ADT Safewatch Pro 3000 with add ons

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  #1  
Old 07-21-15, 04:50 AM
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ADT Safewatch Pro 3000 with add ons

I am about to take the plunge and give up ADT. I have read this thread until my eyes were rolling back in my head, in order to understand what I have to do to use the system locally. I have also read other threads and manuals. We have a Vista 20p, Safewatch Pro 3000 system BUT it's part of a hybrid wired/wireless system. We already had ADT with components wired in our small house for a number of years, then signed up for Pulse 3 years ago. The contract is now over. Hence, we have some added wireless components and have a GSM box next to the existing panel because I requested a cell phone backup...which I then requested to make the primary call out number. I'm not even sure if they actually made or was able to make that change. I was afraid of would-be burglars cutting landline wires. We of course also have a hub attached to our wifi router for the Pulse system.

My questions:

1. What steps do I need to follow in order to use the system locally under this hybrid circumstance?

2. Should I call to make our landline the primary? Would that make the transition to local use easier? (of course without mentioning to them what I plan to do) I want the system to call to my cell phone should anything happen, just like one or two of the other posters in this thread- and use my landline as the secondary.

3. I'm assuming that I have to take the appropriate programming steps on the panel BEFORE I call to cancel? I don't want ADT to do any disabling through the phone lines.

I hope someone is still out there who can answer my questions. If I screw this up, my calm and mild-mannered husband might get annoyed, because I'm always "tinkering!" Thanks!
 
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Old 07-21-15, 08:22 AM
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First of all, note that anything related to adt pulse internet control, cameras, or otherwise is not going to work without that service. This includes the cell unit or gsm.

That being said, you can disconnect those from the panel and connect your home phone line or other 3rd party cell dialer and make the appropriate changes in programming.

I suggest disconnecting any land line or communicator prior to cancellation to prevent the rare chance that they take time to remotely lock out the panel, and then make your changes to programming after cancelling with them.
 
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Old 07-21-15, 08:26 AM
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Read the following Programming guide "cover to cover" and fully understand how to program various settings.

http://site.aesecurity.com/Manuals/v...mmingguide.pdf
 
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Old 07-21-15, 08:48 AM
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Thanks for the quick replies!

Yes, I fully realize that the Pulse features will no longer work once I cancel ADT. I don't care about that part of it. I just want to continue to hear, "Fault, front door," etc. when I'm home if someone were to come in, and I want to be able to arm and disarm the system, and have the siren sound if a door has been opened in the middle of the night- and I do know that if someone breaks in, it won't go to a call center. I also want the system to call my cell phone should we not be home and someone triggers the alarm. We have network cameras completely separate from ADT on a separate app that we could quickly log onto, to hopefully see what's going on.

jdh79: You said, "That being said, you can disconnect those from the panel and connect your home phone line or other 3rd party cell dialer and make the appropriate changes in programming. I suggest disconnecting any land line or communicator prior to cancellation to prevent the rare chance that they take time to remotely lock out the panel, and then make your changes to programming after cancelling with them."

By "disconnecting those from the panel," what are "those," and do you mean physically disconnecting something from the main wired panel, not just in programming? There is an empty phone jack in that box, so a phone line must be wired directly to the board. I realize that I need to disconnect their Pulse hub and I guess somehow disconnect the GSM box?

I'm lost. I try my best to understand this "stuff," but I'm no professional!! I think our landline is already connected to the system.
 
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Old 07-21-15, 09:47 AM
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"Those" meaning the gsm and pulse gateway hub...

There is a 2x3 inch module circuit board probably inside the main panel cabinet that you can simply unplug the black connector with the 4 colored wires coming out and that will disconnect the pulse hub. The gsm is probably wired to the same terminals as those 4 colored wires but that is also your keypad wires terminals 4,5,6,& 7. Just be sure to only disconnect the ones gpoing to the cell and hub... If your "gsm" has a big antenna on top then it probably is connected to terminals 23 & 24.

Once this is disconnected and power to both of those devices can be removed (gsm and hub) then you can plug a cord into that phone jack if its there or connect a phone line to terminals 23 & 24. See the programming manual.
 
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Old 07-21-15, 12:27 PM
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jdh: I am attaching pictures. I'm not sure I have the small module you're talking about in my main panel:

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Outside of the hub attached to our main router in a different part of the house, these are the only main components we have besides the keypads and a GE display that looks like a tablet.
 
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Old 07-21-15, 06:37 PM
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The cell dialer is an add on made by Uplink (https://www.uplink.com/our-products/...communicators/) and is easily removed since it's useless without the subscription service.

They probably located your internet connection near the router and ran the keybus connection to it.

You will need to get an actual list of the system components for anyone to be able to help you with what can or needs to be removed.

This is a not uncommon ADT compilation of add on parts to create the package they sold you. ADT doesn't _make_ alarm hardware, they just pay to put their logo on it and make minor firmware changes.

Start by getting the part/model numbers figured out. You have a real franken-system there...
 
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Old 07-21-15, 08:15 PM
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The cell unit there is actually a DSC model, GS3060 with an adt sim card. Basically it uses a cell network called connect24 but it useless to you without adt.

In any case, the wire that splits red black to 4 and 5 and then yellow blue or green (hard to see) on 23 and 24 goes to that cell unit. You can remove those wires and disconnect battery inside the cell unit.

My best guess is that twisted set of 4 colored wires going toward the bottom of the cabinet goes to the hub. The other twisted set goes to that smaller board on top which is a wireless receiver. There may be a small white plastic case with that hub module somewhere but its ok. Just unplug the hub from router and disconnect power and colored wires but dont touch them together. Cut each one of the colored wires individually if necessary. (At the hub, not the panel) You can leave the wires attached at the panel with no harm.


The good news is you have little to change in programming to connect your phone line to terminals 23 green and 24 red. For more info on that phone block, google rj31x line seizure.

In programming you need to clear field 41 and 94. *41* *94*
Enter any new 4 digit number in 43 and change your installer code in field 20 to something you will remember. I suggest making those the same number but it doesnt matter what they are.
*20 7890. *43. 7890 * (just for example)

Then enter your phone number in *160 1 555 888 4321*
And set for all alarms and troubles. *162 4 0 0
Exit. *99. See programming guide for reference


It is worth mentioning that you could cancel and not do anything to this and use it as a local alarm (noise maker)
The way it is now, it would be impossible for them to remotely lockout the panel. The worst that would happen without changing programming or connecting phone line is that the panel would show FC if it ever tried to send an alarm or trouble signal. But it wouldn't be calling anybody.
 

Last edited by jdh79; 07-21-15 at 09:42 PM.
  #9  
Old 07-22-15, 02:07 PM
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Thank you for all the information and advice! I have to get up the nerve to a). tinker with the panels and b). cancel ADT. At the very least, I want to take out the monitoring station phone numbers and the download phone number via programming when I decide to pull the trigger.

I DO want to use the alarm locally, and I do want it to call out to my cell phone if the alarm is tripped. I DON'T want to pay a fortune any more for monthly monitoring. At least that much I'm sure of.
 
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Old 07-23-15, 01:44 PM
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Okay, so....

I didn't call ADT yet to cancel, but I did the following:

1. Removed the Pulse hub
2. Found the little white box where the hub was connected onto a small circuit board (it was behind a shelf kind of hanging out of the wall...I remember the installer putting it there). I unplugged the hub from the board inside of that white box.
3. I reprogrammed the system through the Vista's keypad. I removed both station numbers, and the download number (wish I had remembered to make note of the numbers first....ugh..) I did all other clearing and entering that I was supposed to. I also put in our home number in field 160 and cell number in field 163, I think it was.

So far, the system works locally without a hitch. It no longer dials out to the monitoring station. It goes off as it should. HOWEVER, it is not dialing out to our numbers, either. If I pick up the landline phone while the alarm is going off, I still get a dial tone.

BUT...

I didn't touch the phone line in the main panel because I'm confused by this. I didn't take the battery out of the gsm box, either. If I remove the wires from 23 and 24 in the main panel that go to the cell unit (even though I can't see any wires whatsoever going to that unit), where do I get the landline wires from to put in 23 and 24? From the empty tan phone jack that hangs at the bottom of the box?

And if I completely disconnect the battery from the cell box, will my few wireless door sensors still work?

Also, how does one change the installer code? Is it *20* to clear and then enter the new number by entering *20 xxxx?

Thanks the help so far, I'm almost there. I just need the last few pieces of the puzzle.
 
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Old 07-23-15, 08:26 PM
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My eyes are not the best in the world, but it looks like there are no phone lines connected to the main panel in the above picture? This would be the Vista 20p panel (Safewatch Pro).

Anyway I do see a phone jack in that box. Basically you should have an RJ31x phone jack and this is a special phone jack which allows the alarm panel to seize the phone lines. And the connections for this should be diagramed on the inside door panel.

Search google.com for additional information on this by searching for the following words...

rj31x alarm wiring

You can also click on google.com images after searching for those words and there will be all sorts of wiring diagrams.

And this would be in the Vista 20P installation instructions...
http://www.statcommunications.com/do...%20Rev%20A.pdf
 
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Old 07-23-15, 08:45 PM
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The wires run behind the panel box and come in behind the cell unit. The wires at 23 & 24 also have a red and black wire in that 4 conductor white shielded wire that run to 4 & 5 to provide power to the cell. Trace the wire down from the terminals and you will see it.

Disconnecting the cell unit and battery has no effect on your wireless sensors. Common misconception. The cell "wireless" is for communication from the alarm to central station. Your wireless sensors communicate to the panel via an RF receiver, located at top of cabinet with two white antenna sticking out the top of the box.

The phone jack inside the panel would be the place to start to get your land line connection. Again, google the wiring diagram for RJ31X.

If you have changed phone service since your alarm was wired, it may or not have dial tone in that jack.

To set the installer code just do *20 and then new four digit code.
*20* does nothing.

You're on the right track! Just a little bit more connecting the phone line may be your hardest part seems like. Try not to over think it. Just follow the diagram. Good luck!!
 
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Old 07-24-15, 03:07 AM
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Your system was setup to use internet and the GSM communicator. Looking at your photo, there are no phone lines connected to the RJ-31x phone jack laying in the bottom of the battery enclosure. Check and see if you have dial tone at that jack. If you do, you need the phone cable that goes with that jack to connect to your telephone connections.
 
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Old 07-24-15, 04:27 AM
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Okay guys....Please continue to bear with me...

Bill190
"My eyes are not the best in the world, but it looks like there are no phone lines connected to the main panel in the above picture? This would be the Vista 20p panel (Safewatch Pro).

Anyway I do see a phone jack in that box. Basically you should have an RJ31x phone jack and this is a special phone jack which allows the alarm panel to seize the phone lines. And the connections for this should be diagramed on the inside door panel."


Yes, that phone jack is empty. I don't know the difference between an RJ31x phone jack and an ordinary phone jack, but it sure looks like every other one I've ever seen.

jdh79
"The wires run behind the panel box and come in behind the cell unit."

I craned my neck to see behind it, and there is in fact, one white wire that connects that cell box.

"Your wireless sensors communicate to the panel via an RF receiver, located at top of cabinet with two white antenna sticking out the top of the box."

I thought those two thin white wires helped to hang the box from the ceiling. LOL

"If you have changed phone service since your alarm was wired, it may or not have dial tone in that jack."

We had changed carriers quite a few years ago, but I just checked with an old corded phone, and we still have dial tone coming from that jack. I'm assuming that's a very good thing!!

MrRonFL
"Your system was setup to use internet and the GSM communicator. Looking at your photo, there are no phone lines connected to the RJ-31x phone jack laying in the bottom of the battery enclosure. Check and see if you have dial tone at that jack. If you do, you need the phone cable that goes with that jack to connect to your telephone connections."


So, yes. I do have dial tone there!

This is what will happen next:

- I will go ahead and remove the wires from 23 & 24 and 4 & 5 from the circuit board that go to the cell box. (Is this correct?)
- I will disconnect the battery from the cell box
- Next I'll stare at the empty, but working, phone jack in the main panel and the now-empty slots 4 & 5 and 23 & 24.
- I'll ask myself, "I guess this is an RJ-31x jack?" (I've now opened it up and it does have 8 potential connection spots, only 4 of which are used, so I guess it is an RJ-31x)!
- I'll hold that jack, look at the wiring diagram, and look back at Mr. Ron's sentence: "you need the phone cable that goes with that jack to connect to your telephone connections."
- Then I'll ask myself, "What kind of cable?"
- Once I go through whatever I have to in order to have the cable in my hand, I'll ask myself, "Now what do I do with it?" I know I have to connect it to something. "Do I split one end to go onto 4 & 5 and 23 & 24?" "Does the other end just plug into the jack?"
- Then I'll look at a diagram, become frustrated because I probably still won't understand it, curse a little, hold back some tears, slam the damn box shut, and storm back upstairs.

Any specific instructions going forward would reduce or eliminate the above scene.
 

Last edited by LadyTinker; 07-24-15 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 07-24-15, 05:43 AM
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What you need is the cord that goes with the jack (it's made a specific way...)

RJ31X Jack & Cord

In a pinch, you could directly connect the phone wires to the alarm's terminals, but it's not the best choice.
 
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Old 07-24-15, 06:02 AM
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DO NOT CONNECT PHONE LINES TO 4 & 5!!

Sorry for misleading. The cell power comes from 4 & 5. One red and one black wire. Once removed you should still have several wires at these terminals.

The phone line incoming (dial tone) connects to 23 & 24. Then 21 & 22 second pair connects back to home phone.

Please please lookup "RJ31X jack and cord" it will make sense once you read about it.
 
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Old 07-24-15, 07:56 AM
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I think I understand it now! I found this...written for novices like me! It has a step by step little presentation.

Home alarms RJ31X Phone Connection

Apparently, our remaining semi-local Radio Shacks do not carry the RJ-31x cables- only the RJ11's. Any idea what kind of local place would carry them?
 
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Old 07-24-15, 08:29 AM
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Any local alarm company should have them. Best to get the correct cable, then the wire colors will match up with the diagram on the inside of your alarm panel door.

Radio Shack would not know what an RJ31X is!

4 wires should be used for this connection.
 
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Old 07-24-15, 05:35 PM
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If nothing else, ebay sells the jack and cord together for about $3...

The cord is basically an ethernet plug (rj45) with the other end wires separated and u shaped connectors on each. You could essentially make your own with an ethernet wire, cut in half and strip and connect the correct wires. I could tell you the colors but I'd have to look at it for a minute.

The standard cord would connect green and red to 23 and 24 then the grey and brown to 21 and 22. The other 4 wires in the cord are not used.
 

Last edited by jdh79; 07-24-15 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 07-26-15, 06:42 AM
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I could not get the cable locally, so I ordered it from eBay. The cell box is completely disconnected now, and the system works locally without a hitch.

One problem: The panel is not allowing me to change the installer code. I am using my existing installer code + 8-0-0 *20. I enter the new 4 digit code, it gives me a nice beep to accept the code, I hit *99 to exit, then try to get back in with the new code. Nothing happens. I tried this process multiple times with the same results. To get into programming again, I use the preexisting installer code (not the one that I made up) and it goes into programming. Could ADT have locked out the ability to change the code?

Also, I will be ordering another keychain remote. I see 2 different styles for the same model number (5834-4). One remote shows the icons for alarm away, alarm stay, off, and an asterisk. This is the type we currently have two of. The other style shows one lock icon, one unlock icon, an alarm stay icon, and an asterisk. Is there any program difference in these two remotes? Also, what is the best way to program one of these remotes?
 

Last edited by LadyTinker; 07-26-15 at 06:57 AM.
  #21  
Old 07-26-15, 07:27 AM
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It may be that the installer code is unable to be changed on your system. Just make sure you are waiting between entering programming and then *20 ----.

The remotes are the same. Program *56 menu and start with zone 57 for your panic zone (if used) and follow template 2 for the rest on page 23.
 
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Old 07-26-15, 08:27 AM
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I was trying to use the same code for the new installer code as our master user code. It didn't like that at all! I have successfully changed it now. However, it also added my new installer code as another arm/disarm code...unless that's typical.
 
  #23  
Old 07-26-15, 08:51 AM
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You can use the installer code to arm/disarm, but not with a remote phone add-on gizmo called "VIP" (Which I don't think you have).
 
  #24  
Old 07-26-15, 09:10 AM
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The installer code can arm the system. It can only disarm if the installer code was the code used to arm. That's normal for a Vista/Vista Clone.

It's primarily that way as a convenience for service techs.
 
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Old 07-28-15, 05:44 AM
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While waiting to receive my Rj31x cable, I finally called ADT to cancel our monthly monitoring services.

Imagine my surprise when the CSR told me that after the official cancellation date, my system will most likely "power down" and will be unusable! Since I have reprogrammed the system by removing the station monitoring and 'download' numbers, fully disconnected the cell box, as well as changing the installer code, is there any way that they can still do this?

I would hate to think that all the time I've spent on this project will be for naught.
 
  #26  
Old 07-28-15, 06:31 AM
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Nope, they have no way to access your system to send a shut down command.
 
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Old 07-28-15, 11:13 AM
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Okay...good, thanks. Just received 31x cable in mail. Now comes the real test.

Update- All wired up....I'm not expecting miracles here...about to try it...

It worked! Delay is set to "0" but it took about 40 seconds for the phone to call out to the first listed phone number, and it stopped ringing after a few seconds. Is there any way to change any of that?
 

Last edited by LadyTinker; 07-28-15 at 12:29 PM.
  #28  
Old 07-28-15, 12:47 PM
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*50 0 makes dialer delay 0. May be unable to change with adt default but no matter, it takes some time for that dialer to connect and call as well.

Once actual alarm starts then should be less than 10 seconds if delay is set to 0
 
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Old 07-30-15, 03:50 AM
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Guess it's time to thank everyone for their input in my alarm journey! Without this forum and those who contributed, I never would have been able to accomplish any of it!

I'm still wondering why when the panel calls out to my cell phone that it only rings for a few seconds and then stops (while the alarm is still actively going off). Is it supposed to work that way?

I will be receiving a remote key fob in the next week or so, and may need help with its programming, despite all of the instructions that I'm finding across the web! I already have two that were programmed by ADT. Now I have to see if I can figure out how to add a third.
 
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Old 07-30-15, 04:05 AM
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Any alarm system is made to call the monitoring station when there is an alarm. All it takes is one call to send a signal and then the monitoring station will respond as necessary. It doesnt call multiple times to report the same thing.

You wouldnt want the Dr's office to call you 30 times to remind you of your appointment when all you need is once... silly example but principle same.
 
  #31  
Old 07-30-15, 07:13 AM
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Csid

I have an ADT Pro3000 panel that I have converted to a 20P by replacing the firmware chip. Does anyone know the ADT CSID # so that I can connect with my Compass Software or at least the default code that is in the PRO3000?
 
  #32  
Old 07-30-15, 07:54 AM
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The following is a long version programming manual. I suggest you print that out and enter your programming in it in pencil.

http://www.statcommunications.com/do...%20Rev%20C.pdf

Then each key fob takes up several zones... You need to know what zones are currently being used! Maybe ADT will give you a printout of your programming? Or at least a printout of your zone programming?

Then see Adobe reader page 18 in the above manual - that is detailed zone programming information for *56. And see Adobe reader page 36 which is a worksheet to enter your *56 zone programming.

On Adobe reader page 18 are key fob programming templates - gives you an idea how each button is programmed - each button takes up one zone. Programming for your existing key fobs might start at zone 49, but not necessarily!
 
  #33  
Old 07-30-15, 08:08 AM
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The standard version of Compass will not connect to an ADT branded panel. They alter the firmware and only their specific version of Compass will work (and they don't share...).

Vista 20p panels have a group of zones dedicated to keyfobs, so your best bet is to look at the current settings for your keyfobs using *56 and simply duplicate it on the next group of zones.
 
  #34  
Old 07-30-15, 08:35 AM
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And be DARN sure you know what you are doing before entering *56 mode!

Very easy to alter your existing programming and mess it up!

Might want to search for videos which show someone programming or just viewing the information.

Here is a start to learning this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jm2dfKDi_ig
 
  #35  
Old 08-03-15, 08:42 AM
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Okay...next and final hurdle...

Just received and want to program a 3rd remote key fob (5834-4). Our first 2 of the same type were programmed by ADT. Of course being a complete novice, the more I read and watch about how to do this myself, the more I question my ability to do this correctly.

My biggest problem is finding out in what zones the first 2 were programmed. There is definitely no way that I could get this information from ADT, and it is not written on my original paperwork or manual from them.

Is it possible to find out the zones that were used for the other key fobs by perhaps using # on the keypad? Or, if I already have two working key fobs, and on the Vista 20p (Safewatch Pro 3000), they are programmed using zones 49-64 (4 zones for each), I could ASSUME that I would use 57-60 for a 3rd key fob... but I really don't want to assume anything because that may not be correct.

How should I proceed?
 
  #36  
Old 08-03-15, 10:01 AM
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Yes, if you look at the worksheet in the programming manual: zones 49 - 64 are reserved for programming keyfobs.

You have to use a 6160 keypad and *56 menu mode to view the zone configurations of the existing programmed devices and to add new ones

http://www.nationwidesecuritycorp.co...all-Manual.pdf
 
  #37  
Old 08-03-15, 12:29 PM
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Ut oh. Installer code + 800 + #56 = "Not used" EE

Now what?
 
  #38  
Old 08-03-15, 04:10 PM
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Its * 56 not # 56

The panel doesnt recognize the #56 command because it cant show all the info stored there.

For entering information always use * key
 
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Old 08-03-15, 04:49 PM
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Okay, thanks. I thought I would be able to see what was already stored by using #56. Now I have no way of knowing what's already in there, which is going to make this remote impossible to program.
 
  #40  
Old 08-03-15, 05:48 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gainesville, FL, USA
Posts: 16,165
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You can view the zone information with *56. It's menu mode programming. You just use the * key to step through the zone info without changing anything.

Read the *56 instructions in the manual. We can help you with any concepts that you have trouble following...
 
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