DSC PC 1616 -- Wiring Advice

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Old 03-25-13, 06:48 PM
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DSC PC 1616 -- Wiring Advice

Hello Everyone,
I am removing my Napco security system that was installed 14 years ago, but went bad. So after doing a lot of research, I decided to go with DSC products and accessories. Now, as a learning experience, I thought I could easily look at the existing wiring and Napco diagram to reverse engineer and map to the DSC installation. However, there are some strange wiring choices that I believe may be incorrect from that original installation. I never tried to program or test anything from that Napco system, so I don't have a lot of basis for my opinion other than scratching my head on the wiring. So, this leaves me seeking some advice on getting the wiring correct so I can concentrate on learning and programming the new system without worry of fighting wiring issues. I am attaching a diagram of the components I have, and I would so greatly appreciate if someone would draw the lines to complete the diagram. Also, offer any alteration choices if you think it may be applicable at programming time.

I held off getting an EOL relay because I did not think it was required with the 4-wire smoke/heat detector. If it is required, or people just think it makes for a proper system, would you mind offering advice and adding to the diagram?

Thank You,
Michael
 
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Old 03-25-13, 09:05 PM
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The keypads wire to the keypad connections. For the glass breaks and smokes, + power goes to Aux +. On the glass breaks - power goes to Aux -. On the Smokes -power goes to PGM 2 (which will need to be programmed for smoke power reset. Smokes are NO contact devices, so everything should go from the alarm control to smoke 1 then from smoke 1 to smoke 2, with the EOL resistor across the contacts of the last smoke in the series. The relay is a _very_ good idea, otherwise you could be lulled into thinking you have smoke protection when the power to the devices has failed.

For the Glassbreaks, that diagram is for an _addressable_ device, it's not the standard acoustic glassbreak, so unless you also have the addressable device interface, that diagram is useless. A normal glassbreak wires just like a motion detector.

For standard NC contact circuits, the standard practice is to bring the pairs back to the head end and create the NC series circuit by connecting the pairs there. What may be confusing you is that it looks like the original installer used 4 conductor for everything. If you check the door contact wires, you will find that only two of the pairs are closed contacts and the other two aren't connected to anything (unless they did something unusual).
 
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Old 03-25-13, 09:55 PM
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Thanks a lot for the fast response. The addressable glassbreaks is my ordering error. I will order the standard glassbreaks I need, and an RM-2 while I'm at it.

I will take a pass at redrawing my diagram, now with the proper components, and show what wiring I think I now need.

(You are correct on the contacts that confused me. 2 of them just a (yellow/green) pair is used as I would have expected. However, for 1 of the contacts, all four wires were connected to the Napco control panel. I may have to get under the house and see if this is a red herring.)

Thanks!
Michael
 
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Old 03-26-13, 03:48 AM
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The most useful tool for alarm wiring is a multi-meter with a continuity function (all but the most minimal have this). Checking for open and closed circuits is a lot easier with one.
 
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Old 03-30-13, 02:12 PM
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Hi MrRonFL, or anyone else, I have completed my pass at what I think my wiring requirements are going to be, incorporating your advice. Would you mind taking a look and seeing if I am amiss on anything? After taking this stab, I came up with a few more questions:
(1) When I look at the diagram of the smoke (FSA-410BST) w/RM-2 relay, it indicates an EOLR resister there. (I've put a red arrow in my diagram.) Do I need this? If so, what ohm?
(2) Is it ok to put the RM-2 relay on the smoke that I will consider to be the last in the series? Also, can you confirm that I am also putting a 2200 Ohm resister for this one as well and my location of it in the diagram is correct?
(3) On of my doors actually had the rollerball on it. So I found that when the door is shut, the zone is closed in this case. Unlike the other 2 magnetic sensors I have. Can I assume that when I program the zones, I will be specifying which type of sensor I have at that location (an open or closed)?

This has been fun to learn and I will tinker with some other accessories later once I get the basics under my belt.

Thanks much for all the help.

Michael
 
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Old 03-30-13, 10:42 PM
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The EOL for a 4 wire smoke is the 5.6K that's used for the standard zone inputs, because 4 wire smokes have to connect to a standard zone input for the alarm activation. Even if you have the system programmed to not require EOL resistors, any zone programmed as a fire zone has to have a EOL resistor.

Standard door/window contacts are Normally Closed when the door/window is secure. There are exceptions, but they are _very_ uncommon...

The system is either set for NC contacts (if you disable the EOL requirement), or you can use NO with the EOL turned on and the resistor across the NO contact/switch.
 
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