Trying to fix a DSC 1616 or simlar system, zone seems to be dead

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Old 03-07-13, 02:56 PM
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Trying to fix a DSC 1616 or simlar system, zone seems to be dead

After a telephone installer came and messed up our alarm system (he still hasn't come back), I've almost got it working except for one problem.

One motion sensor in "Zone 3" went on the fritz, and if I run a tester on the wires that are going to that sensor (back to the panel), there's no voltage coming off any of them, and the resistance is just showing as "1", ie open. The error from the LCD keypad shows that zone as being "open" as well. Is this a programming issue, or a blown fuse in the panel, or what? The rest of the system seems to be fine, ie all the other motion sensors along with the two keypads.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Old 03-07-13, 03:04 PM
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A motion needs 12v power as well as zone wires. If your keypads are working, then the voltage from Aux power is working (it's the same power source, with two different connectors). If you have 12v at the aux power terminal at the motherboard, but don't have 12v at the device, my guess would be that the wiring between the alarm control and the motion has been damaged.
 
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Old 03-07-13, 11:04 PM
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I think you're right about that -- I just have to sort out what wires the telephone installer might have pulled. Just so I get them straight here, on the motion sensor I see that there's 12V, 0V, tamper and alarm, with a couple of resistors going between those. Which would correspond to "Com" and "Z" from the box? Would I be able to place a resistor on those to at least see if the error light goes off on the panel? Edit: I'm guessing that would enable me to identify the correct com cables near the source, and work backwords from there. Edit 2:because the alarm installer had to use existing cable in a conduit between two houses, the color coding isn't standard, making it a bit harder to bug-shoot.
 

Last edited by stevetdent; 03-08-13 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 03-08-13, 03:42 AM
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COM would be 0V on sensor
Z(3) would be alarm on sensor

Did you try the resistor at the panel on COM and Z3 ?
 
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Old 03-08-13, 04:27 AM
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As soon as I find a ladder, I'll do that right away. Edit: access to the panel is really bad, because it's tucked up into into the ceiling. However, there's a patch box just below it, and so (I think) I have access to the lead coming out from that zone. Once I short the lead with a resistor, will any other action need to be taken (ie programming) before the orange warning light will go off? Because so far I'm not seeing anything. BTW, I can now see that it's a DSC (ADT) Power 864 box, if that matters.
 

Last edited by stevetdent; 03-08-13 at 04:57 AM.
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Old 03-08-13, 04:31 AM
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Actually, I've seen a similar model. 12v=+ power 0V=- power. There should be two terminals labled "Alarm" and one labeled "tamper" (some models have 2).

You want the pair of wires that are NOT on the 12v/0v terminals. It sounds like they might have actually installed the EOL resistor on the cover tamper terminal (something I only bother with on commercial installs).
 
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Old 03-08-13, 06:04 AM
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That doesn't seem to be doing anything (terminating the cable ends with a resistor), do I have to reset the alarm or perform some other action?
 
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Old 03-08-13, 07:24 AM
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OK, I was able to heave the panel down from the ceiling and terminate Z1 + com, which did indeed shut the bloody orange light off Now I just have to sort out the cables What would be helpful to know is, which wires are actually redundant with the keypad? That way, I can try to reduce the amount of extra cabling I'll need to perform. With the new telephone line, there's only four free wires running betwen the two houses to alarm that sensor and the keypad (maybe 5). If needed, I'll move the other phone back to the other house, but I'd like to keep both boxes here, if possible.
 
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Old 03-08-13, 11:05 AM
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Edit: So, I'm back to having five wires again. With that, I need to run a keypad and a motion sensor. Is that doable? If so, which wires go where? Sorry to keep peppering questions at everybody, but I truly have a thimbles-worth of knowledge about alarms. Once I figure this issue out though, I'm there, cause everything works great when it's next to the panel. Thanks! Edit 2: Looks like I need six wires, unless I'm mistaken: two for power (for both items), and two more for the keypad bus (yellow/green) and two more for the Z3/Com on the sensor. So this is the final question: Is there any way to cut that down to five? Thanks again for your infinite patience.
 

Last edited by stevetdent; 03-08-13 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 03-08-13, 02:26 PM
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The answer is a qualified "maybe".

The power can be shared with keypad and motion. The zone wire and keypad data wires have to be independent conductors. As it happens, the zone common and the power ground/common are electrically identical, as far as the alarm control is concerned.

So, yes, you can get it to work this way, but you have to keep your wire identies very clear as you make connections (and _never_ make/break keypad connections "hot").
 
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Old 03-09-13, 12:11 AM
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Ah, that's great news. So in other words, I'd better power down the alarm system (including disconnecting the battery) prior to connecting all that. I'll give that a whirl and report back.
 

Last edited by stevetdent; 03-09-13 at 12:45 AM.
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