safewatch pro 3000, no power to keypad, alarm works

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  #1  
Old 07-07-13, 05:26 PM
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safewatch pro 3000, no power to keypad, alarm works

Hi All,

Came home from vacation last night. There was no beeping when I entered... went to the keypad and it was dead, but then the alarm went off. I unplugged the transformer and the battery, replugged them and a minute later the alarm went off again. The keypad still didn't work - no lights, no messages and nothing happens when you press buttons.

ADT had called my home phone and left a message about a low battery signal the day after I left on vacation - I was gone for a week. The battery still reads at just under 13v and easily pushes the siren even with the transformer unplugged, but no power at the keypad/display. I have a spare ADT security director keypad that I tried plugging in but I get the same result. Any ideas on fixing this would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jon
 
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Old 07-07-13, 06:53 PM
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I would start with checking the voltage at the keypad [black/red >=12VDC].

You might want to put the system in test with the monitoring company [or disconnect the phone line] and then disconnect one leg of the siren wiring.

If the extra keypad is not addressed correctly then it won't be active on power up.
 
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Old 07-07-13, 07:36 PM
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Alright, put it in test and disconnected the siren. I've got 3.94vdc at the keypad - same coming from the board. This time I'm seeing OC on the display... also, it let me punch in my code with faint beeps but it didn't give me a disarmed beep and no other keypad beeps since.
 
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Old 07-07-13, 08:33 PM
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Do you have 16VAC at terminal 1 & 2? The system does have a low-voltage shutdown that kills everything once the battery hits a certain discharge level.

It really sounds like either the system is running on the wrong/missing AC voltage; or there is a dead short on the keypad/keypad wiring.
 
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Old 07-08-13, 07:41 AM
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I've got 18vac at terminals 1 & 2 and the back-up battery seems to show over 13vdc even after sitting mostly unplugged since Saturday. It didn't seem that there were any power outages while we were gone for the week but I can't be 100% certain of that. You may be on to something with the short.

Anything else I can try? I have a spare 6160 keypad. I'm not an alarm guy (obviously), but I was an ATM and copier tech in a former life, so I'm semi-capable.
 
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Old 07-08-13, 09:58 AM
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Meter all four wires at keypad.

{Assuming: black, red, white and green wires}

Blk/Red = 12V, Blk/Wht = 12V, Blk/Grn = 0V, Red/Grn = 12v, Red/Wht = 0V, wht/Grn = 0V.

Continuity between any two should not be close to 0 [disconnect wire at each end prior to metering for continuity].
 
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Old 07-08-13, 12:19 PM
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This is what I measured at the keypad (black, red, brown, blue):

Blk/Red = 1.3, Blk/Br = 13, Blk/Blu = 0, Red/Blu = 1.3, Red/Br = 12, Br/Blu = 13

I tested the completely disconnected wires for continuity and found nothing between them.
 
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Old 07-08-13, 05:51 PM
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Then:

1) I would suggest twisting all wires together at one end then, metering all pairs at the other end to see if you get continuity on all pairs.

2) While the wires are removed from the board I would also meter and compare the voltage readings of all combos of terminals 4-7 [where the keypad wire was landed] to the previous readings [if the same then board is probably bad, if it compares more like what I said then, wire is likely bad].


Edit: the blu/brn wires should be =12V.
 
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