Zone fault PC1864
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Zone fault PC1864
There is a trouble light which says zone fault. However when I press the * key it says "There are no zone faults". How do I trouble shoot this.
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What is correct procedure to power cycle a PC1864.
I presume it is likely a wireless zone - we have four wireless smoke sensors. Is there a way to test each via keypad to see if communicating normally?
I presume it is likely a wireless zone - we have four wireless smoke sensors. Is there a way to test each via keypad to see if communicating normally?
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To power cycle, remove AC power and disconnect battery. Reconnect in opposite order.
Upon restart depending on keypad, it will prompt you to set time "loss of clock" and you can press * and proceed setting time and date (24 hour format) or you may need to press *6, code, 1, and then enter time date (hh/mm/month/day/year) all 2 digit entries.
Simple way to test the wireless smokes, you can remove them from the base and should show a tamper trouble. This is easiest way to test their communication with the panel.
One I had your similar trouble with was a hardwired zone...
Upon restart depending on keypad, it will prompt you to set time "loss of clock" and you can press * and proceed setting time and date (24 hour format) or you may need to press *6, code, 1, and then enter time date (hh/mm/month/day/year) all 2 digit entries.
Simple way to test the wireless smokes, you can remove them from the base and should show a tamper trouble. This is easiest way to test their communication with the panel.
One I had your similar trouble with was a hardwired zone...
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To reconnect power, do you mean, hook up battery first and then plug back into AC.
Could I simply use the zone definitions and null out 00 the wireless zones ones time to see if trouble disappears.
How did you determine which hard wire zone wasat fault if system says "there are no zone faults".
Could I simply use the zone definitions and null out 00 the wireless zones ones time to see if trouble disappears.
How did you determine which hard wire zone wasat fault if system says "there are no zone faults".
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Correct on reconnecting power. You could disable the zones but doubtful if it clears since it shows no zone fault. I only knew because it did show the trouble on that particular zone and I fixed it but still had the issue you are having until power cycle.
The power cycle will not hurt anything at all other than lose the clock time so that would be my first thing to try and see what happens.
The power cycle will not hurt anything at all other than lose the clock time so that would be my first thing to try and see what happens.
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Wireless devices on RFK5501 keypad with PC1864
I am trying to figure out existing alarm in new house. I have installer code. It is a PC1864 with two RFK5501 keypads and three RFK5500 pads. There is no wireless module at panel so I presume the four wireless smokes (zones 21,22,23,24) are connected via one of the RFK5501 keypads. I have a persistent ZONE FAULT trouble alert that does not prevent arming and normal function. When I press the * button for more info, it says there are no zone faults. I am presuming this is likely a wireless smoke issue and want to trouble shoot that first...
1. How can I determine which RFK keypad is hosting those devices and access them? I am confused as to ho to enroll wireless from these wireless enabled keypads; can you host some from one and others from another?
2. What is the best way to test each wireless connectivity. I would presume if there was a serious issue there would be the appropriate zone fault. Can I go into the 002 zone programming and null out each wireless one at a time and see if the trouble resolves?
1. How can I determine which RFK keypad is hosting those devices and access them? I am confused as to ho to enroll wireless from these wireless enabled keypads; can you host some from one and others from another?
2. What is the best way to test each wireless connectivity. I would presume if there was a serious issue there would be the appropriate zone fault. Can I go into the 002 zone programming and null out each wireless one at a time and see if the trouble resolves?
#8
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Often, with a DSC, something like this is a memory glitch, so powering down will correct it.
Essentially, these things are very dumb computers, and often, a reboot will solve the problem.
Essentially, these things are very dumb computers, and often, a reboot will solve the problem.
#9
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Ahh, additional information helps; we've merged your threads:
With DSC panels you can only have multiple wireless receivers (which includes RF model keypads) if you _also_ install a PC5320 module.
DSC Multiple Wireless Receiver Module - PC5320
That's probably the source of your phantom wireless trouble.
With DSC panels you can only have multiple wireless receivers (which includes RF model keypads) if you _also_ install a PC5320 module.
DSC Multiple Wireless Receiver Module - PC5320
That's probably the source of your phantom wireless trouble.
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Only one wireless keypad
Just checked again. There is only one wireless enabled keypad (RFK5501) with unusual wiring as shown in image. Not sure if this represents auxilliary power or perhaps the other keypad (on opposite side of wall) is linke dinto this keypad instead of separate wiring to panel? Next image shows the keypad on other side of wall which is a PK5501, so not wireless enabled... Does the wiring make sense?
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Confused again...
See these pics. These are from two PK5500, both working fine... Why is there an extra wire to the P/Z spot on only one? I think I'll have to tone all the wires??
#12
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I thought it would be odd to have that many RF keypads without an interface board.
They are simply using the zone input on the keypad to add a zone without wiring back to the main alarm control. The wiring is correct.
They are simply using the zone input on the keypad to add a zone without wiring back to the main alarm control. The wiring is correct.
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Which images are you referring to where they used the keypad to wire an additional zone? The two 5100's?
Does all the extra wire in the first set of pics make sense.. Is that from other keypad??
Does all the extra wire in the first set of pics make sense.. Is that from other keypad??
#14
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If there's a pair of wires on the "p/z" terminal and "B"(common) then they are using the zone input on a given keypad. The one keypad with the doubled wires just means that they wired from that keypad to the next nearest one instead of running the wires back to the alarm control board.
(Here, the manual might help: http://www.gargoylesecurity.com/Down...STALLATION.pdf)
It also has a better version of the trouble table than the one in the user manual.
(Here, the manual might help: http://www.gargoylesecurity.com/Down...STALLATION.pdf)
It also has a better version of the trouble table than the one in the user manual.
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Sorry for my ignornance and I will review that manual in detail. In the picture below of the wireless enabled RFK5501. Am I correct in assuming that the extra set of wires goes to the keypad on wall behind and other back to the panel, plus there is a hard wired zone wired into this key pad as well, in addition to the four wireless smoke detectors. So the single set of wires going back to the panel controls 4 smokes, one zone, and two keypads?
I presume this is likely where the trouble arises from.... Is it OK to trouble shoot by deactivating each of the wireless zones (21-24 via zone control 002) one at a time, and seeing if trouble light goes out.
I presume this is likely where the trouble arises from.... Is it OK to trouble shoot by deactivating each of the wireless zones (21-24 via zone control 002) one at a time, and seeing if trouble light goes out.
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You are trying to make the wiring into something more complicated then it should be. What MrRon said is correct and what you stated last is correct. The 2 wires in each terminal go to another keypad and back to the main panel. The p/z terminal is a hardwired zone, probably one in a door near that keypad as well or they ran out of space possibly in the main control.
None the less, this has nothing to do with the wireless smokes other than the fact that this keypad contains the receiver. Wireless does not use wires...
There is no reason to assume that this would be the cause of the trouble since there is nothing indicating this from what you have said in the fault screen.
If you did a power cycle and then you still have the issue, then take further steps in maybe disabling those zones.
Another thing to try would be a module reset, enter programming and enter 902. Then exit back out and wait about 30 seconds. If you have changed any keypads or added any, then this would be necessary but still doesn't make sense to show zone fault.
If you want to disable zones 21-24, go to 204 and turn off 5,6,7,and 8. You can change the zone type to null in section 002 but it is much easier to disable them by turning them off in section 204. You could give it a try but I still am voting for the power cycle if you have not yet tried this step.
None the less, this has nothing to do with the wireless smokes other than the fact that this keypad contains the receiver. Wireless does not use wires...
There is no reason to assume that this would be the cause of the trouble since there is nothing indicating this from what you have said in the fault screen.
If you did a power cycle and then you still have the issue, then take further steps in maybe disabling those zones.
Another thing to try would be a module reset, enter programming and enter 902. Then exit back out and wait about 30 seconds. If you have changed any keypads or added any, then this would be necessary but still doesn't make sense to show zone fault.
If you want to disable zones 21-24, go to 204 and turn off 5,6,7,and 8. You can change the zone type to null in section 002 but it is much easier to disable them by turning them off in section 204. You could give it a try but I still am voting for the power cycle if you have not yet tried this step.
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Extra zone on keypad
I am confused but am going to review the manual tonight and the system. I undertstand that typically the zones are wired into the appropriate location on panel. In this case, howeverm with a keypad hooked to another keypad and also with an extra zone attached, where in the system do you define that the extra zone associated with this keypad is 'zone 3', for example. I know this is probably a silly question, but I think once I grasp this I can tackle adding more zones after I get the trouble sorted out..
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Congratulations on clearing the zone fault!!
http://tinymicros.com/mediawiki/imag...ion_Manual.pdf
This is the keypad manual and along with the programming manual you can learn about the options for wiring a zone or program output to the keypad.
These can become complex and used for a zone input or program output to another device or relay to do various things as you could probably imagine.
I am not an expert in keypad wired zones but I believe you might find the information in section 020 in the programming guide. Basically the p/z terminal is the positive side of the one and the B (designating black wire) is the ground... You can even wire a 4 wire device (motion for example with power needed) and connect the 12V+ to the "R" and 12V- to "B" along with the other 2 wires same as yours.
Far as the keypads wired together... if you think about anything wired together, say a phone line for example, it doesn't matter where the connection is made as long as they are all tied together. Your phone box outside connects to more than one phone jack in the house but who is to say you can only connect one phone to that jack? Plus in a splitter and you have 2 jacks...
It looks confusing to see multiple wires in a keypad but in theory they all connect back to the main panel board just the same.
Hope this is somewhat helpful!
If you are still planning to swap the board for whatever reason ( I really hope you don't need to) but I suggest taking several pictures of the wiring as it is before you disconnect anything and label everything so you can hopefully remember where it goes. Then I would remove the board from the clips and place the new one in before I removed any wires and replace them to the new board one wire at a time. If this is possible it will save you a headache. Even better leave the current system in place if that is an option.
http://tinymicros.com/mediawiki/imag...ion_Manual.pdf
This is the keypad manual and along with the programming manual you can learn about the options for wiring a zone or program output to the keypad.
These can become complex and used for a zone input or program output to another device or relay to do various things as you could probably imagine.
I am not an expert in keypad wired zones but I believe you might find the information in section 020 in the programming guide. Basically the p/z terminal is the positive side of the one and the B (designating black wire) is the ground... You can even wire a 4 wire device (motion for example with power needed) and connect the 12V+ to the "R" and 12V- to "B" along with the other 2 wires same as yours.
Far as the keypads wired together... if you think about anything wired together, say a phone line for example, it doesn't matter where the connection is made as long as they are all tied together. Your phone box outside connects to more than one phone jack in the house but who is to say you can only connect one phone to that jack? Plus in a splitter and you have 2 jacks...
It looks confusing to see multiple wires in a keypad but in theory they all connect back to the main panel board just the same.
Hope this is somewhat helpful!
If you are still planning to swap the board for whatever reason ( I really hope you don't need to) but I suggest taking several pictures of the wiring as it is before you disconnect anything and label everything so you can hopefully remember where it goes. Then I would remove the board from the clips and place the new one in before I removed any wires and replace them to the new board one wire at a time. If this is possible it will save you a headache. Even better leave the current system in place if that is an option.
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Zone fault cleared but now have a communication fault. However system called monitoring and checked in normally overnight so telephone working. This communication warning appeared after I did power cycle to clear previous fault and set alarm last night. Light came on about 8 minutes after alarm set. Should I power cycle again. No further info available for this trouble light.
#21
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That sounds like you may have simply had a telephone outage at a bad time. What is the actual trouble that is displayed?
If you simply send a test signal, to your monitoring center, that will make a communication trouble clear.
If you simply send a test signal, to your monitoring center, that will make a communication trouble clear.
#23
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I usually just call the monitoring service, put the account on test, and either press a panic key, or arm the thing and open a door or window. Disconnect the siren connection at the motherboard if you don't want to listen to it.
*6 4 will send a test, but only if the person that configured the system remembered to set a report code for the test.
*6 4 will send a test, but only if the person that configured the system remembered to set a report code for the test.