additional siren for DSC PC5010

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Old 10-29-12, 06:10 AM
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additional siren for DSC PC5010

Hello and starting this as a new thread, as my previous used thread got a bit off topic and confusing. I have a DSC PC5010 alarm system...(5501Z keypad) and wish to (series) wire another exterior type alarm/strobe to the interior alarm. In the box, it states "max 700ma". I've run a 2 pair (4 conductor) cat3 wire to the exterior location. This run would be < 100'. I intend to use 2 conductors for 1 alarm post and the other 2 conductors for the other post. My question is...I do not want to somehow "overdrive" the circuitry of alarm, uh, so would any old exterior siren work, that doesn't require over 700ma? Link me to a siren, if you choose. I want to get something ordered and mounted before the snow flies here in Indiana. Thx, DM
 
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Old 10-29-12, 05:33 PM
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The lowest draw typical exterior 12v siren (Speakers Sirens and Strobes) is going to draw about 500-600mA, and your existing interior device draws 300-500mA (what does the label on the inside of the device say?). Strobes add even more (200+ mA).

What would happen? If you overload the output circuit, the system will shut off power to the sounder circuit.

You have two choices:
  1. Add a power supply and relay to drive the sirens and strobes.
  2. Use a siren driver board (ELK-100 Siren Driver module) and change your existing device to a speaker and use a speaker for your exterior device. Even that combo is going to draw 600-700ma
.
 
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Old 10-29-12, 07:17 PM
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Hello. I'll get my siren down tomorrow and see what the draw says...if it's there. I do appreciate your device. I suppose I could forgo the strobe, and just run another siren. It's just that our private subdivision has no street lights, and a few houses. I thought it'd be unique to have the strobe as for the neighbors to pinpoint the correct property.
 
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Old 11-01-12, 06:24 AM
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required info available

MrRon....here is my alarm....
SD 15W-ULF - DSC 15 Watt Dual Tone Alarm Siren
(the yellow steady wire is not being used)

I alread stated I ran the 2 pair cat 3 wiring. I can splice wiring in at around 70' or I can run the distance to the box, which will end up at nearly 150'. This is solid core wiring. If I need to pull the propper wire, I should be instructed to do so now. If what I have will work, then advise of this as well. Per the circuit board instructions...I'd need to add something no more than 350ma to allow this to work. I would like to do a strobe with siren, without adding an additional power supply. Thx for your advice. DM
 
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Old 11-01-12, 05:16 PM
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Your wire will work just fine. The thing that _won't_ work is the amount of current that you are trying to put on the output. You simply will not find an exterior siren and strobe that won't overload this system, especially with the voltage drop of the wire.

If you want this configuration, you will _have_ to budget in additional power.
 
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Old 11-01-12, 06:04 PM
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Mr. Ron...if i just hook up and additional siren, will that wire work, as long as it's under 350ma? Can I just splice and tie into existing, or does it need to be run the entire length to the box? Thx, DM
 
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Old 11-05-12, 07:28 PM
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The wire isn't the issue. It will work just fine (as stated before).

Yes, you can parallel on the end of the existing circuit. (I personally prefer a home run where possible, but I'm a redundency kinda guy...)

As long as you are below the panel current limits for total current draw, it will work.

Their 700mA limit isn't a red line. You can fudge it _a_little_. You will know if you have too much load, because when you test the sirens, after a few seconds, the sound will shut off, and keypads will simply go dead. If that happens, disconnect the AC and battery, then disconnect the excess load, and restore power. The PTC will reset after a few moments with the power off.
 
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Old 11-05-12, 07:59 PM
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got it and thank you. i've been busy blowing insulation, and was hoping that wire would serve the purpose. Is that speaker I got in my house ok, the one I listed, or should i replace it, and get 2 identical speakers, so there is not any type of draw differences? I was told that spk I have is way outdated...and that don't mean anything, unless maybe I was going to run another spkr, which is my intention. Please advise and thx. DM
 
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Old 11-05-12, 08:56 PM
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It's just math. Add the current draws together. If the total is within the system's spec, then they will work. They don't have to match.
 
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