My DSC panel keeps indicating that the garage door remains open when it's not.
The lower half of the garage door have recently been replaced after an incident.
Your garage door (what kind?) has a magnetic reed contact/switch that is most often located on the floor at/near the bottom of the door, left or right corner, but sometimes is located adjacent to either side, or above the top of the door. Where is yours located?
The contact/switch works with a magnet located adjacent. When the door opens, it removes the magnet from its position next to the contact. The contact senses the loss of magnetic field, and changes from "closed" to "open". If the magnet is missing, the contact will never "see" a "closed" condition.
The most likely cause of your problem is a magnet that was installed on the part of the door that is now gone. If you can post a picture of your contact, we can probably tell you what replacement model to install on your new door section.
It would be helpful to take a picture of how the door & contact are oriented. There are several different ways to install door contacts, and spacing & alignment is critical.
The most likely cause of your problem is a magnet that was installed on the part of the door that is now gone. If you can post a picture of your contact, we can probably tell you what replacement model to install on your new door section. It would be helpful to take a picture of how the door & contact are oriented. There are several different ways to install door contacts, and spacing & alignment is critical.
Thanks. I don't know what the contact looks like, so I can't take a photo.
Would it look something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Cont.../dp/B07ZBT28L8
We have a two-car garage, so I compared with the working side and there was nothing on the working side that looked like the Amazon product.
From what I can see, the two doors looked the same to me in terms of any appendages or gadgets sitting next to them.
What should I do next?
As I said, there are several different ways, and several different models of contacts used to protect overhead garage doors in homes. This is even before we know if it's hardwired or wireless. This is why I asked for a picture, rather than building an "If-Then Logic Tree" to try to describe all possibilities.
I personally like to use an ordinary door contact (e.g. Sentrol 1085) with an oversize magnet, mounted on the top of the OHD, where it's out of harm's way. It's possible your door is done that way, which would explain why you're having trouble locating your OHD contact; but most installers prefer putting them on the floor or tracks. It's also possible that the contact is buried in the concrete (if applicable) under one end of the OHD.
If it's a wired (as opposed to wireless) contact, look for wires at the OHDs. Again: Right now we don't even know if your garage is finished or unfinished. Wires to sensors are easy to spot in an unfinished garage--IF the sensor is hardwired. It might help if we know what zone number we're looking at: Numbers higher than 8 are more often (not always) wireless. It might help to know the model DSC Panel you have, and whether you have wireless capability.
Alarm systems, by their nature, are all custom installations. There is no "One Size Fits All", and the more information we have, the more likely we'll be able to help. The OHD is on the system, so there is a contact/sensor there somewhere. If you still can't find it, then pictures of the OHDs themselves might help.
Upon another closer inspection, I think I found the culprit.
A magnetic coin is attached to the side of the door. (photo below)
On the recently repaired side, the coin doesn't exactly face the sensor. It's sitting a couple of inched higher than the sensor.
Are these triggers generic, or do I have to match them to the sensor?
Any magnet of similar strength will work. Given that the magnet is located near a joint, it may be easier to move the switch to line up with the magnet, than vice versa.
That's not really a coin. It's a drilled in magnet. The switch is probably drilled in too.
Not the easiest of devices to work with there. They both install in a 3/4" hole.
That's not really a coin. It's a drilled in magnet. The switch is probably drilled in too. Not the easiest of devices to work with there. They both install in a 3/4" hole.
The switch is definitely drilled in. I see its wiring buried in the wall.
Can't tell about the trigger, but it's so well attached to the side that I couldn't dislodge it. Maybe it's drilled in too.
Regardless, can I use any magnetic coin with a 3M tape on one side instead? It will take another visit from a repairman with added costs to drill in a magnet.
It would work. There are plenty of flat magnet discs available, BUT, a garage door is a high vibration location. If you can get one with a center screw hole so you can shoot a self tapping screw in to keep it in place, in addition to adhesive, you will get less potential for future aggravation.
I suspect that when your door was repaired, the replacement panel was a slightly different height than the original.
You can access the magnet to put a screw thru in it when the door is up or just around the top bend.
Magnets have different poles and directional properties.
The magnet that is in the door focuses its strength towards the end allowing for a large gap between it and the switch. The round type magnets are different. I'd recommend trying it with a thin self stick pad first to make sure you have the necessary clearance with the door up and it's strong enough to activate the switch.
I have a circa 2003 Concord 4 that won't see my new ATP1000.
I have two existing FTP1000 touchpads and I purchased the ATP1000 on ebay so I can upgrade one to do some programming. I have the installer and dealer codes.
I powered down the system and disconnect the battery.
Switched out the FTP for the ATP and powered it back on.
The new ATP powers up, but is not recognized as a new bus device. I powered up and down multiple times and verified the wiring is correct.
I can however use 8-INSTCODE-02 to enter service touchpad mode, then 8-INSTCODE-01 to scan bus devices and it becomes useable, but only as a service touchpad.
I can get into programming, but I would like to leave the new keypad in place, but it beeps every few minutes to remind me that a "Service Touchpad is Active"
Here is what I've tried so far:
Changing the device ID of the old keypad to the new one, but it didn't let me.
Verified that the wiring to the keypad is not connected to the service port in the panel.
Thought I had a bus # conflict so I went into the bus numbering of the new keypad (holding D+6) and it showed address 250. I changed it to 005 and saved it but still didn't help. Strange thing is, every time I go back into the bus# it's back at 250. Could that be the issue?
This ATP1000 looks fairly new. Are there potential compatibility issues with older panels and newer keypads?
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_3283_f70339620d6a48da78553ad011f985d3301a5c3e.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_3284_dcbb2c5da5d1245cdce6aa98ed39ca039d0222c6.jpg[/img]
y suggestions are appreciated.
Need to replace 2 old keypads K4392V2 - M6983, with new ones, for VISTA-20P/PS VISTA-15P SERIES. Kindly assist with the following :
1. New compatible keypads models, and where to buy.
2. Removing the current old keypads - How to?
3. Installing the new keypads.
4. Programming the new keypads.
02-07-23, 05:50 PM
Garage door remains "zone open" after dent repair
