Vista 20P Siren will not stop even after disarming successfully.


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Old 05-16-16, 09:42 AM
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Vista 20P Siren will not stop even after disarming successfully.

Hello,

We have an Ademco Vista 20P with Extender Board that works perfectly until it is triggered. If it becomes triggered normally (door open/Glass break, anyhting) the alarm will as designed engage the sirens and dial out feature. The problem is, the sirens will not shut off when the code is entered and the alarms is "stopped". The panel takes the code, the display turns to normal but the sirens are still going. The only way to stop the sirens is to cut A/C power and the battery. After re-energizing the panel works perfectly again assuming nothing triggers the alarm... Has anyone seen this before? Any ideas what it could be?
 
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Old 05-16-16, 01:15 PM
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It could be that the circuit on the motherboard that feeds the siren has a relay that is starting to fail. If so, about all you can do is replace the board.

However, it's possible that you may have a siren with an independent power supply. The easy test for this, is while it's in alarm, disconnect one of the siren wires. If it keeps going, then the problem is in the siren, itself. If it stops, then you may have a board starting to fail. Sometimes that happens when a siren is installed that is a hair too big, and draws too much current through the output.
 
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Old 05-25-16, 08:48 AM
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Siren won't stop!?

This is a very easy fix and cost will be less then $30. The battery inside the control panel box is no longer holding charge or has came "unplugged" there is ways to check for this. The reason for this is to power an exterior siron the battery is its direct power sorce with out it the siron will not turn off.

Step one: look at the key pad screen. Does it say "bat"? If so its the battery.

Step two: go to the control panel box most likely a metal box about a foot tall. Most likely in a closet (some times the other side of the wall from the key pad) open it and inside there is a black box. If your still unsure what it looks like it should say things like 12v battery on it somewhere. This is the battery. Insure the red cable with a clip on the end is attached to the red side of the battery and the black wire with a clip is attached to the black side.

Step three: if all the other steps are completed and the siron still unable to turn off. The battery needs to be replaced. You can get one at radio shack. Take the battery with you and they will know what one to give you. You can also ask a alarm company for one some times they will sell you one or even give you one. Then follow step two on installing your new battery. The "bat" on the screen will take a while to clear so best way to check is set it off and see if the siron turns off.

Your welcome.
 
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Old 05-25-16, 02:54 PM
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Wow, that brings back old memories. Now that you remind me, there were some older panels that used a "flip-flop" relay to change the armed state (Arm/Disarm). Some of those old panels--the classic Ademco 342R might have been one--used flip-flops that were "power hogs", i.e., they needed a lot of power to energize, but since it was only a momentary draw (less than a second), it wasn't a power issue unless the battery was already _very_ weak, in which case, if it was already powering the siren, it might not be able to muster the power surge needed to activate the relay, and the customer wasn't able to disarm while siren was sounding. The voltage would drop to the point that the panel time-out circuits weren't working either, and the siren wouldn't stop until panel was powered down.

That was back in the days of relay-based control panels. Pretty sure no major brand has that particular problem nowadays, certainly not the Vista series. And the panel does a load test at least once a day (don't remember exactly how often with the V-20P) so if you have a low battery, you will have seen and heard from a keypad about it.

So, yes, that's something to check with really old panels, Chick-tech-guru, but I don't think that can be the OP's problem here.
 
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Old 11-11-16, 06:28 PM
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Sorry for the slow response. I replaced the battery and that did not fix anything. I replaced both of the sirens and also nothing. I took a siren and wired it direct to the board to rule out a short in the field wiring, still not working correctly. The only way to get the alarm to behave correctly is to pull the siren off of the board all together and let the Alarm work without a siren.(built in speakers in the keypads still alert but not sirens). To be clear, when a siren is connected, the alarm will arm and disarm just fine. The problem is that if the alarm is triggered to the point that the siren engages, even through the alarm will disarm, the siren will not stop until the battery is pulled to the panel and main power disconnected. You can even re-arm the alarm while the siren is still blasting. I have never seen or heard anything like it.

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-12-16, 02:19 PM
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I suspect MrRonFL is right and you have a failed relay on the motherboard. Nothing to do about it but replace the V-20P control panel.
 
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Old 12-11-16, 02:52 PM
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In normal untriggered state, should the Vista 20p show 12 volts at terminals 3 and 4? I noticed my siren sounding at very low audio and wondered if its the siren gone bad, or, a relay on the circuit board.

Thanks for any assistance
 
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Old 12-11-16, 07:57 PM
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If your system is not in alarm, there should be no voltage reading on terminals, and no current going to the siren.

If your siren is sounding at low audio, then it's not a stuck relay. The relay would have the siren either sounding fully or not at all. It's also not the siren--your siren can't sound itself. It needs to be powered from somewhere.

I can think of two possibilities: Either some voltage is leaking through the panel circuity to your siren output with _just_ enough current to put audio on your siren; or you have an external power supply that is somehow feeding back to your panel. Some systems do have a 2nd power supply independent of the panel.

Take the wires off terminals 3 and 4 (keep track of which is which) and see if you still read 12 VDC across the terminals while the keypad indicates a READY condition (no alarm). If you do, then it's time to look for a replacement panel.
 
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Old 12-12-16, 06:55 AM
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Thanks very much for the quick reply-- I'm getting 12 volts at the siren in disarmed state-- so it seems my board is sending those 12 volts when it shouldn't-- and, the siren must have gone kaput since with 12 volts the sound is faint.

Am guessing I need a new board and siren.

Pacam
 
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Old 12-12-16, 04:26 PM
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Hard to tell if the siren failed and damaged the board, or vice versa. In any case, it's time for a swap out.
 
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Old 12-13-16, 06:41 AM
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That's what I'm thinking-- 20-year old siren failure may have caused the fairly new board to fritz out.

So I just ordered both. Wish there was a way I could copy and dump all my current settings into the new board when it arrives.

Thanks again for your advice.
 
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Old 12-13-16, 06:42 PM
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There is software for doing that, but you also have to have the direct connection module; and the software itself has a bit of a learning curve (it's really more useful for people who set up lots of similar systems).

Most residential systems are pretty basic. Since your system is still basically operational, it's easy enough to check all of your basic settings and mark any changes on the programming form.
 
 

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