Zone 5 Trouble light On. Smoke Detector
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Zone 5 Trouble light On. Smoke Detector
Hello,
Newbie here. Saw a trouble light on zone 5 which indicates its a Smoke Detector Trouble. What can I do to check and resolve the problem? Its a DSC 1550 Model.
Thank you.
Newbie here. Saw a trouble light on zone 5 which indicates its a Smoke Detector Trouble. What can I do to check and resolve the problem? Its a DSC 1550 Model.
Thank you.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
Usually a trouble in a smoke detector circuit is an open circuit or loss of 12v.
Could be a head not on all the way or one gone bad.
How many smoke detectors are on the system ?
Can you remove one and give us the model number off the back.
If you have a monitored system.... call it in on service/test when working on the system.
Usually a trouble in a smoke detector circuit is an open circuit or loss of 12v.
Could be a head not on all the way or one gone bad.
How many smoke detectors are on the system ?
Can you remove one and give us the model number off the back.
If you have a monitored system.... call it in on service/test when working on the system.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Hi Pete,
There are 3 smoke detectors in the house. 2 Upstairs and 1 downstairs. When I hit *2 I see a Zone 5 Trouble code on. We purchased the house and this system has not been in use since the first owner. So I defaulted it and then fixed the first trouble code using a new battery. Now I am stuck with the only trouble code which is zone 5.
Luckily they had not locked the installer code. So I then reset the access codes.
The system is not monitored. This house was built in 1995. I will upload a picture of the back of all 3 sometime today.
Thank you for your response Pete.
There are 3 smoke detectors in the house. 2 Upstairs and 1 downstairs. When I hit *2 I see a Zone 5 Trouble code on. We purchased the house and this system has not been in use since the first owner. So I defaulted it and then fixed the first trouble code using a new battery. Now I am stuck with the only trouble code which is zone 5.
Luckily they had not locked the installer code. So I then reset the access codes.
The system is not monitored. This house was built in 1995. I will upload a picture of the back of all 3 sometime today.
Thank you for your response Pete.
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
That's a standard 120v smoke with battery backup. That's not going to be connected to the alarm system.
When you defaulted the system, did you reprogram the zones to match what your actual connected zones are supposed to be? Normally, on default, one 6 is the one that defaults to being a fire zone.
When you defaulted the system, did you reprogram the zones to match what your actual connected zones are supposed to be? Normally, on default, one 6 is the one that defaults to being a fire zone.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
When I defaulted the system I put the zones based on the previous owners notes. But there was no firezone. Let me upload a picture of the notes. I am new to this so please bear with me.
I typed in *8 installer code and then the ZOne Number(1-6) and then a access code for the zone. How do I make zone 6 the fire zone?
I have uploaded a picture of the notes on the panel that the previous owner left.
Thank you Mr Ron.
I typed in *8 installer code and then the ZOne Number(1-6) and then a access code for the zone. How do I make zone 6 the fire zone?
I have uploaded a picture of the notes on the panel that the previous owner left.
Thank you Mr Ron.
#7
Forum Topic Moderator
Since you don't have smokes that are intended to be, or capable of, being connected to the security system, you _can't_ make zone 6 a fire zone. Based on the list in the photo, you have 1 entry exit zone, one motion detector zone, and the rest are all basic perimeter instant zones.
You may have misunderstood how to set the zone configuration, The correct keystrokes should have been:
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
11 (go to zone programming location)
00 01 03 01 01 01 (set all 6 zones to match their described function)
# # (exit programming)
Installer manual: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=13589
You may have misunderstood how to set the zone configuration, The correct keystrokes should have been:
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
11 (go to zone programming location)
00 01 03 01 01 01 (set all 6 zones to match their described function)
# # (exit programming)
Installer manual: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=13589
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok so I restarted the system. Then typed the key strokes you mentioned. The trouble light has gone. Now how do I arm the system? All Zone lights are on but the other (Arm. Ready) lights are not on. Can you please tell me what I need to do?
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Are these zone definitions ? (00 01 03 01 01 01)
I went into programming *8 1500 and then typed 11
then I just pressed the number "00 01 03 01 01 01"
is that right? followed by ## to exit programming
I went into programming *8 1500 and then typed 11
then I just pressed the number "00 01 03 01 01 01"
is that right? followed by ## to exit programming
#12
Forum Topic Moderator
...<sigh>
No, a PC1555 is radically different from a PC 1550
This is the correct manual: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=13604
The correct keystrokes for a 1555
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
001
01 03 05 03 03 03 00 00
##
No, a PC1555 is radically different from a PC 1550
This is the correct manual: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=13604
The correct keystrokes for a 1555
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
001
01 03 05 03 03 03 00 00
##
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you Mr Ron. Sorry for the confusion. I put in the key strokes. Now I only see all the zone lights on but none of the other lights on(Its not Armed, Ready). Is there anything else I need to do? I did check all the sensors, one of the previous owners had changed the door and he did not put the opposite sensor in the door for the one in door frame. Could that be a reason the system is not going to ready state?
#14
Forum Topic Moderator
Assuming that all of the zones are actually closed, I'm going to hazard a guess that the original installer (like many DSC installers) disabled the EOL resistor requirement.
Try this:
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
014
Press 1 to turn ON option 1
Press ## to exit programming
The actual user manual might help to understand what the indicators are telling you: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=12404
Try this:
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
014
Press 1 to turn ON option 1
Press ## to exit programming
The actual user manual might help to understand what the indicators are telling you: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=12404
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
There are no EOL resistors that I see when I open the box. I am assuming that he disabled it. Does it get enabled by default when you default the system 1550? Will try the key strokes and keep you informed. Happy Thanksgiving to you.
#18
Forum Topic Moderator
Look at the openings indicated on your list. Odds are, some of them are simply open, and some have missing magnets, and/or damaged switches. There is a small chance that the actual wires are damaged, but that is usually on the low end of things.
It sounds like this system may have been disused for a while. You can verity that the zone inputs are working by putting a simple wire jumper from the zone input terminal to common (on the motherboard).
Beyond that, troubleshooting the field wiring and contacts is pretty much a "brute force" process. A continuity test from a meter can help to narrow things down, but there's no shortcut to simply examining the openings.
It sounds like this system may have been disused for a while. You can verity that the zone inputs are working by putting a simple wire jumper from the zone input terminal to common (on the motherboard).
Beyond that, troubleshooting the field wiring and contacts is pretty much a "brute force" process. A continuity test from a meter can help to narrow things down, but there's no shortcut to simply examining the openings.
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
THanks Ron, I was able to get the ready light on by bypassing all the zones. I will try the process you mentioned to jump the zone input to the common. Do I just put a wire between those 2?
I have a multimeter. Just do a continuity test between the 2 wires?
But atleast I know that the system can be armed now. Will see how I can figure out which zone is open. I bypassed zones individually but the system did not go into ready status...then i just bypassed all and it went to ready status
I have a multimeter. Just do a continuity test between the 2 wires?
But atleast I know that the system can be armed now. Will see how I can figure out which zone is open. I bypassed zones individually but the system did not go into ready status...then i just bypassed all and it went to ready status
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok so I took a multimeter and checked for continuity for all zones. (took the common and the specific zone terminal) if the voltage changed continuity was established.
Zone 1 and Zone 4 are not showing any signal. So for zone 1 the door was replaced but they forgot to put a opposite magnet. So I connected zone 1 for continuity and then went downstairs and put a magnet to close the circuit. Asked a family member to check if the voltage went up. It did.
So the question is if all zones except 1(will get a small magnet later for a fix) and 4 are not working if I bypass them will the system go into ready state? I tried to bypass 1 and 4 but the system did not go to into ready state. How do I exclude 1 and 4 for now so I arm the system for the remaining zones till I get zone 1 and 4 done. I care more about zone 1 then zone 4 actually.
Zone 1 and Zone 4 are not showing any signal. So for zone 1 the door was replaced but they forgot to put a opposite magnet. So I connected zone 1 for continuity and then went downstairs and put a magnet to close the circuit. Asked a family member to check if the voltage went up. It did.
So the question is if all zones except 1(will get a small magnet later for a fix) and 4 are not working if I bypass them will the system go into ready state? I tried to bypass 1 and 4 but the system did not go to into ready state. How do I exclude 1 and 4 for now so I arm the system for the remaining zones till I get zone 1 and 4 done. I care more about zone 1 then zone 4 actually.
#21
Forum Topic Moderator
To bypass an open zone: Enter [✱][1][Zone(s) to be bypassed]. Enter the zone(s) as a 2-digit number from 01 to 32. As each zone is bypassed, the corresponding zone light will turn ON. If a zone is bypassed by mistake, enter that zone number again; the zone light will turn OFF, indicating that the zone is not bypassed. Press [#] to return to the Ready state.
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I had to bypass all zones to get the ready light on. Seems like the wires are connected in some kind of a loop. I can provide more pictures if that will help. There are T shaped kind of connectors. Also Zone 4 had TLM which I currently dont have....How can I disable that. Will add more pictures of the panel.
#23
Forum Topic Moderator
First, make sure you are clear if you are discussing what the _zone_ indications are, OR if you are discussing what is displayed when you press *2 for trouble display.
These systems default to the telephone line monitor and communicator enabled.
To disable those features:
*8 [installer code]
015
Press 7 to turn OFF that option
Press # (just once to save the change without exiting programming)
380
Press 1 to turn OFF the communicator option
Press ## to save that change and exit programming.
An image of the wiring for your mother board may be helpful. Again, not knowing the history of this system, we are reliant on your descriptions and information to help you. Have you read through the manuals? Do you have any understanding of basic circuit wiring?
These systems default to the telephone line monitor and communicator enabled.
To disable those features:
*8 [installer code]
015
Press 7 to turn OFF that option
Press # (just once to save the change without exiting programming)
380
Press 1 to turn OFF the communicator option
Press ## to save that change and exit programming.
An image of the wiring for your mother board may be helpful. Again, not knowing the history of this system, we are reliant on your descriptions and information to help you. Have you read through the manuals? Do you have any understanding of basic circuit wiring?
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Hi Ron,
I have read through the manuals before I defaulted the board. However, I did not understand the programming zone section. After you sent me the manual for the 1550 I did read it end to end. As far as the basic circuit wiring for the current method that the installer used I am not sure but it seems its looped.
I have read through the manuals before I defaulted the board. However, I did not understand the programming zone section. After you sent me the manual for the 1550 I did read it end to end. As far as the basic circuit wiring for the current method that the installer used I am not sure but it seems its looped.
#25
Forum Topic Moderator
Please ignore the manual for the PC1550. It's the wrong one for your system, if, as you described that you have a PC1555 instead.
There are two basic ways that the zone wires can be installed.
The one I _hope_ you have is where a pair of wires runs out to each opening, and are combined into their zone groupings by tying them together in the system enclosure. This is much easier to troubleshoot, because you can test each individual pair.
The worst case is if they ran just a single pair out for each zone, and looped them in and out of the contacts at each individual opening. This will work, but, it is a horror show to troubleshoot, and if there is a wire break inside a wall, you are in trouble.
There are two basic ways that the zone wires can be installed.
The one I _hope_ you have is where a pair of wires runs out to each opening, and are combined into their zone groupings by tying them together in the system enclosure. This is much easier to troubleshoot, because you can test each individual pair.
The worst case is if they ran just a single pair out for each zone, and looped them in and out of the contacts at each individual opening. This will work, but, it is a horror show to troubleshoot, and if there is a wire break inside a wall, you are in trouble.
#26
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
"You can verity that the zone inputs are working by putting a simple wire jumper from the zone input terminal to common (on the motherboard)."
Do I need to remove the actual zones wires before jumping the zone and the common?
Do I need to remove the actual zones wires before jumping the zone and the common?
#28
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok so I finally got it to ready mode. I had to turn off the EOL which I had not done(Infact I had misunderstood your directions (Section 12, Option 5 should be ON for EOL to be considered OFF)...
I have zone 1 open (Which I have bypassed) which is as expected. Some of the wires were left outside in the panel so I checked if they had continuity and put them in the specific zones. The multi meter helped. I have to fix the zone1 which is missing a magnet. For now I have bypassed it.
How do I get a chime on when the alarm system is armed?
Thank you so much Ron.
I have zone 1 open (Which I have bypassed) which is as expected. Some of the wires were left outside in the panel so I checked if they had continuity and put them in the specific zones. The multi meter helped. I have to fix the zone1 which is missing a magnet. For now I have bypassed it.
How do I get a chime on when the alarm system is armed?
Thank you so much Ron.
#29
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
One quick question. I have noticed that when I try to test the system by opening the garage entry door(delay door) when the system is armed the alarm does not sound. But if I arm the system and open the Main door (Delay door) the alarm sounds. How do these delay doors function?
Say I enter the house when the system is armed and I cross the motion sensor only will it then sound the alarm? I would like that if a delay door is opened and a certain time(say 30 sec) has passed since the door was opened but the system is not disarmed and/or armed again that the alarm sounds.
thank you Ron.
Say I enter the house when the system is armed and I cross the motion sensor only will it then sound the alarm? I would like that if a delay door is opened and a certain time(say 30 sec) has passed since the door was opened but the system is not disarmed and/or armed again that the alarm sounds.
thank you Ron.
#30
Forum Topic Moderator
Zone behavior is based on how the zone input is programmed.
Based on your photo of your zone list, the two doors are the same zone (Zone 1). They should work identically. Could it be that the contact on the garage door is stuck in the closed position?
As far as the entry delay, that is, in fact, how it's supposed to work. That said, since you defaulted, these systems default to a fairly lengthy exit delay (120 seconds) and a 30 second entry delay. You may be testing those doors before the arming delay runs out.
Motions are instant _unless_ a delay zone is opened _first_. Then, they follow the entry delay time.
Based on your photo of your zone list, the two doors are the same zone (Zone 1). They should work identically. Could it be that the contact on the garage door is stuck in the closed position?
As far as the entry delay, that is, in fact, how it's supposed to work. That said, since you defaulted, these systems default to a fairly lengthy exit delay (120 seconds) and a 30 second entry delay. You may be testing those doors before the arming delay runs out.
Motions are instant _unless_ a delay zone is opened _first_. Then, they follow the entry delay time.
#31
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you Ron. I was pressing *9 and then the access code. I instead did the *1 and it worked. I was indeed testing the doors before the arming delay runs out....
What guage wire is used to connect these sensors to the panel? I have a patio door from which the sensor has been removed and would like to include it in the alarm system. Not sure why they removed it.
What guage wire is used to connect these sensors to the panel? I have a patio door from which the sensor has been removed and would like to include it in the alarm system. Not sure why they removed it.
#33
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
ok so a 2 conductor 22 guage wire. Ok will try to get that one...I armed the system tonight using a *9 access code followed by a *1. Then a family member walked past the motion sensor..No alarm was raised but the ting sound came up....It was like a long ting sound ....Is that a safety mechanism for night time arming?
#36
Forum Topic Moderator
If you haven't yet done so, it' probably a good idea to test the siren. If you take the siren wires off at the motherboard, and touch them to the battery terminals, do you get any sound?
If you did get an alarm, you would have an alarm memory for the zone that tripped.
If you did get an alarm, you would have an alarm memory for the zone that tripped.
#37
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
If I arm the system with *9(access code) and then *1. If I walk past the motion sensor it wont sound the alarm but it does make the sound. Mind you I am indoors and have not opened any doors after the delay is over. If I do open the doors the siren goes off.
It's like no one opened the doors but the motion sensor was not bypassed and hence its getting an alarm sound. I connected the alarm probes to the battery and the siren came on,.
It's like no one opened the doors but the motion sensor was not bypassed and hence its getting an alarm sound. I connected the alarm probes to the battery and the siren came on,.
#38
Forum Topic Moderator
If it's programmed as an interior zone, the motion shouldn't trigger any sound, unless you are going into an actual alarm state. With all of the prior fumbling about, I'm stating to wonder if you have the zone type set correctly.
If you armed with *9 (no entry delay) and then pressed *1 reactivating the motion, once the arming delay is over, crossing the motion should trigger alarm audibles.
If you armed with *9 (no entry delay) and then pressed *1 reactivating the motion, once the arming delay is over, crossing the motion should trigger alarm audibles.
#39
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 50
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I can try to reprogram...using the following process and will then test the process.
Any other settings that make a low audible sound instead of the main siren when the motion sensor is activated with the *9 access code *1 ...(I am still indoors)
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
11 (go to zone programming location)
00 01 03 01 01 01 (set all 6 zones to match their described function)
# # (exit programming)
Any other settings that make a low audible sound instead of the main siren when the motion sensor is activated with the *9 access code *1 ...(I am still indoors)
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
11 (go to zone programming location)
00 01 03 01 01 01 (set all 6 zones to match their described function)
# # (exit programming)
#40
Forum Topic Moderator
Previously, you said that your system is actually a PC-1555, if that is accueate (the model number should be on the wiring diagram on the system door, and on the main IC chip in the middle of the board); then the correct programming as provided earlier:
No, a PC1555 is radically different from a PC 1550
This is the correct manual: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=13604
The correct keystrokes for a 1555
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
001
01 03 05 03 03 03 00 00
##
We need to verify your system model. If you are programming from the wrong set of instructions, it can create all kinds of unintended glitches.
This is the correct manual: https://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=13604
The correct keystrokes for a 1555
*8 [installer code] (go to program)
001
01 03 05 03 03 03 00 00
##