How to test window magnetic switches

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Old 08-12-19, 06:00 PM
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How to test window magnetic switches

FA146CP: I have 6 windows in one zone and I have a fault in that zone. What is a good way to check for the bad switch(s)? Go from the controller and try to find the 1st switch ( I think they are serial connected) with my DVM and proceed down the line. Or, is there another way?
 
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Old 08-12-19, 06:31 PM
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Are all the terminals on the switches visible ?
You don't need to find the first one. Go to every switch in that zone. Use your ohmmeter set to Rx1 or AUTO to locate the open switch. After you locate it..... short across it and see if the zone now sets up.
 
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Old 08-13-19, 07:52 AM
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Can I just short the switch wires to find the fault? Are they normally closed?
 
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Old 08-13-19, 03:26 PM
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Something that often gets overlooked are the magnets in the magnet & switch pair. Sometimes a door or (especially) window goes into fault because the magnet drops out of a window sash or door. or the frame shifts and the magnet is just too far away, or gets misaligned. Check to see that all your magnets are there, and aligned near the switches like they're supposed to be.
(I can't tell you how that is, without knowing what kind of switch/magnets you have--there are numerous variations.)

I recommend getting a bar magnet and testing each switch with it before you start taking things apart. Set the keypad to CHIME and then open each door & window, one at a time, and see if you can make the chime work by bringing the bar magnet to and away from the switch.
 
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Old 08-14-19, 06:48 AM
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I think the others have covered my thoughts, but I'll keep condense them for you.

Attached is a painfully bad hand sketch of how I would teach our new techs to wire this setup. It's not my preferred method as I like a zone per contact, but is what you have to do in some cases.
Please keep in mind there is no real standard for wiring colors. local standard was red/black 12V (if applicable) and green common and yellow zone.

If you know what window is first in line, start there. Short out the two contacts or leads on the sensor to close the loop. If the panel shows open still, your wire is loose in panel or damaged somewhere.
If the zone shows closed with the jumper, remove it and go to the next in line.

99% of all wireless contacts I've used or seen used are normally open. The magnet closes the reed switch inside closing the circuit. You can actually hear some close if super quiet in the room.

In my drawing, I show the red and black wires connected to each other at both ends. May not be the case, but was the practice here
 
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Last edited by Northern Mike; 08-14-19 at 06:50 AM. Reason: Attaching photo
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Old 08-19-19, 07:10 AM
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Thanks for all the info given. I'm at a standstill at the moment due to a health problem, but feel sure your suggestions will solve my problem. Again, thanks very much.
 
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Old 08-19-19, 09:32 AM
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Can I just short the switch wires to find the fault? Are they normally closed?
Actually they are normally open and the magnet forces them closed.

Yes.... you can just short a switch but if you have more than one open...... you won't find the problem by shorting one at a time,
 
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