Safewatch 3000 Failure

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  #1  
Old 04-27-19, 12:14 PM
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Question Safewatch 3000 Failure

I have an ADT branded Safewatch 3000 panel, with wired zones, and an upgrade add-on (from ADT) for additional wireless zones, plus a wired internet communications add-on from AlarmRelay.com

The system is currently dead. While troubleshooting, I powered it down for a bit, thinking it might be the transformer. It was not, as it was outputting 18.4 VAC. When I powered back up, the system came back to life, but in a matter of several minutes, it again completely shutdown.

I have 18.4 VAC at #1 & #2, but only 1.3 VDC at #4 & #5. Fresh battery also, with 12 or 14 VDC output. (don't recall which)

The recent history leading up to this issue is that in January, we had the house re-sided, so I suppose there is a slight chance that an errant nail shorted a wire. But, it has been working fine until recently. Plus, we have had this 'communication failure' on occasion in the past, prior to the siding work.

About a week or so ago, our main entry door (zone #2) stopped working, and I had also noticed that our front door (seldom used) (zone #1) was also not working. But, a few days ago, the zone #2 door started working again (without any repair), but I do not know about the other door.

Yesterday, the system started beeping a lot, giving me a communication error. (it is connected to AlarmRelay.com via a wired internet add-on). That problem seemed to come and go, and I was continually getting emails saying that 'remote connection' was lost, and then another saying it was restored.

Now, nothing works. Control panel is completely dead, and there are no blinking lights in the main box downstairs, including the communications device. All the above voltage readings are the same.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 04-27-19, 01:09 PM
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Your transformer is reading too high. You should find its _nominal_ rating printed on the transformer, and it should read 16.5VAC _nominal_ output, but I typically expect it to read more like 17 or 17.5VAC unless it's got a heavy load on it, like charging a weak battery or keeping lots of peripherals powered. But nearly 2 volts over nominal rating at T1 & T2 is indicative that its output is too high. It may have burned up something in the SW3000 panel's power circuit. Let us know what's printed on the transformer.

Are you sure T4 & T5 are reading 1.3 (one-point-3) VDC, and not 13 (thirteen) VDC? If so, take all wires off T5 (they'll usually be red) and read what voltage shows at the terminals with no load on them. If you're reading 13+VDC with no load, you may have something shorted on one of the power wires that is pulling the panel power down--if it hasn't already burned out something in the panel. If removing the wires causes the T4 & T5 output to read 13+VDC, then add the wires back on one at a time until the voltage drops again. That will tell which wire is causing the power drain.


Get the control panel straightened out first, and then we can investigate what's happening with your doors. BTW, what do you mean when you say they "aren't working"? Do you mean the chime doesn't sound when you open them, or the keypad displays "FAULTED", or what?
 
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Old 04-27-19, 05:34 PM
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Yes, the transformer is rated 16.5 VAC (Honeywell unit) It reads 18.4 VAC across #1 & #2, as well as directly off of the transformer terminals when disconnected from the panel. Another thread on this topic stated that was normal if there was no load.

Across terminals #4 & #5, reads 1.29 VDC. ( I suppose I could be mis-reading my digital meter, but that's what it says) There are 4 red wires attached to #5. I removed them, and the reading is slightly higher, around 1.4 VDC. The four wires..... two of them head off in the direction of the suspect door and keypad, one goes to the communication modem, and the other to the secondary wireless controller.

Regarding the doors 'not working'..... I meant that the chime does not work, nor does the system detect it opening. However, nothing works now. There is no activity anywhere. No blinking lights on the system board, wireless board, comm modem, and nothing on on the keypad.

I'm leaning towards a short in either the door or the keypad wiring as a result of our siding installation. However, I am skeptical as the second door, which also was not similarly responding, is nowhere near the siding work. Next I will try to isolate the zone connections, however, I don't have any resistors for that task.
 
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Old 04-27-19, 07:33 PM
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18.x volts is generally a sign that the system isn't actually drawing power from the transformer; so the rectifier circuit in the main board has likely failed. Most likely the simple bad luck that the laws of thermodynamics haven't been repealed; entropy always wins, in the long run.
 
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Old 05-13-19, 08:39 PM
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Just a follow-up. I replaced the power supply with an identical unit. It also put out 18.4VAC. However, the system came alive and appears to be working properly. I am also showing 12VDC across terminals 4 & 5.

But, after running perfectly for about 6 hours, it has failed again.
 
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Old 05-15-19, 06:12 AM
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A vista 20p are pretty cheap these days. You can find one on eBay for 60 to 80 dollars. The safewatch versions are cheaper with SIA features. You just need a alpha keypad to program it and you should be good
 
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Old 05-15-19, 07:34 AM
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Thanks for the info. Can you point me to an 'alpha keypad'. My system has an Ademco 6150 keypad, which I think is not adequate to program?
 
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Old 05-15-19, 11:42 AM
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The 6160 keypad is the alpha keypad with 16 words line. It will display full English words for programming. The 6150 just displays fixed words that canít be used for programming
 
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