DSC PC3000 Siren not working - any help is appreciated

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Old 09-17-15, 06:22 PM
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DSC PC3000 Siren not working - any help is appreciated

Today I was installing a TG1 Express to convert my system to use cellular. TG1 install went fine but when I tested the system, my siren did not work. On the control panel, I disconnected the wires for the "bell" and touched them to the battery. The siren did sound so that means the siren is okay and the wiring to it is okay. The fuse looks okay, but I did not remove it and test it. I know that the siren was working a few months ago. What else can I test/check? Thanks for reading.
 
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Old 09-17-15, 07:50 PM
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I was looking and I don't see anything in programming that could cause that unless I missed it. Did you change any panel programming ?

If the bell fuse was blown you would get a trouble on the keypad.
Without having a siren connected or an EOL resistor on the bell output.... you should get a trouble.

Have you checked the bell output with a voltmeter when the alarm is tripped ?
I would check the bell output with a meter with the siren connected and disconnected.
 
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Old 09-18-15, 05:54 AM
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I did not change any panel programming that I am aware of. Is there a setting to make the siren silent? If so, how would I check that?

How would I check the bell output? Use my meter on 15V AC, and trigger the alarm?
 
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Old 09-18-15, 03:11 PM
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Does anyone else have any other input on this?
 
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Old 09-18-15, 06:22 PM
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Check the output with the meter on 15v DC..... and yes.....trigger the alarm.
If it's monitored.... call it on test first.
 
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Old 09-19-15, 08:58 AM
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Thanks for your help so far. Here is what I did. With the alarm system unarmed, I measured the voltage on the bell output with the wires connected. It measured about 2 volts. With the wires disconnected, it measured about 11 volts.

I then armed the system and triggered the alarm with the wires connected. The first time I triggered it, the panels buzzed and I did receive a siren blast for about 1 second and the volts were about 14 volts.

I then disarmed the alarm, armed it again and triggered it. This time, no siren blast, and the volts still measured 14 volts.

What gives???

Is there a chance the TG1 is taking too much power and so the siren will not work? I have 3 keypads in the house.
 
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Old 09-19-15, 11:24 AM
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If you tripped the alarm and did measure 14v on the bell output but had no bell/siren...... then the audible is defective.

When replacing it..... try to limit a replacement to 500ma (1/2A) of current draw.
 
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Old 09-20-15, 06:29 PM
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Thanks again for your help. Not sure what you mean by the "audible" is defective. Are you saying the siren is defective? But didn't my test of hooking it directly to the battery prove that the siren is working correctly? Any tips on where I can find one that is compatible with my system?
 
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Old 09-20-15, 08:51 PM
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An audible can be a bell or siren.

You hooked the siren to the battery and it worked.
You hooked it back up to the panel and it worked for a second and then the panel chattered.
You checked the voltage again and had the 14v but no siren.

That tells me that the siren has an intermittent problem/short.

I don't even install outside audibles for my customers anymore. No one wants to hear them. Of course, all of my systems are monitored. If your system is not then you are relying on an outside audible as a deterrent.

Any 15-20 watt siren should work ok. A few links below.

mcm electronics/product/DISTRIBUTED-BY-MCM-VHS35-/82-18925

A little louder... still ok on your panel.
mcm electronics/product/ELK-PRODUCTS-ELK-SS15-/82-3790
amazon/ELK-SS15-Siren-15watt-Horn/dp/B00DKCC42W
 
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Old 09-21-15, 10:33 AM
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Thank so much for all your detailed help Pete; for answering my novice questions and for the links. One more question, what should my keypad do if an alarm is triggered? When I come in, it will sound a long audible tone which is the entry delay. If the master code is not entered then what?
 
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Old 09-21-15, 02:05 PM
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Sorry, another question. For the first siren you pointed me to, do I also need a "siren driver" for it, or is it builtin, or are there indications that mine is okay?
 
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Old 09-21-15, 03:36 PM
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You need a self contained siren that runs on 12vdc. OR you could buy just an 8 ohm speaker and a driver board. Just as easy staying with the self contained unit.

If your alarm was set and then triggered..... if nothing was touched at the keypad the audible would eventually time out and the alarm would still be active. When you disarm the panel it should say 1 alarm to let you know it had been triggered until you enter your code a second time.
 
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Old 09-22-15, 05:52 AM
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Pete, thanks so much for taking the time to answer all of my questions.
 
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Old 10-04-15, 11:03 AM
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I received the new siren and just for a test I hooked it directly to the panel on the Bell output terminals. As soon as I did, it started blaring faintly. I guess this is because there is a small amount of voltage coming out of the panel? Will the siren stop sounding when I hook it up to its normal location due to the distance or some other reason?
 
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Old 10-04-15, 11:36 AM
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When the panel is not in the "alarm triggered" state there should be no voltage on those terminals.
 
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Old 10-04-15, 01:00 PM
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See the first paragraph in post #6 above where I measured 2 volts and then 11 volts with the panel not armed and not in alarm state. So do those measurements seem to indicate a problem with the panel?
 
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Old 10-04-15, 01:59 PM
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A small, reverse polarity voltage is used to supervise the siren circuit. Are you reading this voltage in forward or reverse polarity to the label of the terminals?

Some sirens are more sensitive than others and react to the supervision voltage (in which case a 1000 ohm resistor across the terminals will solve the problem).

That said: This hardware is circa 1997 +/- a couple of years, and the laws of thermodynamics haven't been repealed. A system of this age has been operating on borrowed time since somewhere in the 10-15 year age range...
 
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Old 10-05-15, 07:33 AM
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Thanks for the response Ron.

I used my meter as follows:
I touched the red/positive probe on the meter to the bell output + post
I touched the black/negative probe on the meter to the bell output - post

The above game me a 2 volt reading.

When the siren sounded as described above, perhaps it was because I had connected the siren to the panel with just the 1 foot long wire that came with the siren. If I connect it to where the old siren was, with perhaps 60 feet or so of wire, there will be enough resistance that the new siren will not sound. Does that make sense?
 
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Old 10-05-15, 08:09 AM
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Typically the supervision voltage will be in reverse polarity (-2 volts) when the system isn't in alarm. If you are seeing a positive voltage on the terminals, then that's usually a sign that the bell output is failing...
 
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Old 10-05-15, 08:43 AM
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Okay, thanks much for the input Ron.
 
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Old 10-05-15, 09:05 AM
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With the bell output providing a consistent 2 volts positive, is that a possible reason my original siren failed?
 
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Old 10-05-15, 12:58 PM
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Sometimes the siren failing kills the bell output, sometimes vice-versa.
 
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Old 10-05-15, 01:13 PM
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Okay, thanks. So at this point, can I hook up a 1000 ohm resistor to keep the siren from sounding when there is no alarm? If so, how do I do that?
 
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Old 10-08-15, 10:51 AM
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Any thoughts on my question above?
 
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Old 10-08-15, 11:01 AM
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The 1000 ohm resistor can go right across the two bell output terminals.
 
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Old 10-08-15, 12:18 PM
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So do I place the ends of the resistor under the output terminals and screw them down like I would the sire wires? If so, then where do I attach the siren wires?
 
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Old 10-08-15, 01:22 PM
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The resistance goes _across_ the output, in _parallel_ to the siren load. Connect the wires under the same terminals with the resistor.

You are just increasing the resistance across the device to keep the bleed through voltage and current below the threshold where it makes noise.
 
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Old 10-08-15, 01:49 PM
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Okay, great. Now I just need to find a resistor. The Xadio Xhack near me is closed.
 
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Old 10-27-15, 12:33 PM
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Got this working, thanks again everyone.
 
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