Identifying old detector / What to do with wiring?

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Old 03-01-19, 10:26 AM
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Identifying old detector / What to do with wiring?

I am installing new smoke detectors in my home as the old ones were from the 90's.
I purchased a dozen name brand detectors and installing has been a breeze. I cut the power, swap base rings, plug in existing plug and Im done.

However in the dining area I have an electrical cable coming out of the wall which branches into two wires both of which branch into two wires.
There is no communication interconnect wire as there is for all the other smoke detectors.

I think what used to be there was whatever the included picture is. A large smoke detector/CO maybe? If I could identify the detector I would able to swap the existing with a new model and affix one to the wall where the wires are.

What kind of detector is this?

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Last edited by PJmax; 03-01-19 at 03:50 PM. Reason: resized pictures
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Old 03-01-19, 10:29 AM
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Sorry, everything got turned in the pic, but you get the idea...I hope.
 
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Old 03-01-19, 11:31 AM
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Can't tell from the front. Take it off the base and look on the back.
The make and model should be on it.
 
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Old 03-01-19, 03:22 PM
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Right. Duh.

As it turns out its a UTC 449CT Heat and Smoke Detector. I think it was part of a now defunct security system within the house. Once Im done hanging all the new smoke detectors, those that are linked together, and power them up I'll have to see if this device even has power. Given the guage of the wire I think its low voltage security powered by a plug-in adapter in the master closet. I wont know for a bit, but I already know it doesnt have an interconnect lead so its not part of the smoke detector system that covers the house. Kinda confusing.
 
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Old 03-01-19, 03:46 PM
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That is a four wire low voltage head. It would need to be tied into a security panel. If that system is no longer working.... that smoke detector will also be dead.

Is there one needed at that location ?
You may need to extend the 120v wiring to there.
 
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Old 03-01-19, 04:27 PM
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If you're talking about running new 120V line voltage wiring, which I believe would have to be on the same AC circuit as the other smokes, it might actually be easier to get the alarm system control panel back up and operational, depending on make and model and how "defunct" it is.

My thought, off the top of my head, is that even if it's a Brinks panel (and therefore useless from a DIY viewpoint), homeowner can replace it with a cheap DIY panel like Honeywell Vista-20 variant & keypad (or other professional-grade panel and keypad) from eBay for less than $40, and still spend less money and/or time than running new Romex wire from the smoke alarm circuit. Unless you really like opening and repairing drywall--ugh!

OP wouldn't even need to program the panel: Any defaulted Honeywell Vista panel comes with Zone 1 programmed to serve as a 4-wire fire zone. If he just straps out other zones with jumper wires or resistors (assuming they have problems), and connects the existing siren (may need a siren driver if existing panel is a Brinks). then the panel serves solely as fire panel.

That's just my 2 cents worth. I really hate running Romex behind drywall.

EDIT: It just occurred to me belatedly that I'm assuming the defunct alarm system's siren is working. But even if it has to be replaced, I'd _still_ rather do that than run open drywall to run Romex. But that's just me, and I wanted to mention that you have the option.

My own experience is that most "defunct" systems were retired because of minor problems that are nullified if you're not using the burglary circuits.
 
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Old 03-01-19, 06:53 PM
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>OP wouldn't even need to program the panel: Any defaulted Honeywell Vista panel comes with Zone 1 programmed to serve as a 4-wire fire zone. If he just straps out other zones with jumper wires or

Whut? Don't you mean "2-wire"? Didn't you make this same mistake four years ago at the old DIYsecurityforums (now Shieldlab forums).

"Okay, this is embarrassing... :"( You're absolutely right, the V-20P manual does say no 4W smokes on Zone one."
 

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Old 03-01-19, 07:40 PM
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@PondScum : Dang, you're right: I did it again! Thanks, PondScum. I've been retired too long and I answered without enough thought. I need to do a couple of installations to refresh my memory on Honeywell Fire configurations.

So correction: The 449 smoke sensor needs to be replaced anyway, so if OP replaces it with any 2-wire smoke sensor (which would be easier anyway), then Zone 1 is programmed for it.

Assuming the 449 was wired properly, then 4 wires to it indicate it's either the only sensor or the last sensor on the loop. There should have been an End-of-Line Resistor (EOLR) on the wiring, whose value have would depended on the make and model of the defunct alarm system panel. Be mindful of getting that resistor in the loop, if you're going to go this route.
 
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Old 03-01-19, 10:01 PM
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I looked up the model number of the smoke detector and its a GE smoke detector. so it might be a GE Panel ?
 
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Old 03-01-19, 10:53 PM
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4 wire smokes are basically universal (in essence, they are fancy relay devices) They will work on any system that will take a normally open fire zone input.
 
 

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