Ademco P15 Won't Reset - Alarm sounds when system set

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Old 08-16-14, 09:00 AM
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Ademco P15 Won't Reset - Alarm sounds when system set

This is on a self monitored Ademco P15 system. It used to work fine but now it won't work at all.

The main problem is that someone in the family has frequently set off the alarm system, accidentally. For a few years now, entering the security code and then "1" would no longer turn off the siren when it goes off. Unplugging the transformer and disconnecting the battery would shut off the system. Then, after waiting ten minutes or so and waiting until the Alpha keypad said "Disarmed Ready to Arm" one could again use the system.

The alarm again went off when someone forgot that it was set. Now nothing will allow the system to function normally. After unplugging the transformer and disconnecting the battery and reconnecting everything, the keypad displays "Disarmed Ready to Arm." So far so good. But when we set the alarm system to "Stay" the siren goes off after about five seconds. The siren goes off even without walking in front of any motion detectors or opening any doors.

We have tried many things to fix this, but nothing works. Any ideas on how to fix this? Replace panel? Reset to factory defaults and reprogram? Or ???? Hoping that there is an easy fix.
 
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Old 08-16-14, 04:12 PM
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Is it displaying a zone associated with the alarm? If so, then there may be a wiring issue with a particular zone, especially if there are something like smoke detectors installed on the system.

If not, then the reasonable assumption is that the system board is failing, and is basically on borrowed time, so you should plan on swapping out the main board.
 
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Old 08-16-14, 10:02 PM
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There is no zone associated with the alarm that I know of. The Alpha 6160 keypad display panel goes black while the siren sounds. The other keypad (not Alpha) may show OL as a message (or maybe that is after we unplug the power and then reconnect it.) In any case, the system becomes completely unresponsive to any entries from either of the two keypads while the sirens are sounding.

As mentioned in the previous post, after unplugging the power and then plugging it back in, all seems OK, until one tries to arm the system. Then the alarm goes off - long before the programmed exit delay expires. Interestingly, the Chime setting works fine.
 
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Old 08-17-14, 12:24 AM
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Possibly a keypad, siren or powered device is shorting out.

Disconnect the siren then put the system in alarm, if nothing changed then disconnect one keypad and try again. If nothing changed, reconnect the keypad and disconnect the other keypad and rearm system.

If you have any wired devices that are powered (motions, smokes, glass breaks, et al) do the same with them -- one at a time.
 
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Old 08-17-14, 12:59 PM
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Good news. After disconnecting one of the keypads, the system is working. So, time for a new keypad.

Can anyone tell me whether one needs an RF keypad (such as an Alpha 6160RF) to be able to use a key fob to arm and disarm the system from outside the building? Since I'm replacing the keypad anyway, it would be nice to add the key fob arming option. Do I need anything else besides the new key pad and the fobs? Any particular models of fobs recommended? Also, how tough is the installation and set up to use the key fobs?
 
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Old 08-17-14, 03:51 PM
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If you are looking to add wireless to a system that doesn't already have it, then the 6160RF will do the trick nicely, since you get the programming keypad along with the wireless receiver.

Replacing the keypad is just a matter of setting it to the same address as the keypad you removed. All of the configuration settings are contained in the system main board. Adding wireless devices isn't difficult. Give the *56 programming instructions in the installer manual a good once over, and let us know what parts you have trouble following: (http://www.devconsecurity.com/pdf/Vista20p.pdf) (http://www.statcommunications.com/do...%20Rev%20A.pdf)
 
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Old 08-17-14, 08:45 PM
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Thanks for the help. A few more questions if possible.

This is a ten year old system, revision 3.1. I thought it was a 15P but the chip is marked WA20PCN 3.1. Is this in fact a 20P system??

Given the early revision (3.1), if I buy the 6160RF, is that all I need to buy, in addition to the fobs, to enable wireless entry? And is the 5834-4 fob a good choice for this system.
 
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Old 08-17-14, 09:07 PM
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That's even better. A vista 20p has a much larger zone capacity. It' will work just fine. It's even the same manual.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 08:10 AM
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There is still the chance that the wire was creating the issue -- might want to meter the wire for shorts before buying a new keypad. Unless running a new wire would not be a challenge.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 09:13 PM
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Thanks, that certainly is a possibility - that the wire sustained damage. Strange though that the system usually worked until set off into an alarm state, and then it would not reset properly. The new keypad is ordered, and I will run new wiring to it. Hoping we have no more issues.
 
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Old 08-28-14, 06:11 PM
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I installed the new 6160RF keypad today along with new wiring to the keypad. Since the last post a few weeks ago, the system had worked well with no issues with the old second keypad disconnected in the control panel.

Now with the new keypad installed, the system is back to its old ways again. About two seconds after one sets the system to STAY, the alarm goes off. The main keypad has address 16 and the second keypad had address 17. In an attempt to remedy the problem, I reprogrammed the panel for a keypad with address 18 and programmed the new keypad with address 18. (Address 17 no longer is in use.) The new keypad lights up, displays, and makes the right sounds.

Until I set the alarm and then the sirens go off.

I'm at a loss as to what is going on. Any ideas?
 
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Old 08-28-14, 08:35 PM
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The keypads dying when the siren sounds on a Vista is usually indicative of the back up battery being too weak to support the system (How old is your battery? They only last 3-7 years on average).

Try this: Take the siren loose from it's terminals and replace it with a 12v lamp. The lesser draw should let the system operate without killing the keypads so you can see what's being indicated as the source of the siren trigger.
 
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Old 08-28-14, 09:43 PM
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Thank you for the reply, Ron.

Today when the siren sounded, I watched the keypad and it did display various things. It listed one zone after another - possibly all the zones. Then it went black. The battery is less than one year old.

Since my last post, I tried several things, including disconnecting devices and trying it that way. The problem does seem to have something to do with the keypads - or with the panel programming for the keypads.

I now have three key pads. Any one of the three keypads will work fine on the system - at either of the two wired keypad locations - but only one at a time. When I hook up a second keypad, and arm the system, the system goes into alarm. Both the new keypad and the old keypads work, but not when more than one is connected.

Right now I have only the new 6160RF keypad connected and the system is working without having the alarm go off. (No keyfobs installed yet.) It is set to Address 18 - the manual says to set the Address to 16 if only one keypad is in use, but it seems to be working fine this way.

One other weird thing that I'm still wondering about. When the system goes into alarm, the only way to turn it off is to unplug the panel from the outlet and also disconnect the battery. Entering the homeowner code and "off" has no effect on the alarm. This has been the case for years, even when the system appeared to be working properly otherwise.

One other thing - the 6160RF is not talking - it dings and displays two lines of text but does not speak to us. I guess the 6160RF does not have a voice feature??
 

Last edited by toomanywires; 08-29-14 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 08-29-14, 03:45 AM
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The old keypads must be 6160/50 V models. They don't make a RF model keypad that also has the voice annunciations (I think...Honeywell has a _lot_ of keypad models).

We seem to have run through all of the commonsense things to check on this. You could try defaulting the thing and resetting everything from scratch. Other than that, it's looking increasingly like a motherboard that's giving up the ghost.
 
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