SecurityLink SL1500 - Won't Stop Beeping


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Old 12-08-16, 07:33 AM
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SecurityLink SL1500 - Won't Stop Beeping

We have an un-monitored system. The motherboard has a sticker that reads SAAM-150. The sticker on the metal box says SL150. Recently, the keypad started to beep at random times, maybe once or twice per day. The keypad showed the Bat warning on its screen.

I checked the purchase date on the battery and it is only one year old. I removed the battery from the box and tested the battery with my multi-meter and got a reading of 13.7. So the battery is good.

I then reinstalled the battery and removed the fuse on the motherboard. The stubby fuse looked good, but I don't know much about fuses. At first, I thought the fuse was bad because it had a darker band around the center glass section. But as I looked at the fuse more, that band looked as if it was a part of the fuse design.

When I removed the battery, the system made no chirping noises at all. After I reinstalled the battery, I removed the fuse. Again the system made no sounds with fuse removal.

I also used my multi-meter to test the AC power at the motherboard. That test produced 17+ volts.

So the battery and AC power both test fine. The fuse I am unsure about due to my inexperience diagnosing failed fuses.

I also disconnected the AC and the battery to see if the system would somehow reset itself. When I reconnected AC and then battery, the keypad screen was cleared of the Bat warning. However, later in the day, the beeping returned along with the Bat warning.

The beeping goes away with the push of any button on the keypad, but something is obviously wrong and the random beeping is annoying.

Any ideas of anything else I can try to get this problem solved?
 
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Old 12-08-16, 04:30 PM
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The Security Link panels are modified Ademco/Honeywell Vista systems.

How many zones does your system have?
Is there a date on the wiring diagram on the door of the system enclosure (where the battery is)?
Does your system have wireless devices (a BAT indicator with a zone number is a low battery on a transmitter)?
 
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Old 12-08-16, 04:48 PM
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Nevermind:

The SL150 is an 8 zone panel. Based on the date, it's either a Vista 20se, or one of other early Vista panels.

In any case:
Installer manual: http://www.alarmhow.net/manuals/Adem...n%20Manual.pdf

Programming Form: http://www.alarmhow.net/manuals/Adem...m%20Manual.pdf

The way to check a fuse is by testing it for continuity, once removed from the circuit. It sounds like the fuses are good, but your system may have a failing power supply. At 16 years, your system is probably running up against the law of entropy.

Also, are you testing the battery under load, with AC power disconnected? The 13v reading sounds like the charger output.
 
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Old 12-08-16, 07:50 PM
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First of all, thanks for the help. Yes, the system is 16 years old as our house was built in the year 2000, which was when the security system was installed also. I will test the fuse for continuity using my multi-meter (just watched a youtube on how to do this). Is the power supply the small transformer that plugs into a standard wall outlet? I replaced the original transformer a few years ago, so we are not still using the original. And I did get a reading of over 17 volts using the multi-meter on the AC screw connections on the board. Is this the correct way to check a power supply or is there something else to check?

I tested the battery after completing disconnecting it from leads inside the security box and taking it down to my workbench. I don't have the ability to do a load test, but I do not suspect the battery to be the problem as it is only one year old. The last few batteries have lasted about 5 years each.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 02:28 AM
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The wall transformer supplies 16VAC to the actual power supply circuit that is built into the motherboard (this is where the AC to 12v DC conversion happens). If that circuitry is either not charging the battery or simply not able to recognize the charge state of the battery, you can get a BAT indication with a good battery.

If so, this is generally a sign of the eventual failure of the motherboard.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 06:23 AM
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I see. So if the fuse checks out ok, and the battery and the transformer are ok, then the board is likely failing. Is it fairly common for these type of boards to have this sort of failure (or some other type of failure) at the age of my board?

Can I replace the board with something very similar that would be easy for a novice like me to correctly transfer over the wiring connections?
 
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Old 12-09-16, 02:15 PM
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It's not _common_, but not unheard of. The law of entropy hasn't been repealed. A battery failing in a dead short can start the process, and the panel will finally die years later.
 
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Old 12-10-16, 07:22 AM
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Fuse checked out fine with multi-meter.

Forgot to mention that since this beeping started I have seen once an FC code on the panel. I read here that this is for communication failure. I unplugged both AC and battery, then restored connection to both AC and battery and the FC code went away and did not return.

Does this suggest anything else I might try or look into?

If no, then it sounds like we are down to either a bad battery (that only shows bad under load) or a failing board.
 
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Old 12-10-16, 07:57 AM
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FC is "failure to communicate". If you aren't currently monitored, you can delete the communicator phone numbers from programming, then that problem will not come back.

From the forum FAQ: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...e-posting.html
Retrieving Installer code
Nearly all Ademco family (this includes First Alert, Security Link, and several ADT models) panels can retrieve the Installer code by disconnecting the battery, then the AC power. Wait a minute, then reconnect power in the opposite order. Within 50 seconds, on any keypad press * + # at the same time. Unless the system has had an installer lockout feature activated, the panel should go into program mode. The details by system will vary, but the programming section number that shows on the display will be the location for the installer code (on _most_ panels this will be 20). Key in # and the location number, and the panel will read back the installer code one digit at a time. Exit program mode using *99.

To turn off the dialer on _most_ Honeywell/Ademco panels (and clones):
Once in programming enter *41* and *42*. This erases the dial out phone numbers and turns off the dialer. Check your install manual, there are a few obscure models that the phone numbers are in a different location.
 
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Old 12-13-16, 07:36 PM
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I followed the steps below yesterday morning and retrieved the installer code. Then I deleted the programming in slots 41 and 42. So far, at least for the last 36 hours, the keypad and has not flashed any battery warning and started to beep. I am not sure how turning off the dialer connects to the battery warning, but something about going through the process appears to have solved my problem. Hope it lasts and I don't have to mess around with getting a new board and keypad. Thanks for the help.

From the forum FAQ: Alarm Forum FAQ (Please read before posting)
Retrieving Installer code
Nearly all Ademco family (this includes First Alert, Security Link, and several ADT models) panels can retrieve the Installer code by disconnecting the battery, then the AC power. Wait a minute, then reconnect power in the opposite order. Within 50 seconds, on any keypad press * + # at the same time. Unless the system has had an installer lockout feature activated, the panel should go into program mode. The details by system will vary, but the programming section number that shows on the display will be the location for the installer code (on _most_ panels this will be 20). Key in # and the location number, and the panel will read back the installer code one digit at a time. Exit program mode using *99.

To turn off the dialer on _most_ Honeywell/Ademco panels (and clones):
Once in programming enter *41* and *42*. This erases the dial out phone numbers and turns off the dialer. Check your install manual, there are a few obscure models that the phone numbers are in a different location.
 
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Old 12-14-16, 03:50 AM
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The battery trouble makes the system try to call out to report the trouble. If there's no connection, the FC is generated.
 
 

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