Help with wiring question Safewatch3000

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Old 09-16-19, 09:13 AM
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Help with wiring question Safewatch Pro 3000

Hello all! I'm new here and looking for a little help with an existing system in a home that we just purchased....It's an older ADT Safewatch Pro 3000 system. (Photos attached)

I figured out how to get power to the unit and change my master code via the power of the internet but I'm unsure about a wiring issue. I would greatly appreciate a little guidance here if possible, please.

The keypad lists all zones and the one that is not working is zone 4. The system itself will "ready" but zone 4, the rear doors, don't chime or trip the alarm. I noticed on the panel that there is a "jumper" across slots 13 & 14 which appear to be zone 4 based on the labeling inside the panel. (photo attached of jumper)

Inside this panel is a wire that isn't attached to the panel and I am assuming it's zone 4. I plan on confirming this via a wire tracer. You can see this loose wire in one of the attached photos.

If this wire is in fact zone 4, is this simply a matter of removing the jumper and wiring this loose wire into slots 13 & 14 on the board? If so, do I need to worry about the polarity? Thanks again for helping out and I apologize if my terminology is wrong or misleading. I’m learning as I go. I also apologize for sideways photos. Thanks!!
 
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Last edited by Clint Ware; 09-16-19 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 09-16-19, 10:36 AM
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Below is a link to a manual.
Your wiring diagram is on Page 87, I think!!!
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/11...page=87#manual

Could be that there was a problem with that zone and they shorted it out.
Remove one side of the jumper if the alarm goes off then you know the main board is OK.
Then measure across the two wired you think is Zone 4.
Should be 200 ohms with the door closed, I think!!!
Have someone open the door to see if the circuit opens.

Best to call the alarm company first to let them know you will be working on the system if it is monitored.

Often with door sensors it is just the magnet set into the door has fallen out.
 
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Old 09-16-19, 11:00 AM
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manden, thank you for your reply. The system is not monitored as of right now. It's just being used as a local alarm.

You are 100% correct on the magnet falling out. I checked the top of the door and sure enough there is just a hole there....no magnet. I assume the previous owners just decided to not worry about replacing the magnet and simply skip zone 4 by using the jumper.

I will find another magnet to for testing purposes. Will a general small house hold magnet of any kind work to close the loop for testing? Thank you.
 
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Old 09-16-19, 12:16 PM
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Any decent magnet should work for testing.

You are welcome and hopefully that is all that is needed.
Most alarm companies will carry replacement magnets.
 
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Old 09-16-19, 05:52 PM
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Manden, good job on pointing out what to look for.

One small correction: The resistor that bridges Terminals 13 & 14 on the Control Panel is 2000 (2K) Ohms, not 200. I assume that was a typo.

@Clint Ware, the control panel needs to see that 2K resistance in the Zone 4 loop when you reconnect it, so be sure there is a 2K resistor soldered or crimped to one of the loop wires you reconnect.

There is no polarity to worry about when connecting a zone loop, but I always land the resistor on the COM terminal. It will work either way, but landing the 2K Resistor on COM supervises the loop against ground-faulting; i.e., if the wire is pinched against an air duct or something and shorts to ground, then the loop will fault and let you know that something needs attention.

EDIT: Took a closer look at your pictures and I see the disconnected loop wires already have a 2K Resistor in line, so you have that covered.
 
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Old 09-17-19, 07:23 AM
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ChosunOne & Manden, thanks for your replies. Before starting my test, I located a magnet and performed a function test on zone 1 to make sure it would work for my zone 4 testing.....it was successful in acting just like the one mounted inside top of door. Here's what unfolded:

1) I confirmed that the loose wire was zone 4 (the rear doors). So it is not attached to the panel in the zone 4 slot which is 13 & 14.

2) I removed the jumper between 13 & 14 and the keypad did beep.

3) I attached the zone 4 wire to the panel in slots 13 & 14. The keypad was not ready to arm at this point.

4) I walked to the sensor of zone 4 with my magnet and simulated a door closed and then opening. It did not trip the alarm.....no beeps.

5) I tried reversing the wires in 13 & 14 just to make sure it wasn't a polarity issue....which I knew wasn't the case as advised by you already. This did not help the problem.

6) I removed the zone 4 wire from the panel and replaced it with the jumper that was previously there. The system went back to ready mode.

I was afraid of prying out the zone 4 recessed sensor to check it out as I thought I might pull some wires or something. Could this be an issue with the sensor inside the top of door jamb? Any other ideas maybe? I sincerely appreciate your help with this. Thank you.

Edit: I noticed that the zone 4 wire seems to be the only one using the black/red wire combo versus the yellow/green. Is it possible that the wrong two wires were wired to panel? I know that sounds dumb as any installer would've known what they were doing but just throwing that out there.
 
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Old 09-17-19, 05:39 PM
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There is generally enough wire left in the wall void to allow the contact to be removed and replaced. It is possible that the field wiring between this door and the panel may be damaged. There could also possibly be another opening on this same loop.

Pulling the contact out and twisting the pair of wires together is pretty much an acid test. If the zone closes, then the contact is bad. If it doesn't, then the wiring between may be damaged.
 
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Old 09-17-19, 06:58 PM
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Thanks MrRonFL. I believe I have found my problem. I pulled out what I thought would be a wired sensor from the top of the door jamb and outcomes a magnet. (See photo) This seems to be the same piece that is in the top of my other doors.

Next, I look into the hole and see what appear to be the wires that run to the panel. (See photo) They are not connected to anything. Shouldn’t these be attached to a sensor?

My next step will be to try and fish these out of the hole.

Can someone please point me in the direction of what I need to order to attach these wires to? Thanks for your help, again.
 
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Old 09-17-19, 07:20 PM
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Bam! I fished out the wires and was able to successfully test that loop does open and close by touching the red and black wires!! I just to need to locate a replacement sensor. I'll do some "google-fu" but would appreciate some help if someone is willing. You can see my photos above to show the magnet end that I need a sensor for. Thanks again to everyone who has contributed to my dilemma.
 
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Old 09-17-19, 08:12 PM
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This is a contact on eBay that is probably what you need. This switch is 3/8 inch in diameter, but occasionally an installer will use one with a 3/4" flange on the end, to make it easier to replace or check the wiring. So look for the size that fits the hole in your door frame. I don't always buy my stuff off eBay, but they tend to have the best picture arrays so you can see what you're buying.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-3-8...C/171686674174

This is for 10 switches/contacts, but you can probably shop around and find a single switch.
 
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Old 09-19-19, 05:54 AM
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I wanted to take a moment and thank everyone who helped me on my project. As of last night, I am up and running on all zones! Found a local company who simply gave me the sensors at no cost. I plan on taking my monitoring business to them for their kind gesture when the time comes.

Anyway, thanks again for helping me and thanks to this forum as a whole for making it easy to find good help!!
 
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