DSC PowerSeries 1832 Help Needed

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Old 12-07-15, 01:55 PM
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Question DSC PowerSeries 1832 Help Needed

Hello All,

I am remodeling my house one room at a time. I figured while I was doing it, I can add security system wiring as I go. I have installed the system, gave it power, ran 2 keypads, and 2 motion detectors so far. The system has power, and the keypads have power. All of that works fine.

The problem I am having is on the DSC Touch keypad, the zone status is blinking, and will not allow me to arm. When I click on Zone Status, both Zones 1 and 2 have an open door symbol. Zones 3-8 have a check mark. Also, when on the zone status, if I wave in front of a motion detector, it illuminates red, during this time, the zone for that sensor goes to a check mark. But then switches back.

Here is how both the motion sensors are currently wired. At the panel, red and black is in aux power. Green is in Z1, white is in common. At the sensor, red and black in power accordingly. Green is in NC, white in common. I also added a 5.6K resistor across NC and Common for EOL resistance. When programming these 2 motion sensors. I set Zone 1, Motion Detector 1 to a zone definition 01 for delay. Zone 2, Motion detector 2, is set to a zone definition 03 for instant. Zones 3-8 are set to definition 00 for null.

What am I doing wrong? Why is the zone showing open if wired to normally closed? Why does the zone go to OK when it has motion? Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm obviously new to this.
 
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Old 12-07-15, 02:12 PM
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With a normally closed contact like a motion, the resistor goes in series with either the common or the NC. Not across both (parallel).
 
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Old 12-07-15, 02:41 PM
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Thanks MrRonFL, that did the trick. Chalk that up to a rookie mistake.

Now, I do have another couple questions. I want to add smoke detectors to my system. I have 3 levels, a basement, first floor, and second floor. What's the best way to do this? Should I use 2 or 4 wire sensors? I'm definitely going with DSC, but they have smoke, heat, all kinds of different ones. What should I look at getting?
 
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Old 12-07-15, 02:55 PM
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To be by code..... you'd need to install a smoke detector in every bedroom, a smoke/co detector outside the bedrooms/or one on every floor. Especially important if you have gas appliances.

Combination units are not common in a monitored alarm system so you could just install smokes and then use battery/electric co detectors in the hall.

You would run a dedicated smoke loop thru the house. It would start at the panel and then daisy chain thru each device. Normally you would use a two wire cable. If you want some type of panel activated sounder at each smoke detector then you would run a four wire cable.

No smokes in the kitchen. Heat detector can be installed if desired but not required. Smoke in the basement/and in boiler room if you have gas appliances.

As to the exact models.... Mr Ron could help you better on that.
 
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Old 12-07-15, 03:41 PM
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Thanks Pete.

My panel has PGM 1 and 2. PGM 3 and 4 are blacked out and don't have terminals. Does this mean I can put the basement and first floor on PGM1 and the second floor on PGM2?

Also, I definitely want to get the smoke detectors that have built in alarms as not each room has a keypad. I just need help on deciding between 2 wire or 4 wire, and which one specifically from this list:

Enjoy great low prices in our Fire Protection product line at HomeSecurityStore! | DSC
 
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Old 12-07-15, 04:30 PM
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You can only put 2 wire smokes on PGM-2 (quirk of DSC hardware).

If it is in your budget, run 4 conductor wire for the smoke loop. If you want to change your mind, later, and do a sounder base model, the wiring will be in place to support it.

I favor the system sensor models for smokes. They are easy to install, look decent, and are an industry standard.

They do make a combo unit, but typically it will be more than twice the cost of smoke only models. If CO is a concern (I am assuming that you have fuel burning appliances), it's not a bad way to go. The CO sensor (which has a shorter lifespan than the smoke mechanism) is a replaceable module, which mitigates the big problem with combo devices in the past.

If your house already has 120v interconnect smoke alarms, it might be more cost effective to replace those with 120V interconnect combo devices, instead, and have the system smokes as a supplement (they are generally much better grade hardware...)
 
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Old 12-07-15, 04:45 PM
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Thanks for the reply Ron. I'm new to this all, so you might have to explain it out a little bit further for me.

1.) Should I go with 2 wire or 4 wire?
2.)Can you give the model number of the DSC detectors you are referring to? Like I said I would like them to have their own alarm built in, so each one rings in the event of a fire.
3.) Based on my house layout of a basement(one big rec room, one utility room), first floor(kitchen, dining room, living room, bathroom, foyer), and second floor( 3 bedrooms, one bathroom, hallway). How would you utilize PGM 1 and 2?
4.) I have 2 propane furnaces, one in the basement for first floor. One in the attic for the second floor. I would like to incorporate CO detectors as well. Where would you place them?
5.) If I understand, PGM2 has a limiting factor of only 2 detectors? How does it know how many are connected?
6.) One last question(I promise). Now with the system up and running. When going to bed, I press *9 my user code to arm everything instantly, eliminating any delay. Is there a way to re-configure the stay button to do this so I don't have to press *9, user code?
 
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Old 12-08-15, 02:19 AM
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2 wire is the smart way to go. Functionally they are identical, but 2 wire devices are much simpler to install correctly. The PGM2 input supports about _12_ detectors, not 2... (it's a current draw limit).

System Sensor: https://www.systemsensor.com/en-us/Pages/Spot.aspx

Placing CO detectors: CMDP | Helping you position Carbon Monoxide Detectors safely

Another DSC quirk: You can't arm in instant mode without entering a code. You could program the button for *9, but you still need the code. It's an anti-false alarm feature.
 
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