Changing from my brinks bhs 400a

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  #1  
Old 09-11-15, 10:10 AM
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Question Changing from my brinks bhs 400a

Hello members,

I am new to this forum and this is my first posting.

I have a brinks bhs 400a security system which I inherited when I bought my house. I don't want to pay the $40+ fees from ADT to use the system. Luckily for me, the previous owner gave me the master code and I am using the system internally.

However, the system keeps throwing CP code (communication problem) because I disconnected the phone line. I clear the error everyday and I just decided to live with it. But now, the error comes multiple times per day and it is annoying when it beeps around 3AM. I know there is no way to reprogram the system unless someone from ADT does.. So I think I want to change the system (panel and keypad) to another and I want your suggestions for a system that is not expensive and has the programming available and fairly easy to do. My brinks bhs 400a has 8 wired zones and 2 wireless zones added recently using a receiver hooked to the panel board.

Your suggestions are much appreciated.
 
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Old 09-11-15, 01:38 PM
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The wireless zones are the problem, as they are usually proprietary. Check the brand and model of the transmitters and receiver. I know that some of the wireless used by Brinks/Broadcom/ADT are essentially standard Honeywell 5600 series devices.

Otherwise, the basic Vista 20p is likely to be your best choice for a swap out. At most you would have to either replace the siren, or install a siren driver card (BHS panels usually used speakers).
 
  #3  
Old 09-14-15, 06:00 AM
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Thank you. I just ordered the Vista 20p. Hope it won't be too complicated to swap.
 
  #4  
Old 09-14-15, 06:54 AM
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One question.. My brink panel does not have any resistors installed. Do I need/must to install resistors when I swap my brink panel with the vista 20p panel?
 
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Old 09-14-15, 07:23 AM
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Brink to honeywell

It's not complicate at all to swap, you may need a Translator RE224GH. do you have already one?
 
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Old 09-14-15, 07:31 AM
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Brink to honeywell

The Resolution RE224GH GE to Honeywell Wireless Takeover Translator is a unique device that listens for GE wireless sensors and re-transmits their status to a Honeywell wireless system allowing easy installation of new Honeywell panels in to an existing GE environment without having to replace the sensors. It uses dual antennas for RF diversity, reliability and long range performance and is fully supervised
 
  #7  
Old 09-14-15, 08:41 AM
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Thank you for the tip.. I will check my wireless sensors (I have only two) to see what model they are.. someone said they are likely Honeywell brands.. If they are not, I will look into the translator you recommended.
 
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Old 09-14-15, 10:39 AM
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Michael Broza, do you have information that Learn-Mode GE sensor/transmitters were used with the Brinks 400A panels? I've only come across a few Brinks panels because and none of them had wireless added at all. The 400A model number suggests to me that it's an older model, so if I had to bet, I'd bet on MrRonFL's guess of "Honeywell" 5600-series devices.

Only, in the 5600-series era, the brand name was Ademco, which was bought much later by Honeywell. When I refer to Honeywell wireless products, I generally call them Honeywell/Ademco because at the time Honeywell acquired Ademco, Honeywell had its own proprietary wireless equipment (which is now nearly extinct, but there are still a few systems out there with purely Honeywell-not-Ademco equipment. There were also earlier Honeywell systems installed that used Linear wireless equipment--I kept one of those old systems operational for one of my personal customers until a few years ago. There are probably others still in service.)

Ruijay, if you have Ademco 5600 (or 5700)-series transmitters, OR GE or any other brand from that era (prior to mid-90's), then you will have to update to the current Honeywell/Ademco wireless equipment by getting a 5800-series receiver and sensor/transmitters.

Resolution Products has no models that translate from older-generation equipment (prior to mid-90's) to newer-generation equipment.

If you can't find brand names or model numbers, one quick way to tell if your wireless devices are older generation Ademco is to look at the battery: If they're Ademco 5600 or 5700-series transmitters, they'll have 9V batteries, and they're incompatible with any contemporary equipment.

If they have 1/2AA batteries, they might be ITI/GE, either the older ITI SX-V generation or the contemporary GE Learn-Mode generation. We'd need more info to tell which, either a model number or a good picture of the device circuit board.

Best of all would be a model number of the RF receiver at the panel, assuming Brinks didn't stick their own model number on it.
 
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Old 09-14-15, 12:34 PM
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I have a DX (By Linear) Model DXR-701 1-Channel Receiver.
 
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Old 09-14-15, 02:03 PM
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Ah, they used an after market wireless system. That's good, since that Linear receiver simply connects it's output into a hardwired zone input on the host system. You probably had a hardwired zone loop that had bad wire in the walls, and that was the workaround/repair. At that point you would be treating the Linear unit as if it were a hardwired zone loop.
 
  #11  
Old 09-15-15, 05:28 AM
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That is correct. The Linear receiver is hard wired to a zone. ADT installed it as an addition when the sunroom was built in and there is no way they could hard wired it since there is no attic space.
 
  #12  
Old 09-17-15, 01:02 PM
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So I got my vista 20p panel along with the 6160 keypad.
How do I go by swapping the panels? I mean the easiest & simplest way? Do I blindly swap one wire a time then program the zones thru the keypad? I don't have the diagram of the brink panel so not sure what all my wires are coming from. Is better to run few tests prior to the sway by disconnecting one sensor at a time, doing the chime test, and labeling the wires?
 
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Old 09-17-15, 01:21 PM
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If the Brinks panel is functional (if annoying), and your zones are intact; open one opening at a time, and make not of which zone it corresponds to. That will let you build your zone list. Then you have to decide what zone is to be used for which function. Only once you have that part figured out, do you do you kill the brinks panel and do the swap.
 
  #14  
Old 09-28-15, 05:44 AM
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Thank you MrRon.

I did exactly what you suggested and yesterday I finally swapped the panels, transformers and keypads. I also put in the resistors in all the connections as suggested in the manual.

The old transformer had 3 conductors wire: Red, Black, and Green. The Vista 20p has only two: Black and Red. So I guessed and ditched the Green.

I powered up the system and got FIRE ALARM. I don't even have the smoke detectors hooked up yet.I tried to do factory reset using *97 but I was unsuccessful.

I found this post from 2013 so I think I will give it a try
"I understand that this is the "right" way to do it. However there is an easier way for the end user DIY person. Terminals 8,9 are designed for 2 wire detectors and when the 2 wire detector is tripped these terminals will drop power after a code + off sequence is entered. So now moving ahead if you have a four wire detector you can actually take the power wires and land them on terminals 8,9 and then land your circuit wires on any available zone. Keep in mind that both pair will need to be supervised with a resistor (2000 ohm) and zone one (terminals 8,9) will still need to programmed as a 09 fire zone. You can take the report code out if you like but will never have an alarm condition on this zone. So now when the 4 wire smoke detector is tripped you in essence are resetting the power by entering your code+off via zone 1."
 
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Old 09-28-15, 06:47 AM
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The easy way, when you first power up a system, and still need to configure the zones is to just dummy load the zone inputs with the resistors, do your programming, _then_ make the field wiring connections. That way you aren't trying to figure out if your wiring, or your programming is the source of a problem.

For your last paragraph, if you are trying to configure 4 wire smokes, that's really not the right way to go about it. For one thing, it wastes a perfectly good zone input.
 
  #16  
Old 09-28-15, 09:03 AM
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What would you do if you were in my situation = 2 wired smoke detectors both with 4 conductors. Replace both 4 wires smoke detectors with 2 wire ones? or purchase a relay?

I was going to put the blacks and reds on pin 8 and 9, and then yellow and greens on 10 and 11. I know I would be wasting one zone but I thought at least I could use both smoke detectors. They are not too far away from each others so I think I could easily tell which one is sending an alarm when that happens?
 
  #17  
Old 09-28-15, 09:20 AM
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If they were properly wired on the original Brinks system, they would already have a end of line relay. On the Vista 20p, you would power the smokes using the output connector 17. See figure 7 on page 2-7 of the installer manual: http://www.nationwidesecuritycorp.co...all-Manual.pdf.
 
  #18  
Old 09-28-15, 11:33 AM
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Thank you.. Please forgive my ignorance.. is Connector 17 the same thing as Pin 17? Or is the 8 PIN connector something I need to acquire because it's not included in the panel?
 

Last edited by ruijay; 09-28-15 at 12:03 PM.
  #19  
Old 09-28-15, 03:02 PM
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Yes, it's one of those connector pins at the top of the board. That's odd that you don't have the connector, because normally the connector for that ships with a new Vista 20p panel.
 
  #20  
Old 09-29-15, 11:10 AM
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Do you have by any chance an image of the connector?

I am attaching a picture of mine in case I am missing it.
Name:  vista20p.jpg
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  #21  
Old 09-29-15, 02:35 PM
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It's a little beige or black plastic connector with 7 multi colored wires. It would have been in with the other hardware that came in the package with the alarm system and enclosure.
 
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Old 09-30-15, 08:57 AM
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Ok thank you for your clarification. I did not receive it with the package and this was listed brand new from a seller on ebay. I am contacting him now..

Do you by any chance have a photo of the connector just in case the seller asks for it petty please?
 
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Old 09-30-15, 01:16 PM
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You know, I can't find an actual photo of the darned thing anywhere on the web.
Here's a link to a line drawing: http://pdfasset.owneriq.net/f/ca/fca...6e8f9-bg12.png

There are two versions, one only has 4 connections, the other has 7. Either one will work.
 
  #24  
Old 10-01-15, 06:17 AM
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I believe the part number is 4120TR for that trigger cable.
 
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Old 10-01-15, 06:51 AM
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ohhh now it makes more sense to me. I see the part being sold with this seller =
Ademco Vista 20P Board Only w Accessories Ver 10 23 Honeywell Fast Shipping | eBay

But from the seller I bought from, he did not provide it =
Ademco Vista 20P Board Only w Accessories Ver 10 23 Honeywell Fast Shipping | eBay
 
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Old 10-01-15, 07:01 AM
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I think Honeywell used to include it with the system but they don't anymore.
 
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Old 10-01-15, 07:31 AM
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I think you are right.. I am going to see if the seller is willing to accept a return, then I probably buy from the other seller who includes the part with the panel
 
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Old 10-01-15, 07:57 AM
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Might be easier to just buy the part separately.
 
  #29  
Old 10-01-15, 11:29 AM
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You are probably right Sterling D.

However.. From my old Brinks installation, I do see they have two boxes on top of the panel box. One is a wireless receiver for a door sensor and glass break on my patio..The receiver is BHS-3250. Would that be compatible with the vista 20p?

And the other box is DX (By Linear) Model DXR-701 1-Channel Receiver.. Wonder if ADT used this to power on the two smoke detectors??

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My smoke detector wiring (model is FSA-410BST)=
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Note there have a resistor installed on the Yellow and Green conductor.. It's hidden in this picture
 
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Old 10-01-15, 01:53 PM
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The BHS-3250 is the proprietary Brinks receiver. The transmitters should be generic Honeywell 5800 series devices, but the receiver only communicates with the Brinks BHS security panels.

The Linear unit is a an aftermarket receiver. It uses a standard zone input connected to the receiver. The resistor is the zone supervision resistor from the Brinks panel. You would have to swap it to the one for the Vista Panel.

Hard to tell what each was being used for. Very often the Linear units were used for simple things like portable panic buttons. If your window transmitters ran through the BHS-3250, you must replace it with a standard Honeywell receiver (depending on the age, you may have to replace the existing transmitters, as well...)
 
  #31  
Old 10-01-15, 05:13 PM
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When you say the transmitters you mean the wireless sensors?

I do know the previous brinks user had a portable panic button. So I guess one of the linear receiver was used for that purpose. I will work on getting a New wireless receiver for my Vista panel. Or alternatively can I get an RF keypad?
 
  #32  
Old 10-01-15, 05:24 PM
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You could get a 6160RF keypad or you could get one of the 5881EN receivers. The 5881ENL does 8 zones, the 5881ENM does up to 16 zones and the 5881ENH does up to 40 on a VISTA-20P.
 
  #33  
Old 10-01-15, 08:04 PM
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Ordered the 6160RF and the 4120TR from ebay.
Thank you for your help and suggestions
 
  #34  
Old 10-02-15, 01:11 PM
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I looked at my wired 2 Honeywell FG1615 Glass Break Detectors. They come in four conductor wires. How do I connect these to vista 20p? Does the black and red wire goes to the AUX of the panel?
 
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Old 10-02-15, 03:31 PM
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Typically black would go to Aux -, red would go to Aux + and the two zone wires (yellow and green?) would go to the zone terminals.
 
  #36  
Old 10-06-15, 07:04 AM
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I made some good progress on my DYI installation and I would not be able to do any of it without you guys help.
Now I have all my doors, Windows, and 4 glass breaks connected. I tested the doors and Windows and I am stuck on the glass breaks. I programmed them as perimeter. Is that correct? I spent so much already and I find the glass break tester to be overpriced. I wiggled my keys around the glass breaks and I see a green light flashing quickly but no alarm is thrown. Thoughts? I am thinking of trying an app called glass break as it generates a sound just like glass break. Anybody tried something similar?
 
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Old 10-06-15, 07:27 AM
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If they are Honeywell GBDs, the only real way to test them is the FG-701 tester.
 
  #38  
Old 10-06-15, 08:21 AM
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They are FG1615. I have actually four of them and two per zone.
 
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Old 10-06-15, 08:31 AM
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Some people have had success with the glassbreak sound app, takes a phone with good clear speakers, though. My fallback is a handful of loose coins in a soda can. You have to be fairly close (less than 3 feet) but it can trip them.

Read through the instructions, these things usually have a test mode by moving a jumper, or tripping a tamper switch.
 
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Old 10-06-15, 08:35 AM
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Actually I found what you are talking about =

http://library.ademconet.com/MWT/fs2/7/4841.pdf

before doing that, I will try the glass sound app and the soda can with coins.. When I tried to remove the cover on one detector, I ended up pulling the whole unit from the ceiling... I don't want to do that again.

Do you program them as a perimeter?
 
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