Wireless system recommendations


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Old 03-09-16, 06:02 PM
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Wireless system recommendations

Got a recommendation for a wireless system......Honeywell Ademco 20P

Looking at everything, while the price is higher than most, not a real problem since the quality is supposed to at least match the price......

My problem is: Most everything I read about it doesn't claim the instructions are suitable for a DIY person (me).......Looked at their website and can not find anything labeled "Installation Instructions".....but they do have training classes for installers.......

Should this be a warning? I built a 4200 sq ft addition by myself (excluding trusses and roofing) and just on principle don't like to bring someone to do a job I could manage.

My criteria are: dog friendly motion detectors,,,,,and,,,,,all wireless......

Suggestions greatly appreciated....
 
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Old 03-09-16, 07:56 PM
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None of the professional-grade alarm brands were designed for DIYers, but all of them--including Honeywell/Ademco--can be mastered after going through the learning curve.

There are different opinions about which brand has the most difficult learning curve for the DIYer installing his/her first system. I personally favor Honeywell. Others favor DSC, GE(formerly ITI), Caddex, Napco. All of these brands can fill your needs. Sensors like Pet-tolerant PIRs are universally compatible.

Avoid Bosch (formerly Radionics) and DMP, they not only aren't DIY-friendly, they're DIY-hostile. (I haven't worked on them in years, so if that's no longer true, feel free to enlighten me.)

In support of my personal favorite, Honeywell/Ademco has the industry's best record for making its new parts forward-and-backward compatible. E.g., nearly all the many keypads, and all the RF Receivers, and all the wireless sensors they've made for the last 20 years, by design, are compatible with all the control panels made within that time period, up to present. Users have been able to upgrade panels without having to buy new keypads and RF Receivers and all-new wireless sensors as well. And if you had programmed any Vista panel 20 years ago, the programming wouldn't be completely different today for a Vista-20P, just more features.

None of the other brands can make that claim. So that's my plug for Honeywell. I'm sure some of the techs here can mention some of Honeywell's weak points and tout their own personal favorites.
 
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Old 03-09-16, 08:34 PM
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Just something to keep in mind..... if you have pets..... especially larger dogs..... pet friendly means nothing. A pet catching a motion detector just right will set it off.
 
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Old 03-09-16, 11:13 PM
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I'm DIYing an upgrade to a Ademco/Honeywell 20p right now, and all but one of my sensors are currently wireless. It's quite a capable system, and I didn't find any difficulty figuring out how to install it.

I'm upgrading from a ADTized Vista 20SE. It was installed in 2001, and all the maintenance I had to do to get it running was to put new batteries in the wireless sensors, and replace the backup battery in the alarm box. After that, it just worked the way it always had.

Search for "vista 20p installation guide" and you'll find lots of places have the PDF which talks about how to install all the modules and wire all the connections. Give that a read and see if it helps.

I picked up a kit on eBay that had a Vista 20p, including case and power supply, with a 6160RF keypad. You need at least one alphanumeric keypad (like the 6160s) to program the system, and the RF keypad acts as the wireless interface for the panel so you don't have to buy and install the wireless module.

You'll need a 12V sealed lead acid battery, and some alarm wire to hook up the keypad. If you want more than one keypad, wiring them in is best, too.

You'll also need a sounder, or alarm horn of some kind. Again, that's wired in.

Then you'll need wireless sensors. You can use 40 of them with a Vista 20p, and that is plenty for my 3,000sqft house.

If you don't mind running some wires - I'm terrible at fishing wire, and accessibility is not good in a lot of my house - the wired sensors are more reliable and less expensive. A door or window sensor is $5 wired, and between $15 and $40 wireless, depending on where you find them and which type. They add right up.

In general, I'm quite pleased with the Honeywell alarm I had, and the one I'm upgrading too.

If you built the addition, and did the electrical work for it, I'm confident you can handle the Honeywell alarm installation. It's no more difficult than wiring lights and outlets, just different.

There's a bunch of DIY alarm sites that'll give you advice, videos, and sell complete kits, too.
 
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Old 03-10-16, 11:18 AM
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Be aware. While 99.9% of what you find online will give you an idea of whether or not you want to tackle this, don't use them as feature guides. Just for grins, I searched as Lou suggested and the first three installation manuals I could open ranged from 5 to 20 years old (Cover page at the bottom).

And just because it's in the installation instructions, doesn't mean it is/was implemented. See if it's in programming too. Always, RTIF and good luck!
 
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Old 03-10-16, 12:14 PM
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My two cents: I was a novice a couple of weeks ago. I came on this forum and asked for a recommendation given that I was replacing a proprietary Brinks system. The recommendation I was given here was spot on and easy for me to drop in. I was able to reuse all of the Brinks system sensors except for fire alarm. I also added a few wireless sensors on my detached garage. BTW, I put in a Vista 20P and an Envisalink EVL-4.

It took me some time to really figure it all out, perhaps a couple of days but once I had it figured out it's been smooth sailing for the most part. A couple of things really helped me out:
1) The kind help of the professionals on this forum. And they answered questions quickly.
2) The Youtube videos were extraordinarily helpful. When it came to understanding the system and programming it nothing beat the youtube videos. It's one thing to write out instructions, it's another to see a video of them being applied.

Some of the things that threw me for a loop:
1) Understanding that the installer code was your user code and used for everything from arming/disarming to programming the device.
2) I put in a 6150 and 6150RF. The 6150RF confused me because I assumed there were some items I need to program on that device. Nope, all I need to do was enable address 18.
 
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Old 03-10-16, 06:37 PM
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Thanks

Appreciate the comments....


Honeywell 20P it is........buying this week...............
 
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Old 03-10-16, 09:10 PM
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Just to throw a monkey wrench into this discussion, if you want an 'all-in-one' panel I would recommend looking at the 2Gig panel*. The latest model [GC3] has some interesting features added. This panel is blazing a trail in the security/home automation field. Most security companies have been slow to adopt new technology.

The different panels/manufacturers have different characteristics that may [or may not] be a selling point.


*That being said, I have a Honeywell 20P (clone) because I am not so much into the latest technology [except GSM communication] -- The 20P is a work-horse.
 

Last edited by tpring; 03-10-16 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 03-10-16, 09:21 PM
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EEEK!! @235301 : You are in danger of locking yourself out of your Vista-20P panel with no way to salvage it!!

Do not, DO NOT arm your system again until you program yourself a Master Code (NOT the same as the Installer Code). And after programming yourself a Master Code, DO NOT arm your system until you confirm that your Master Code is being accepted. DO NOT test it by arming and seeing the new code will disarm. NEVER ARM YOUR SYSTEM until you verify that you have a working User/Master Code.

Here's the danger:
(1) If your system is armed, you can't get into programming--not by Installer code nor with *+# simultaneously after power-up, the "back door" into programming. It doesn't work if the system is armed when you try.
(2) Your Installer Code will disarm your panel ONLY if it was used to arm the panel. If you happen to arm the panel by any other means--by using the Quick-Arm feature, or using a key fob to arm--then you can be locked out of your panel.

As unlikely as this may seem to you, my concern comes from the occasional poster on this board who has managed to lock him/her-self out of the panel and the only solution is a new panel and re-programming from scratch.

I recommend that before you do anything else, you go into programming and ensure that field *39 is set to [0], (zero) so that your system will power up disarmed after powering down. That ensures you can't inadvertently lock yourself out if you happen to arm by other means than the IC.
*99 to exit panel programming, and set yourself a Master Code:

[4-digit Installer Code] + [8] + [02] + [CODE], where CODE = 4-digit Master Code. This is done in normal operation mode, not panel programming mode.

Test it by CODE + 9 and see if it toggles the Chime Mode on and off. After confirming that you have a working User Code (yes, the Master is a User Code (User #2) with special privileges), THEN you can arm and disarm with it.

I personally recommend that you set a 2nd user code (User #4 or higher) just to have a fallback: MC + [8] + [04] + [4-digit code]. This sets a code for User #4.

Once you have your User Code(s) set you can decide if you want to change *39 to "Power Up in Previous State"--this means that if the system lost power and died while armed, it will power up armed. Sounds secure, but it often powers back up while doors are open and/or people are moving in front of PIRs, so it causes false alarms.
I personally don't enable the PUIPS unless the user/customer insists, and any false alarms resulting are on his/her head.
 
 

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