 and 3 together to get the keypad address (tried yesterday but apparently didn't hold the buttons down long enough) and it says 17 - isn't it supposed to be 16? Perhaps the installer set his custom keypad as 16 and mine as 17 to prevent me from hacking into it or something? It's the only one in the house, no 2nd pad.

Also, checked the PCB inside the box, says "WA3000-9.12" and "D4186972" directly on the chip. I think the 1st number confirms that it's definitely a Vista-20P rebranded as a Safewatch Pro 3000EN?
 

Last edited by sts_66; 05-25-12 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 05-25-12, 02:21 PM
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[master code] + 8 + 02 + [new master code] + [new master code] is how you change the master user code. (no that second "new master code" isn't a typo.

Another quirk of Ademco style panels, when you enter these type of commands, you cannot hesitate more than a second or so between keystrokes or the command will not take.
 
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Old 05-25-12, 04:08 PM
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Ok, I think I'm really screwed now! I unplugged the battery and transformer, got the installer code (very weird one), hit *50 0 to disable the dial out delay, hit *99 to exit, but the screen now says "No AC"?!? Battery is plugged in, so is transformer, checked the voltage at the outlet (118V), the transformer taps (13.5 VDC), appears all is connected but the keypad says NO AC. WTF?

Just had a thought - the old system needed replace because the fuse blew - does the Vista-20P have one? I looked at the PCB and it doesn't look like it, nothing obvious that I can see?
 

Last edited by sts_66; 05-25-12 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 05-25-12, 05:28 PM
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The output of the transformer is 16VAC. As long as you didn't short the transformer output, it should be fine.

You may still be in programming. "no AC" shows on the display if you are in any programming mode.
 
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Old 05-26-12, 09:19 AM
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I think I *am* stuck in program mode, but can't get out of it - when I hit *99 nothing happens, or I see random numbers. I also tried hit ******* to see if I could wade through unseen prompts, then hit *99 again, still no joy. I have a couple questions that may help me escape this though:

1. Does the order of removing AC and battery power need to done *exactly* the same when reconnecting? Because I don't think I did it the same - first pulled AC, then unplugged the battery, got the installer's code, tried to exit, then hooked up the AC, then the battery. I think I've read that they need to be done in reverse order but not sure? As in -AC -DC +DC +AC?

2. Would pulling the power from either the box or the keypad (or both) possibly get me out of programming mode?

3. You said output of transformer is 16VAC - typo? I measured it at the taps in the box, reads 13.6 VDC (no AC signal), which is what I'd expect from a transformer - never seen an AC/AC drop down converter. Manual says output is 16.5 VAC though, same as you said - that's rather bizarre!? Why am I seeing DC voltage but no AC? Any way to test the transformer output?

I thought it was an AC/DC converter, and since it has 3 wires attached at the terminals it's obviously powering the main box, the sensors, and the keypad, so a voltage drop is to be expected when measuring inside the box. But if it's really supposed to be AC then I guess the transformer is fried, but have no idea WHY?

[quick edit: I was measuring at taps 4 and 5, output to the battery and keypad, which *is* supposed to be 10.5 -13.8 VDC. Me big dummy! Just rechecked the wiring diagram and found that taps 1 and 2 are inputs from the transformer, I'm measuring 18.5 VAC - a tad higher than what it's supposed to be, but at least now I know the transformer is working. Whew!]
 
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Old 05-26-12, 03:03 PM
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Ok folks, here's the scoop - finally stumbled upon a solution to get out of program mode, thought I was home free - ran a system test, everything appeared to be working, then my internet went down, and along with it my VOIP connection to ADT. After I rebooted the modem and got back online I went to check the system again, but now it was blinking "check" + two totally illegible characters, could have been anything. RTFM (again) to find error codes, thought it might have been flashing "01", which is my front door - opened and closed it several times, no beeps from the keypad. NUTZ!

I spent all frigging day (>6 hrs) troubleshooting things, tested the door switch - working as a switch but not communicating with the panel - traced the wire from the front door in the basement until it disappeared into the ceiling where the wires go to the box in a hall closet, wiring is intact (not cut). Got the wiring diagram and started checking things inside the box:

1. Checked resistance of inline resistors - 1.9k ohms, exactly what they're supposed to be, none shorted or fried. One weird thing is the tech put them all on the opposite leg of what the diagram showed, but it was working, guess it doesn't matter.

2. Second weird thing is that continuity checks across the screw terminals for each pair of wires made the keypad beep twice (like a door opening causing open circuit) except for Zone 2 (#10, #11), which is the deck door. Huh?

3. Third weirdness - voltage checks for each pair showed ~ 5 VDC for each pair except Zone 1, the problem zone, which measured 14 V (?!?!).

Around 5:00 pm someone at ADT finally noticed that something was amiss with my system and called me, they said the scrambled letters were "OC" - open circuit. Reh-Rho! Manual says OC = keypad is not communicating with the main unit (not true except for Zone 1). Got to a tier 2 tech support gal, told her (yes, a she) about all of the above discoveries, plus that I had also pulled the keypad off the wall to try to find a reset button - it didn't have one, so I pulled the black wire to remove power while the system was hot. A very bad idea, I later learned from other threads here, might have screwed up part of the keypad circuit board - but except for the front door sensor not working and the constant "Check OC" blinking everything else is working fine. Mostly. Seems like some of the keys need to be hammered pretty hard now to get them to accept entries......maybe another sign of a fried keypad? Man, I really shoulda slowed down and thought things through before yanking that wire.....I own a wrist grounding strap and used to get yearly retraining at work for ESD hazards (up to date certs were req'd to be allowed into the clean room to work on hardware), let alone the stupidity of messing around with hot systems unless troubleshooting demands it be done that way....I know better than that! :NO NO NO:

To make a long story short (too late, I know), they put me in test mode for the time being and told me to power down the system for a while then power up to see if it resets everything. Going to go power it up right now - someone say a prayer or two, please!

NO JOY. CRAP! As soon as I plugged the transformer back in, the keypad started beeping like crazy, like 120 times/min (anyone know what that means?), got it to shut up quickly but the "Check OC" or whatever it is blinking on the display. Hmmm...since I can't read the characters (they're not fully formed), perhaps the LCD display got a tad messed up too?

If I'm lucky, I just effed up the keypad - ghod help me if I managed to somehow mess up something on the main circuit board in the tin box. If anyone here has any other brilliant ideas for further troubleshooting, please share them! Or just tell me I'm a moron and to keep my hands off of everything and let a pro fix it.

Guess that "it would be nice to have a 6160" just turned into a priority

P.S. If anyone else here is looking to upgrade from the lame 6150 to a 6160 (or need other parts), I just ordered one online from the Home Security Store - they're having a Memorial Day sale, everything is 10% off - got a great price, lowest anywhere I could find ($78.65) - almost as low as the price a guy wanted for a used one on Ebay!

6160 | Ademco Alpha Keypad | Home Security Store
 

Last edited by sts_66; 05-26-12 at 04:16 PM.
  #13  
Old 05-26-12, 05:48 PM
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Got alot goin' on

I wouldn't worry too much about pulling off the power wire on the keypad -- I do it frequently and have never had any problems -- These are 'hardy' electronics.

About the LCD display -- these do go bad over time. You may be able to firmly press against the glass and see the rest of the characters if a display code does not make sense. Stiffer keys is probably your imagination.

About the OC, meter the terminals on the back of the keypad [black/red, black/white, black/green. You should get something like 12VDC, 5VDC, 5VDC].

Meter your zone loops for continuity. Remove one leg [one zone at a time] and meter -- should be about 2k ohms. Make sure doors and windows are shut.

CS on the display is clock reset. Could that be what is showing on the keypad? That will happen after a power reset.
 

Last edited by tpring; 05-26-12 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 05-27-12, 10:55 AM
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Wow. What a great bunch of answers/suggestions! I think you hit everything square on the head that I need to check - especially the possibility of "CS" being displayed. I've done two power cycles, one brief the other 1/2 hr - 1st may not have been long enough to drain any clock capacitor that might be there to keep it alive during brief power outages if there's no backup battery installed - and I didn't have any blinking display stuff after the 1st one either.

Ordered a 6160 last night, should be here by the end of the week, but I'll check the manual for how to set the clock to see if that fixes the current keypad for the time being.

Muchas Gracias, tpring!
 
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Old 05-28-12, 04:37 PM
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Uh.....hmmmm.....tried measuring voltages at the terminals of the keypad like you suggested (put probes on terminal screws, didn't unhook the wires), and got very different measurements than your "[black/red, black/white, black/green. You should get something like 12VDC, 5VDC, 5VDC]" comment indicated.

For one, wire colors are red/black/yellow/light blue, secondly, only red/black yielded a steady voltage (13.5 VDC) - any combination of B/Y, B/Bl or Y/Bl gave me a flaky meter display whether the unit was set for AC or DC - in DC mode I saw a continuously changing voltage from 10.5 V to 13.6 V. Checked the manual, green is data out from the panel and yellow is data in from keypad, byt I don't know what to expect on those lines, as in is data transmitted digitally or analog.

Resistance and continuity tests of the zones all yielded the same info - with switches closed, R ~ 2k ohm (would indicate front door switch and wiring is intact like I thought), but the continuity tests were bizarre - meter was reading something around 1220 (units?) with doors closed, went to 1. on open, but the meter never beeped to indicate continuity - maybe the 2k resistor drops the voltage so low the meter can't push through it? Didn't try to bypass the resistors, ADT put some kind of hard shrink wrap material or some type of crush-type terminal on the connections, don't want to accidentally cut the wires (or myself) trying to get through the outer layer.

I also tried your "push on the LCD screen to see better" tip, definitely have one of the numbers now - it's alternating flashing 28 (confirmed) and either 02, 82, 88, or 92 - fields 28 + 02 appears to be "phone module disabled", 92 is for phone line monitoring. Dunno if having the system placed in test mode by ADT on their end is what's causing those codes or not?

Seems as if I'm at a stalemate here until I get the 6160 keypad and take the system off test mode from ADT's end.....since the front door switch/wiring appears to be ok, maybe I accidentally entered some command while stuck in programming mode that did something weird to that zone? I know I (finally) exited programming via a series of keystrokes I found on the FixYa or Ehow sites, not the *99 method commonly described here, and I hit numerous combinations of those codes until it finally "took" - likely another reason not to attempt to program with a 6150!
 
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Old 05-28-12, 06:02 PM
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OK, I misspoke about the voltages [thinking of another panel] should all be in the 12.5-13.5 VDC range. Sounds like something is going on here. To figure out if the cause is the keypad or the main panel -- remove wires at panel and meter panel terminals.

Resistance/continuity should be done with at least one of the two wires removed from panel -- do not meter for res/cont while landed on main panel [only meter for VDC on panel]. Use the ohm setting, not setting that will make meter beep when door closes.
 
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Old 05-29-12, 07:21 AM
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To test resistance/continuity of each zone I pulled pairs of wires for each zone from the panel one pair at a time, so I was checking values the wires/switches/sensors by themselves, isolated from the panel and keypad. Given the R values were all ~2k, I assume the sensors/wires are indeed intact. It was the continuity tests that confused me, but then again I can't recall doing that test with this meter on a high resistance circuit before....

Just had an idea.....the installer left a couple spare 2k resistors in the box, just checked them with the multimeter (a high quality digital one), got the exact same results as I did while checking the switches. Apparently, the MM doesn't have enough juice to test continuity for high resistance circuits.

So the remaining weirdness needing checked is the variable DC voltage on the keypad data in/out lines - are you suggesting I pull the data wires from the panel and measure DC output from the terminals with the keypad therefore disconnected?
 
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Old 05-29-12, 02:59 PM
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Yes, keypad is 4-wire cable. I would start with removing that wire and metering terminals 4,5,6 & 7. Should get the aformentioned results -- blue/yellow may be slightly lower. Also, meter the old wire, while it is disconnected, for short or open.

Meter reading on data won't be steady as data is being sent, but should be in a small range. I am betting your keypad is showing a C S rather than 02. These numbers do not correlate to the field (*) numbers. They will be from the keypad messages towards the back of the install manual.

Btw, is that 6150 an RF? Any wireless zones?
 

Last edited by tpring; 05-29-12 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 06-10-12, 08:03 AM
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New Keypad installed, New Problems!

Been quiet while waiting for the new 6160 keypad to arrive since none of my troubleshooting efforts were giving answers. It finally came, and I finally installed it - took me a couple power cycles to get the hang of things, for one because the installer code appears to be part of the keypad hardware, not the main panel? Or I was getting the wrong info from the old keypad - because power up * + # gave me a unique code I've never seen before, it's nothing like what I thought the old one was either?

Anyway, I got the code and started programming, kinda tedious but managed to do the things I want to change (no burglary dial out delay, shortened entry delay, put my cell in as a pager to get text alerts, etc) - but one weird error code kept appearing, and another overnight!?

1. "Check 100 RF Receiver" - according the the manual's Alpha Descriptor list, 100 is the hall infrared sensor - but it's hard wired and it works (tested it) - WTF? There are no wireless sensors in the system, all hardwired - is the kp complaining about something else it expected to see that's not there? [Edit: Found another thread here saying check the model # of the old kp, mine was 6150ADT, wasn't an RF model, that's not the issue]

2. Overnight something else happened - I was woken up by a slow chime, didn't recognize the sound, finally checked the kp and yup, it was the source, now also showing "Check 20" - what the heck is that? It's the field for installer code, why would it show as an error? Oh wait, on the Alpha Desc list it says 20 = Bell -- what bell?

Two other nits:

The old system made a nice loud sturdy "BEEP", the new one makes this almost effeminate polite little chime, like a wind-chime, not very loud either. Is there any way to change the entry chime to another sound like you can do with modern phones that have several ring tones to choose from?

The $%&# front door sensor or whatever is STILL not working!
I'm at a loss here to do anything else except try to replace the door frame switch - anyone know where I can order one (besides ADT, of course!)? Or is one of the above error codes trying to tell me something about that zone?

TIA
 

Last edited by sts_66; 06-10-12 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 06-10-12, 08:24 AM
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quick note

May want to default the keypad and start over.

Installer code has nothing to do with keypad [per se], maybe you changed I/C by accident.

Check 100 should go away once you've entered your code + 1 a couple of times. You can always turn off the receiver [inside the keypad].

Not sure about check 20 [I'll check], but that does not correlate with field 20.

Sound is softer, I prefer it [myself] -- I think you are SOL [the 6160V has a volume control.

Sensor 01 -- put a 2k resistor [by itself] on panel to see if fault clears.
 
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Old 06-10-12, 09:21 AM
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Entered master code +1 5-6 times, no joy, still seeing "check 100 RF receiver" message.

Field 20 check gone for now, probably from me hitting code +1 this morning.

Having a weird IC isn't really a problem, I have it written down and it works, not going to default the entire system, would have to go thru every single setting and copy them down to recreate things - WAY too much work.

Your comment about sensor 01 - I assume you mean Zone 1, i.e. my front door that's not working? What should I expect to see/hear/happen when I pull the two wires off terminals 8,9 and connect the terminals (not wires) with a 2k resistor?

[Edit: New news, even more confused now! I was trying to see if perhaps the front door sensor had accidentally been bypassed, hit code + 6 + #, no zones bypassed. Tried to bypass Zone 1 (which is supposed to be front door) on purpose, hit code + 6 + 01 and "03" showed on the kp, it disabled the hall IR sensor! What the heck is going on here? Also showed a "Fault 03" when I put duct tape over the IR motion sensor yesterday to test things without needing to stand still - that sensor is a foot from the kp. The more I dig the weirder this gets.....]
 

Last edited by sts_66; 06-10-12 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 06-10-12, 09:37 AM
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You can default keypad separately from panel.

You should see zone 1 clear [no fault] if you still have a fault then issue is with terminals 8 & 9 [or programming, if changed].

Make sure nothing is programmed for sensor 20.

Is 6150 still connected to panel?
 
  #23  
Old 06-10-12, 09:49 AM
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Question #1: Is your new keypad possibly a 6160_RF_? If so, it will display a check 100 unless you either enroll a wireless device, or disable the wireless reciever in the keypad setup.

Question #2: Do you have any zones numbered above 9? If so, then you may have a wireless receiver and not realize it.

If you take the wires off of zone 1 and replace them with a 2k resistor, the zone should close. I strongly suspect that you simply have a bad door contact.
 
  #24  
Old 06-10-12, 09:52 AM
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Bypassing

Master code + 6 + TWO-DIGIT ZONE number
 
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Old 06-11-12, 08:22 AM
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Sorry for dumb question, my head is spinning from trying to read 3 different docs at the same time to get this figured out....how do I "Make sure nothing is programmed for sensor 20"?

BTW, got woken up at 1:00 am with the darn thing beeping again, another "check 20" fault - I noticed that I lost internet connection both nights I got that error, and since I have VOIP perhaps it's related to some sort of dial-out check going on at regular intervals? Can I disable that, and if so, should I?

As far as questions about anything RF related, have never had any RF components, neither old 6150 or new 6160 have "RF" suffixes. I'm seriously thinking about putting the old keypad back in place now that I've gotten things programmed, maybe mounting the 6160 in the hall closet with a quick disconnect harness or inline power switch so it's only enabled when I need to change something. I assume I just hook up a 2nd keypad by cutting up an old phone ext cord and using the wires to connect the kp to terminals 4-7 in the panel?

P.S. Speaking of wires, found another thread here that mentioned something about "use Y G R B wires, ignore the blue one" - the wires coming out of the panel are Y G R B, but the ones hooked up at the kp have always been Y R B + very light blue - don't know what that's about, but since everything always (used to) work don't believe that's relevant?

Update 12:10 pm - got one problem solved - somehow Zone 20 had been set up as a wireless zone (?), used the "RF sniffer" mode to find that out, used *56 to delete zone 20, now Check 100 error is gone. Whew! Now to get that darn front door sensor fixed!
 

Last edited by sts_66; 06-11-12 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 06-11-12, 09:30 AM
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That just means that the 4 conductor wire the original installer bought had a blue insulated 4th conductor rather than the more common green.

The blue wire that they are talking about is on some versions of the keypad harness of the alpha keypads. It was intended for a function that was never really implemented, and later models stopped shipping with it.

If you actually connected it to a keypad data connection it would make some odd glitches.
 
  #27  
Old 06-11-12, 09:55 AM
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Re: VOIP

I've heard/found that VOIP can be spotty with alarm panels. You may find it works great for you, or you may find that it works, sometimes.

You might want to test it frequently, you can set up one of the keypad buttons for that feature.

My two cents.
 
  #28  
Old 06-14-12, 02:56 PM
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VOIP *did* screw up the alarm call-out function initially, but a tech came out and fixed it a while back (didn't realize it wasn't working for almost 6 months!).

Okay folks, I finally got around to putting a 2k resistor across terminals 8,9 in the panel, the front door sensor - NADA, ZIPPY, NOTHING - not a peep from the keypad. Now what? Is that circuit fried on the board? Recall that I was measuring a weird voltage across the terminals, something close to 14V, while the other zones were pinging around 5 VDC.

Any ideas what could be wrong or what to check next? I'm about out of ideas now, don't want to have to pay ADT $160 plus $45/15 mins to come troubleshoot it if I can avoid it.....
 
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Old 06-14-12, 03:14 PM
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Yup, that was the critical test. If the zone doesn't close with just the EOL resistor, then the input is fried. The only fix is a new motherboard (which you would need to recreate your existing programming from scratch on).

It's an uncommon failure, but not unheard of.
 
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Old 06-14-12, 09:51 PM
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NADA, ZIPPY, NOTHING - not a peep from the keypad.

Are you saying that the 'Fault 01' went away when you put on the resistor, you got no chime when testing it with the resistor, or it made no difference [keypad still shows fault 01]?

The former means the issue is in the wiring to the front door -- If you 'strap out' the terminals with a resistor, opening the door won't have any effect because it is not connected with the panel.
 
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Old 06-15-12, 07:50 AM
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I have no fault codes showing at this time. I disconnected the front door sensor wires in the panel and put the resistor across terminals 8 and 9. Nothing happened when I connected or disconnected one end - no beep, no sound, no fault showed on the keypad. Nothing. Didn't bother trying to open or close the door, sensor was disconnected.
 
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Old 06-15-12, 09:19 AM
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Q

You have eliminated the field wiring because the zone doen't open and close with just a resistor on the input.

You have eliminated programming by verifying that the zone is set to a valid zone type.

Q.E.D.: The zone input has failed. All you can do is replace the motherboard.
 
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Old 06-16-12, 08:40 AM
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Instead of replacing the motherboard can I wire up the door sensor to unused zones/terminals in the panel? Terminals 18-19-20 are empty (Zones 7-8). I assume the first things to do are:

1. Check the keypad to see if the zones are active, and if not program them.

2. Connect a 2k resistor across one of the pairs (19 is common to 18, 20) to make sure the circuit board works.

3. Then move the wires from 7-8 to 18-19 or 19-20.

Should be that simple, right? Although ADT may need to be informed that Zone 1 is now inactive and replaced with zone 7 or 8?
 
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Old 06-16-12, 02:43 PM
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BOOYA! BACK IN BUSINESS, FINALLY!!!! is fully functional

Switched the front door sensor wires to Zone 8 (terminals 19-20), programmed the zone to be active as 2nd entry (I usually use the side door), named all the zones with their "real" names (front door, side door, etc.), tested the system, and EVERYTHING WORKS!! WOOHOOO! Time for

Thanks to everyone for your help, it was invaluable and the support kept me at it without getting overly frustrated. Still going to put the 6150 back in place and set it to non-addressable 31, then install the 6160 in the closet with control panel, and jigger up a switch so I can power it off at will - hopefully won't need to get back into programming mode again, ya never know, but that's a job for another day.

Time to relax on the couch with a cold beverage and watch Tiger try to win the U.S. Open
 
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Old 06-16-12, 07:20 PM
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and set it to non-addressable 31
Never tried that, but not sure you can use 31. If it doesn't work -- just set the address to the next one after the 6160.

Congratulations, now it's time to partition out the system.
 
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Old 06-16-12, 09:18 PM
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You cannot use non-addressed mode on a Vista 20p/SW3000. You need to activate address 17 for the second keypad.
 
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Old 06-17-12, 08:00 AM
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Ok, will do. Weird though - the 6160 was out of the box set to default address 31 when I got it - why would they ship that way if 31 doesn't work w/Vista-20P?
 
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Old 06-17-12, 09:32 AM
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Because that keypad works on about 20 different models, not all of which use keypad addressing.
 
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