SafeWatch Pro 3000 - Hardwired door sensor faults

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Old 11-20-14, 08:16 AM
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SafeWatch Pro 3000 - Hardwired door sensor faults

Hi all,

I have a front door that has a hard wired sensor that faults all the time. We took out a window, which freed up a wireless window sensor - and I put that on the door - thinking I would disable the hard wired sensor and rename the wireless window sensor, but I can't figure out how to do either of those things from this manual! Can anyone provide codes for doing these things? I just find the manual impossible to follow, I'm too much of a Mac person I guess. Would love a great simple GUI on the computer for doing all this! Anyway, if anyone can help with codes, I'd appreciate it:

I noted from a previous poster:
To delete the zone, you will need to get into location *56. If it asks about using program tool, or set to confirm, select no. You will then have the option to select a zone. Enter (zone #), and hit star. Hit star again, and the zone configuration slot will appear. Enter 00 to disable the zone. It will then prompt you to delete the zone. Select yes. Then select 00 to exit location 56. If you are done, hit *99 to exit.
I was thinking I would disable the wired door (but not delete it?) this way, but renaming is another story... I would like to rename the wireless one to "front door" which is the current name of the wired zone.

Also, I guess I would need to make that new wireless front door zone have the enter/exit delay like the wired one likely does. How would i set that up? (Don't know if it would be simpler to re-direct the current front door wired zone to the wireless...?

Thanks in advance...
 
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Old 11-20-14, 10:31 AM
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I would look at the wiring in the door for the hardwired contact and try to repair it possibly but for what you want to do here it is fairly simple to program...

Enter programming by powering down the system (battery and AC transformer) and then within 60 seconds of reconnecting power (battery first and then AC transformer) go to the keypad and hold the * and # keys together.
You should see "Entering Programming" "Installer Code" or "20" depending on your keypad model

First thing after getting in programming, press # 20 and record the numbers for your installer code ignoring the leading 0's, one digit at a time (i.e. 01 = 1, 07 = 7, ect.) four digit number. Use this next time to enter programming if needed > code 800

After recording the installer code enter zone programming and proceed as follows:
* 56
*
01 * * 00 * 1 ( this turns off zone 1)
enter zone number for your wireless contact next, example = 15
15 * * 01 * * * * * * * 1 * *15 #085 6 #057 8 *
this sets the delay entry/exit and the label name to front door. I think I counted the *s correctly...
then exit zone programming:
00 *99 to exit programming
Your done and hopefully solves what you need.
 
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Old 11-20-14, 02:26 PM
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In order to do what you are trying to do, you need a 2-line alpha keypad (6160 or equivalent) in in order to access the menu mode programming to alter zone programming.

You need the manual. SW 3000 is a Vista 20p with minor modification.
http://site.aesecurity.com/Manuals/v...mmingguide.pdf

For the problem you are actually having, you may just need to adjust the door and/or replace the hardwired contact. It's just a switch.
 
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Old 12-13-14, 07:00 PM
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Also having a problem with door sensor fault

Purchased house 1 1/2 year ago. It has a wired SafeWatch Pro 3000 alarm system. The previous owners discontinued the monitored service at time of sale, along with their land-line telephone system.

We have been using the system as an internal alarm; it is not connected to a monitoring company. Of course, we get a "Communication Failure" message on the panel, but no big deal since we do not have a land-line telephone. The system sets the alarm just fine and for our purposes, it works great.

However, the panel started showing the message "FAULT 01," but the door with this sensor is closed. So, I purchased and installed a new sensor, thinking the sensor on the door may have gone bad. (The new sensor is the exact model number as the original sensor.) But this did not resolve the problem and the "FAULT 01" message is still being displayed.

Any advice on how to deal with the fault message? As an FYI, the wires connected to the sensor appear to be okay. Also, we've been doing a bypass to set the system with no problem.

Thanks in advance for your time and help.

Paul Mag
 
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Old 12-13-14, 08:16 PM
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strip and twist the wires [in the door frame ] together. if the fault goes away the problem is with the sensor.

wiring can 'appear' to be okay when it is not.
 
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Old 12-15-14, 10:43 AM
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Also having a problem with door sensor fault

I took the red and black wires from the sensor on the door frame and twisted the two wires together. After doing this the panel still shows a "FAULT 01" message.

The response to my post is suggests there is a problem with the wiring. Why, after no problems for the past 1 1/2 years, would all of a sudden I have a wiring problem? (I guarantee that I don't have rats in my attic chewing on wires.)

Thanks,
Paul Mag
 
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Old 12-15-14, 11:18 AM
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1. Did you try entering your code + off a couple of times to see if that cleared the trouble?

2. Could have a bad resistor but not very common.

3. Have you had anybody or done any work yourself in the attic where the wires are or drilled any holes near the door or where the wires run? Especially phone techs may have thought it was a phone line wire...

4. Are you sure zone 1 is a door? Most commonly on these systems if you have smoke detectors hardwired, they might be on zone 1 but there is no absolute. Just whoever installed it chose at their own discretion. You could place a 2k ohm resistor in the panel across zone 1 and see if it clears to eliminate any panel problem?
 
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Old 12-15-14, 04:08 PM
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It could be damage from the building framing shifting. Remember this stuff is usually 22 gauge wire; it doesn't take much; especially if the installer made the mistake of trying to drill the smallest possible hole to thread the wire through (over time the wood can swell and crush the cable).

Are you _sure_ this is the only opening on that zone? It's very common for the front door and garage entry door to share a zone.
 
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Old 12-16-14, 08:33 AM
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I entered 'code + off' repeatedly and fault 01 has not cleared. There has been no work or access to the attic in any recent time period. Zone 1 is definitely the door and all other window/door openings have different zone numbers.

I believe Zone 1 includes the door plus the Motion Detector. Since we have pets, we've always set the alarm via 'code + stay', which bypasses the motion sensor. So, today I tried setting by bypassing Zone 1, entered 'code + away', then I tried to activate the alarm via the motion sensor. No alarm sounded, so I surmise the Motion Detector is included in Zone 1. (Not sure if this info helps with problem solving.)

As I'm not an electrician or security system expert, I have not attempted to place a 2k ohm resistor in the panel across zone 1.
 
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Old 12-16-14, 08:38 AM
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Also, since not new construction I don't believe there is a construction settling issue, and in this area virtually no ground shifting. Have not inspected wiring in the attic (which is very tight space) to see if wire passes through drill holes and/or if any visible wiring problems.
 
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Old 12-16-14, 11:02 AM
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Your system could be programmed with an "auto stay" feature that would automatically bypass the motion if you arm and do not exit. If you try this again, after the exit delay expires, read the display and see if it shows stay or away.

If you physically twisted the wires at the door together and that is the only contact on that zone, then there is a wiring issue somewhere. Try turning the chime on (code + 9) and open each contact. If it's beeping ok, then write down the number displayed for each with them open one by one. Maybe this will help narrow it down?
 
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Old 12-16-14, 01:20 PM
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New construction or old is not an indicator as to whether a compromised cable can fail. I've seen this happen a decade after construction.

Usually, there are a couple of spare resistors left laying in the alarm enclosure. At this point the only thing left to do is determine if it's a failed zone input, or a failed cable; and the only way to do that is to close the zone input with a dummy resistor.
 
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Old 12-16-14, 05:34 PM
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I took the red and black wires from the sensor on the door frame and twisted the two wires together.

When you did this did you strip back the wiring so the bare metal was exposed and made contact?

-- just trying to clarify because non-electrical people may not grasp the necessity.

Swap the wiring for zones 1 and 2 and see if the problem follows [i.e. zone 1 is ready and zone 2 is faulted].
 
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Old 12-19-14, 08:22 PM
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Thanks for the assistance and attempts to help solve this problem. Re the question about twisting wires, yes I definitely twisted metal to metal.

However, if the Motion Detector is on the same zone, then should the motion detector be disconnected also so that the red and black wires to it can be connected?

For the suggestion of switching wires for zone 1 and zone 2, then testing ... how would I do this?

Re determining if it's a failed zone input, or a failed cable; you lost me when suggesting closing the zone input with a dummy resistor.
 
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Old 12-20-14, 06:05 AM
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Installer manual (a SW 3000 is a re-labeled Vista 20p): http://www.statcommunications.com/do...%20Rev%20A.pdf

Using a screwdriver, loosen the screws on terminal 7 & 8. Take those wires out. Bridge those terminals with a 2000 ohm resistor. Tighten the screws back down.

Does the zone close? If yes, then you have damaged wiring in your walls. If no, then your zone input is damaged and all you can do is replace the alarm control.

It is highly unlikely that the motion detector shares a zone with the entry/exit door. It would be contrary to normal alarm installation practice.
 
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Old 12-20-14, 08:01 AM
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Thanks MrRon.

I'll follow your instruction. Most likely sounds like re wiring the zone will be necessary.
 
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