Help Installing 5132-433 w/ PC5010

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Old 08-13-12, 12:36 AM
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Help Installing 5132-433 w/ PC5010

Great respect to MrRonFl who not only moderates but contributes his vast knowledge to this forum and its many grateful readers...

I recently purchased Envisalink 2 DS after not touching the 5010 since 08 when I added RS232 and a relay to my Vantage System. After a flawless install I decided I would add a 5132 so that I could supervise garage and two remote building. Programming sensor to 5132 seemed simple enough from its manual on-line, so I ordered one somewhat forgeting how challenging programming the 5010 can be...

At this point I would be happy installing a single 904PL in the garage.

Also when I was mucking around I seem to have enabled trouble code 5 and when I hit five again, all eight leds on the panel are illuminated (???) I am hoping that this will not require a reset but suppose I am prepared to do that if it comes to it...

Anyway back to the wireless, when the 5132 is powered, leds flash a few times and then remain unlit...hopefully this is normal.

Z1-8 are wired, so motion sensor to 002: 03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 (for instant on z9)

Zone attribute in 109: 8 on for wireless

Enrole wireless device to zone: 804 09 ESN (* key for hex shifts on/off)

Assign Z9 to P1: 203 1. This makes the keypad beep. Me thinks this is not good. Wife unhappy with beeping keypad. I unassign Z9 from P1. Thinking this has something to do with it at least in part although unclear why issue.

Battery in sensor. Sensor lights on...no lights on 5132.

Manual says green for enrolled, red for unenrolled (should get one or other, right?)

Thank you so kindly once again for any assistance.
 
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Old 08-13-12, 02:20 PM
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My suspicion is that you didn't exit the wireless module programming when you tried adding the device to partition. Remember, for these DSC panels, the # key is essentially the enter key, and it's usually safer to make one change at a time and exit programming between steps when you aren't iron-clad sure of the programming syntax.

You can default the wireless receiver without defaulting the whole system (*8 [installer code] 996). Your base system programming looked right, up to that point.
 
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Old 08-13-12, 03:00 PM
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Thank you, sir.

I do recall you suggesting single programming changes previously and I normally stick to that advise for the reasons you cite.

However, I shall try defaulting the wireless as you suggest.

Any idea what I may have done to get error code 5 for eight of eight leds (on pressing five again?)

Also, any idea why keypad beeps when trying to assign Z9 to P1? I am thinking it won't work w/o that change.

Finally, shouldn't I be getting one of the two lights on the wireless when adding the battery to the sensor?

Thanks again,

Jon
 
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Old 08-13-12, 05:34 PM
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Actually, those LEDs on the 5132 board are basically meaningless (at least for an end-user). I think they are used for certain factory diagnostics but not really in the field.

For most of your odd symptoms, it's kinda hard to say. There are too many variables to provide any real suggestions with the information available.
 
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Old 08-14-12, 01:19 PM
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I have the 5132 communicating w/ the sensor in that the tamper switch faults / unfaults the panel.

It still won't trigger the alarm like the delayed entry door sensors (03)

So, 01 should work for other sensors...at least according to the manual.

Is this correct? Any ideas what I may be missing?
 
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Old 08-14-12, 01:54 PM
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Ok, so I tried setting 002 as 03 and Voila! It works...albeit w/ delay, but I can live with that.

So now back to the issue from several years ago where I could never get the glass breaks to alarm even though I could get the red led to light as you suggested using keys...

Thinking that this may have to do with how my system for whatever reason interprets 01, I try setting the glass breaks to 03.

Still no luck. Aside from the 01 not working issue, I am wondering if maybe the glass breaks are wired incorrectly?

I am wondering if I might just replace them with motion sensors?

Any thoughts?
 
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Old 08-14-12, 03:11 PM
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Simple test: Arm the system, wait for the delay to time out, and disconnect the zone wire at the head end. If you get an alarm, then your programming is correct, and your fault is in either your field wiring or in your alarm device (more likely the field wiring).

If you _don"t get an alarm, then the problem may be programming.
 
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Old 08-16-12, 12:44 PM
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When I disconnected one of the glass break sensors as you suggested it triggered the alarm, so programming as I suspected is OK. Thank you very much!

The glass breaks are not DSC. They say Sentrol. I pulled one out and they have four wires...red and black being power I'd assume and yellow and green being signal. Not much to mess up there. However, since Z1 - Z3 are door contacts, this leaves only five terminals for ten glass breaks. Based on the test I'd assume they are normally closed, so they'd have to be wired in series.

So I guess I could either try and analyze the jumble of wires at the panel, buy a tester or I could replace them with motion sensors. This would have the added benefit of being able to leave windows open and protect against skylight entry. What might you suggest?

Thanks again,

Jon
 
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Old 08-16-12, 05:50 PM
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The most common mistake made with devices like glassbreaks (and motions) is that people will try to wire them in parallel, not realizing that _all_ devices in the loop have to trip to generate an alarm.

Sentrol makes pretty good glassbreaks. They are one of the industry standards. For devices like this, not being made by the alarm control manufacturer isn't really an issue.
 
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Old 08-18-12, 09:11 PM
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They are wired in series.

Jingling the keys makes the led on the sensors light but does not appear to open the circuit such as to cause an alarm.

I am considering replacing a few and/or supplimenting with motions.

How does that sound short of buying a glass break?

The led lighting should open the circuit thus causing an alarm per the test, right?

Thanks,

Jon
 
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Old 08-19-12, 10:33 AM
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Your call. I would recommend looking up the model number of the glassbreaks and checking the user/install manual for the exact test procedure. These things can be difficult to test without a glass simulator.

When you are trying your test, is the telltale flickering on and off, or is is latching on for a moment? Remember, these things are configured to minimize false alarms.
 
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Old 08-24-12, 10:02 AM
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It flickers...I am thinking based on your statement that it needs to latch and that as you state one ideally needs the (matching) tester, correct?

Any experience w/ using mp3 sounds of glass breaking?

If the meantime I am adding motion sensors as back up now that I've got the wireless going.

Thanks again,

Jon
 
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